4th gen Traction Bars are ready!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
4th gen Traction Bars are ready!
Wheel hop doesn’t just slow you down, it’s very hard on the drivetrain. My transmission recently had to be rebuilt due to a 3rd gear shift after wheelhopping through 2nd, and I was determined not to put the car back on the road without these bars.
Traction bars help minimize control arm movement and keep pressure down on the tires. When you floor it down low or launch hard, the arms move rearward, which causes the majority of wheelhop. These bars link the control arms to the chassis, using the existing tow hook bolt points as a mounting point.
For some people solid motor mounts have helped wheelhop, but didn’t cut it for me. Even with hard polyurethane motor mounts, I still got bad wheel hop. They are certainly better than mushy soft stock motor mounts, but do nothing for rearward deflection of the control arms, which is precisely what these traction bars are designed for.
To put things into perspective, even with a VQ35 and headers in my 2900 lbs 95, I can almost completely floor it in 1st gear from a dig and get zero wheelhop, just clean wheelspin. You can almost feel the transmission letting out a sigh of relief.
They were also tested on a 97 SE 5-speed with stock (and very tired) original motor mounts. Even on that car they got rid of 95% of the wheelhop and would certainly work even better if that car had ES bushings.
The geometry of the front suspension is ideal with these on, as they mount right next to the existing control arm brace running across the underside of the car, link both LCA’s together, which are then linked to the chassis on both sides of the radiator support where the tow hooks used to be.
In addition to greatly reducing (if not completely getting rid of) wheelhop, the bars provide increased stability and really firm up the front end. The car basically feels more solid, especially when taking turns, and none of the cars these were tested on had front strut bars, which would certainly complete the package very well.
Where these really shine is at the track, whether on street tires or with slicks, not only can you run the car as hard as you would when normally getting wheel hop, without it slowing you down and beating the hell out of your drivetrain, but the results are much more consistent, which is a plus for bracket racing.
Slicks are wheelhop free but what the bars do for them is almost as significant as what they do for street tires. Just preventing the LCA's from moving makes a significant difference, and the chances of fudging a launch from dropping the clutch too high decrease alot. My best 60 foot so far is 1.75, and I would not be surprised if I pulled a high 1.6 before the end of the summer.
When using slicks you want to preload them towards the front, and take a more conservative stance on the street.
Installation is quite easy, and takes about 20-30 minutes.
The final design is a good deal more simple than the original version, which had a crossmember run under the radiator support, and were similar to the Z10 bars they make for civics (http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/MODATRB).
They did not work as good as the current design, because the mounting points were too far towards the exterior on the control arms, whereas the final design has them at a nearly perfect 90 degree angle from the radiator support, and the LCA mounting point is very close to the pivot, effectively reducing any horizontal movement.
These bars do not limit steering travel, are located too far from your tires to rub when you turn and they bolt to factory mounting points, no need for welding, drilling, ect. Bolt-on. I drive with mine on all the time, and set them a little more aggressive for the track. It definately rides more firm, but it’s not uncomfortable. You will feel it on harsh roads and love it on good ones.
The tubing is 3/16’’ thick, all bolts are 1/2’’ and the spherical bearings are zinc plated (gold). The bars and brackets are gloss black, and everything else (bolts, rod ends, ect.) is chrome or gold. For those concerned about weight, the entire set weights less than 10 pounds.
They fit 95-99 maximas and may be suitable for 00-03’s since we use the same platform but I will have to test them. If there is enough interest I may make some for 3rd gens too.
The sets are designed for 5-speeds, and I am 90% sure they WILL NOT fit on automatics.
Price is 199.00$US Shipped anywhere in the US, and 219.00$CND shipped for fellow Canadians.
That is the cheapest I have seen for any FWD traction bar system. The Comp. Engineering set goes for 469$ + shipping for civics, the z10 go for 375$-605$ (see above), the FR set is 335$, and the ones they make for Sentras are 209$+ shipping. Considering how much more than others we usually pay for our aftermarket, pricing is very fair.
The first 10 sets will go for 179.00$US shipped.
I prefer paypal (Dexter1647@hotmail.com), you can just put ‘Traction bars’ in the subject line.
Any questions, please feel free to ask them via e-mail, PM, whatever suits you best.
Traction bars help minimize control arm movement and keep pressure down on the tires. When you floor it down low or launch hard, the arms move rearward, which causes the majority of wheelhop. These bars link the control arms to the chassis, using the existing tow hook bolt points as a mounting point.
For some people solid motor mounts have helped wheelhop, but didn’t cut it for me. Even with hard polyurethane motor mounts, I still got bad wheel hop. They are certainly better than mushy soft stock motor mounts, but do nothing for rearward deflection of the control arms, which is precisely what these traction bars are designed for.
To put things into perspective, even with a VQ35 and headers in my 2900 lbs 95, I can almost completely floor it in 1st gear from a dig and get zero wheelhop, just clean wheelspin. You can almost feel the transmission letting out a sigh of relief.
They were also tested on a 97 SE 5-speed with stock (and very tired) original motor mounts. Even on that car they got rid of 95% of the wheelhop and would certainly work even better if that car had ES bushings.
The geometry of the front suspension is ideal with these on, as they mount right next to the existing control arm brace running across the underside of the car, link both LCA’s together, which are then linked to the chassis on both sides of the radiator support where the tow hooks used to be.
In addition to greatly reducing (if not completely getting rid of) wheelhop, the bars provide increased stability and really firm up the front end. The car basically feels more solid, especially when taking turns, and none of the cars these were tested on had front strut bars, which would certainly complete the package very well.
Where these really shine is at the track, whether on street tires or with slicks, not only can you run the car as hard as you would when normally getting wheel hop, without it slowing you down and beating the hell out of your drivetrain, but the results are much more consistent, which is a plus for bracket racing.
Slicks are wheelhop free but what the bars do for them is almost as significant as what they do for street tires. Just preventing the LCA's from moving makes a significant difference, and the chances of fudging a launch from dropping the clutch too high decrease alot. My best 60 foot so far is 1.75, and I would not be surprised if I pulled a high 1.6 before the end of the summer.
When using slicks you want to preload them towards the front, and take a more conservative stance on the street.
Installation is quite easy, and takes about 20-30 minutes.
The final design is a good deal more simple than the original version, which had a crossmember run under the radiator support, and were similar to the Z10 bars they make for civics (http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/MODATRB).
They did not work as good as the current design, because the mounting points were too far towards the exterior on the control arms, whereas the final design has them at a nearly perfect 90 degree angle from the radiator support, and the LCA mounting point is very close to the pivot, effectively reducing any horizontal movement.
These bars do not limit steering travel, are located too far from your tires to rub when you turn and they bolt to factory mounting points, no need for welding, drilling, ect. Bolt-on. I drive with mine on all the time, and set them a little more aggressive for the track. It definately rides more firm, but it’s not uncomfortable. You will feel it on harsh roads and love it on good ones.
The tubing is 3/16’’ thick, all bolts are 1/2’’ and the spherical bearings are zinc plated (gold). The bars and brackets are gloss black, and everything else (bolts, rod ends, ect.) is chrome or gold. For those concerned about weight, the entire set weights less than 10 pounds.
They fit 95-99 maximas and may be suitable for 00-03’s since we use the same platform but I will have to test them. If there is enough interest I may make some for 3rd gens too.
The sets are designed for 5-speeds, and I am 90% sure they WILL NOT fit on automatics.
Price is 199.00$US Shipped anywhere in the US, and 219.00$CND shipped for fellow Canadians.
That is the cheapest I have seen for any FWD traction bar system. The Comp. Engineering set goes for 469$ + shipping for civics, the z10 go for 375$-605$ (see above), the FR set is 335$, and the ones they make for Sentras are 209$+ shipping. Considering how much more than others we usually pay for our aftermarket, pricing is very fair.
The first 10 sets will go for 179.00$US shipped.
I prefer paypal (Dexter1647@hotmail.com), you can just put ‘Traction bars’ in the subject line.
Any questions, please feel free to ask them via e-mail, PM, whatever suits you best.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Yes, pictures will be coming in as soon as I can get them online.
Paypal is quite safe and practical, I always use it, but if you have any other payment option suggestions, please feel free to offer them.
Paypal is quite safe and practical, I always use it, but if you have any other payment option suggestions, please feel free to offer them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
Can these be used with the BlehmCo Lower Tie Bar
well man congratas an orger who follows through a rare thing these days. I am very intrested nto sure if i want to buy some right away but i want to other org members opinions. In any case gooo jclaw
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Originally Posted by Jime
JClaw are you thinking about going to the Sep 3 event at Sanair?
Not sure yet but I am working on it. Would like to hookup and see your traction bars.
Jim
Not sure yet but I am working on it. Would like to hookup and see your traction bars.
Jim
If that's the case it's the triple crown, but you need to run 12.99 or faster to participate (10,000$ to the winner, 4k runner up, 1.5k semis, ect.).
Unfortunately there is going to be a delay for the pics. I will try to get them on this weekend.
Originally Posted by JClaw
I didn't know you raced in Quebec too. Do you mean the Sept. 11th event? (http://www.sanairracing.net/z_eng/schedule.htm)
If that's the case it's the triple crown, but you need to run 12.99 or faster to participate (10,000$ to the winner, 4k runner up, 1.5k semis, ect.).
Unfortunately there is going to be a delay for the pics, once I can find another computer with another connection. I will try to get them on this weekend.
If that's the case it's the triple crown, but you need to run 12.99 or faster to participate (10,000$ to the winner, 4k runner up, 1.5k semis, ect.).
Unfortunately there is going to be a delay for the pics, once I can find another computer with another connection. I will try to get them on this weekend.
http://www.cscs.ca/
PS You can post the pics on my server if you want. I won't be back until Sun night, going to Grand Bend racing for the weekend.
I can't believe these actually came out. Didn't Cattman once say they were making some?
How many do you plan on producing? I just spent what money I could getting my car to be 'normal' and am low on funds right now. Assuming these work with the stage II LTB, I will buy these as soon as I can. I'm glad they came out.
How many do you plan on producing? I just spent what money I could getting my car to be 'normal' and am low on funds right now. Assuming these work with the stage II LTB, I will buy these as soon as I can. I'm glad they came out.
I'd be in immediately- if:
1) as you say, install is fairly simple (instructions included) (yes, noob wrench here)
2) No issues with LTB-2
Waiting to paypal!! Bring it on! And thanks for the new mod!
Im assuming that this would help with chassis stiffening too, thus a benefit to the track day.
Oh, and a question: How do you adjust them? disconnect 2 points and turn?
1) as you say, install is fairly simple (instructions included) (yes, noob wrench here)
2) No issues with LTB-2
Waiting to paypal!! Bring it on! And thanks for the new mod!
Im assuming that this would help with chassis stiffening too, thus a benefit to the track day.
Oh, and a question: How do you adjust them? disconnect 2 points and turn?
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 52
From: Orange County
Originally Posted by Spaniard
I'd be in immediately- if:
1) as you say, install is fairly simple (instructions included) (yes, noob wrench here)
2) No issues with LTB-2
Waiting to paypal!! Bring it on! And thanks for the new mod!
Im assuming that this would help with chassis stiffening too, thus a benefit to the track day.
Oh, and a question: How do you adjust them? disconnect 2 points and turn?
1) as you say, install is fairly simple (instructions included) (yes, noob wrench here)
2) No issues with LTB-2
Waiting to paypal!! Bring it on! And thanks for the new mod!
Im assuming that this would help with chassis stiffening too, thus a benefit to the track day.
Oh, and a question: How do you adjust them? disconnect 2 points and turn?
I'm in.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Originally Posted by Spaniard
I'd be in immediately- if:
1) as you say, install is fairly simple (instructions included) (yes, noob wrench here)
1) as you say, install is fairly simple (instructions included) (yes, noob wrench here)
Originally Posted by Spaniard
Im assuming that this would help with chassis stiffening too, thus a benefit to the track day.
Oh, and a question: How do you adjust them? disconnect 2 points and turn
Oh, and a question: How do you adjust them? disconnect 2 points and turn
The car does feel more solid, and they are designed for the dragstrip, even though you can leave them on 24/7.
working on getting those pics up
So, wait- this would limit suspension travel in the front, right? Or change the characteristics?
Ive already got a very firm ride (K-sport coils). Would this impact the spring rate/shock rates?
Not that it necessarily would change my purchase, I would probably just install them when I get to the racetrack or the day before. Thanks--
Ive already got a very firm ride (K-sport coils). Would this impact the spring rate/shock rates?
Not that it necessarily would change my purchase, I would probably just install them when I get to the racetrack or the day before. Thanks--
Id like a set too-
But I dont know - looking at the LTB-2 its pretty much taken over the control arms ...
Also, if it drasitically affects suspension... Although now that I think about it, compared to a very tight suspension, the difference might be negligible...
PIX!! PIX!!! PIX!!!!
But I dont know - looking at the LTB-2 its pretty much taken over the control arms ...
Also, if it drasitically affects suspension... Although now that I think about it, compared to a very tight suspension, the difference might be negligible...
PIX!! PIX!!! PIX!!!!
Interested but I don't really get wheel hop with my ES motor mounts. Does straight line traction increase besides the reduction in wheel hop? And if so, how? Yes, pics would be nice.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Originally Posted by Spaniard
So, wait- this would limit suspension travel in the front, right? Or change the characteristics?
Ive already got a very firm ride (K-sport coils). Would this impact the spring rate/shock rates?
Ive already got a very firm ride (K-sport coils). Would this impact the spring rate/shock rates?
What they do is prevent Control Arm deflection (I.e. your control arms moving towards the rear during acceleration), which in itself is not part of the geometry of the front suspension, but rather a side effect of having rubber bushings (I kid you not, you can actually move the control arms back and forth with your hands!).
The control arms will still move how they were intended to, minus the deflection (they use rubber bushings to eliminate chassis vibration, but with the traction bars you get the best of both worlds: no vibrations (like solid motor mounts give) and the equivalent of having solid steel bushings without the vibrations).
Originally Posted by Spaniard
Not that it necessarily would change my purchase, I would probably just install them when I get to the racetrack or the day before. Thanks--
I would not have rebuilt my tranny if I had done these bars 2 weeks earlier.
Here's a low-quality picture of the set (uninstalled):
I have some muuuuuuuch better pictures of them installed and it looks a ton better, but my scanner has been dead for months and I'm not getting the new one until a few weeks from now.
Also note that the final set does not use the control arm brackets shown above.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Edited.
Stainless rod ends used (4 of them, two on each bar):
To be specific it is on slicks that they will really make a difference, because slicks are 100% wheel hop free, yet you can often break them loose due to control arm deflection.
The best way I can explain it is this:
Instead of being like that: V, the slicks will be ||
Stainless rod ends used (4 of them, two on each bar):
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Interested but I don't really get wheel hop with my ES motor mounts. Does straight line traction increase besides the reduction in wheel hop? And if so, how? Yes, pics would be nice.
The best way I can explain it is this:
Instead of being like that: V, the slicks will be ||
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
About 10 inches of ground clearance. The crossmember is lower than them, and they pass just a little above the control arms, bolting vertically to a factory mounting point. They pass quite close to one bolt looming down from the frame but they will never hit.
If I can get 4 other buyers soon enough, the first batch will be ready to leave on Wednesday, July 20th at 5 P.M.
If I can get 4 other buyers soon enough, the first batch will be ready to leave on Wednesday, July 20th at 5 P.M.
I am very interested in these if they can elimiate 95% of wheelhop on a stock se, because that is my biggest problem right now, but one question...So these are adjustable.. Does this increase and decrease the stiffness of the ride, or what exactly is being adjusted?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
The length varies very slightly between a lowered and a stock car. Also, I set mine to "pull" a little forward, you can set yours more conservatively. There is actually very little play in how you adjust them, but there is bound to be slight differences between cars. Total adjustability is 4 inches, but you'll never need anywhere near that much, it's just that I feel better about having more play than not enough.
There is no stiffness really, just a more solid feel going over bumps and such due to adding a (very much needed) link from the control arms to the chassis.
I have a 100% stock SE suspension, not lowered, just like you. The only difference is that I have polyurethane motor mounts, but at the same time, I'm running low 13s trapping at 104 mph in the 1/4 mile, and I don't even have traction issues in 2nd gear, just wheelspin in first.
It seems to make torque steer less violent, too.
There is no stiffness really, just a more solid feel going over bumps and such due to adding a (very much needed) link from the control arms to the chassis.
I have a 100% stock SE suspension, not lowered, just like you. The only difference is that I have polyurethane motor mounts, but at the same time, I'm running low 13s trapping at 104 mph in the 1/4 mile, and I don't even have traction issues in 2nd gear, just wheelspin in first.
It seems to make torque steer less violent, too.
Originally Posted by JClaw
Wheel hop doesn’t just slow you down, it’s very hard on the drivetrain. My transmission recently had to be rebuilt due to a 3rd gear shift after wheelhopping through 2nd, and I was determined not to put the car back on the road without these bars.
Traction bars help minimize control arm movement and keep pressure down on the tires. When you floor it down low or launch hard, the arms move rearward, which causes the majority of wheelhop. These bars link the control arms to the chassis, using the existing tow hook bolt points as a mounting point.
For some people solid motor mounts have helped wheelhop, but didn’t cut it for me. Even with hard polyurethane motor mounts, I still got bad wheel hop. They are certainly better than mushy soft stock motor mounts, but do nothing for rearward deflection of the control arms, which is precisely what these traction bars are designed for.
To put things into perspective, even with a VQ35 and headers in my 2900 lbs 95, I can almost completely floor it in 1st gear from a dig and get zero wheelhop, just clean wheelspin. You can almost feel the transmission letting out a sigh of relief.
They were also tested on a 97 SE 5-speed with stock (and very tired) original motor mounts. Even on that car they got rid of 95% of the wheelhop and would certainly work even better if that car had ES bushings.
The geometry of the front suspension is ideal with these on, as they mount right next to the existing control arm brace running across the underside of the car, link both LCA’s together, which are then linked to the chassis on both sides of the radiator support where the tow hooks used to be.
In addition to greatly reducing (if not completely getting rid of) wheelhop, the bars provide increased stability and really firm up the front end. The car basically feels more solid, especially when taking turns, and none of the cars these were tested on had front strut bars, which would certainly complete the package very well.
Where these really shine is at the track, whether on street tires or with slicks, not only can you run the car as hard as you would when normally getting wheel hop, without it slowing you down and beating the hell out of your drivetrain, but the results are much more consistent, which is a plus for bracket racing.
Slicks are wheelhop free but what the bars do for them is almost as significant as what they do for street tires. Just preventing the LCA's from moving makes a significant difference, and the chances of fudging a launch from dropping the clutch too high decrease alot. My best 60 foot so far is 1.75, and I would not be surprised if I pulled a high 1.6 before the end of the summer.
When using slicks you want to preload them towards the front, and take a more conservative stance on the street.
Installation is quite easy, and takes about 20-30 minutes.
The final design is a good deal more simple than the original version, which had a crossmember run under the radiator support, and were similar to the Z10 bars they make for civics (http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/MODATRB).
They did not work as good as the current design, because the mounting points were too far towards the exterior on the control arms, whereas the final design has them at a nearly perfect 90 degree angle from the radiator support, and the LCA mounting point is very close to the pivot, effectively reducing any horizontal movement.
These bars do not limit steering travel, are located too far from your tires to rub when you turn and they bolt to factory mounting points, no need for welding, drilling, ect. Bolt-on. I drive with mine on all the time, and set them a little more aggressive for the track. It definately rides more firm, but it’s not uncomfortable. You will feel it on harsh roads and love it on good ones.
The tubing is 3/16’’ thick, all bolts are 1/2’’ and the spherical bearings are made of stainless steel. The bars and brackets are gloss black, and everything else (bolts, rod ends, ect.) is chrome. For those concerned about weight, the entire set weights less than 10 pounds.
They fit 95-99 maximas and may be suitable for 00-03’s since we use the same platform but I will have to test them. If there is enough interest I may make some for 3rd gens too.
Price is 199.00$US Shipped anywhere in the US, and 219.00$CND shipped for fellow Canadians.
That is the cheapest I have seen for any FWD traction bar system. The Comp. Engineering set goes for 469$ + shipping for civics, the z10 go for 375$-605$ (see above), the FR set is 335$, and the ones they make for Sentras are 209$+ shipping. Considering how much more than others we usually pay for our aftermarket, pricing is very fair.
The first 10 sets will go for 179.00$US shipped.
I prefer paypal (Dexter1647@hotmail.com), you can just put ‘Traction bars’ in the subject line.
Any questions, please feel free to ask them via e-mail, PM, whatever suits you best.
Traction bars help minimize control arm movement and keep pressure down on the tires. When you floor it down low or launch hard, the arms move rearward, which causes the majority of wheelhop. These bars link the control arms to the chassis, using the existing tow hook bolt points as a mounting point.
For some people solid motor mounts have helped wheelhop, but didn’t cut it for me. Even with hard polyurethane motor mounts, I still got bad wheel hop. They are certainly better than mushy soft stock motor mounts, but do nothing for rearward deflection of the control arms, which is precisely what these traction bars are designed for.
To put things into perspective, even with a VQ35 and headers in my 2900 lbs 95, I can almost completely floor it in 1st gear from a dig and get zero wheelhop, just clean wheelspin. You can almost feel the transmission letting out a sigh of relief.
They were also tested on a 97 SE 5-speed with stock (and very tired) original motor mounts. Even on that car they got rid of 95% of the wheelhop and would certainly work even better if that car had ES bushings.
The geometry of the front suspension is ideal with these on, as they mount right next to the existing control arm brace running across the underside of the car, link both LCA’s together, which are then linked to the chassis on both sides of the radiator support where the tow hooks used to be.
In addition to greatly reducing (if not completely getting rid of) wheelhop, the bars provide increased stability and really firm up the front end. The car basically feels more solid, especially when taking turns, and none of the cars these were tested on had front strut bars, which would certainly complete the package very well.
Where these really shine is at the track, whether on street tires or with slicks, not only can you run the car as hard as you would when normally getting wheel hop, without it slowing you down and beating the hell out of your drivetrain, but the results are much more consistent, which is a plus for bracket racing.
Slicks are wheelhop free but what the bars do for them is almost as significant as what they do for street tires. Just preventing the LCA's from moving makes a significant difference, and the chances of fudging a launch from dropping the clutch too high decrease alot. My best 60 foot so far is 1.75, and I would not be surprised if I pulled a high 1.6 before the end of the summer.
When using slicks you want to preload them towards the front, and take a more conservative stance on the street.
Installation is quite easy, and takes about 20-30 minutes.
The final design is a good deal more simple than the original version, which had a crossmember run under the radiator support, and were similar to the Z10 bars they make for civics (http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/MODATRB).
They did not work as good as the current design, because the mounting points were too far towards the exterior on the control arms, whereas the final design has them at a nearly perfect 90 degree angle from the radiator support, and the LCA mounting point is very close to the pivot, effectively reducing any horizontal movement.
These bars do not limit steering travel, are located too far from your tires to rub when you turn and they bolt to factory mounting points, no need for welding, drilling, ect. Bolt-on. I drive with mine on all the time, and set them a little more aggressive for the track. It definately rides more firm, but it’s not uncomfortable. You will feel it on harsh roads and love it on good ones.
The tubing is 3/16’’ thick, all bolts are 1/2’’ and the spherical bearings are made of stainless steel. The bars and brackets are gloss black, and everything else (bolts, rod ends, ect.) is chrome. For those concerned about weight, the entire set weights less than 10 pounds.
They fit 95-99 maximas and may be suitable for 00-03’s since we use the same platform but I will have to test them. If there is enough interest I may make some for 3rd gens too.
Price is 199.00$US Shipped anywhere in the US, and 219.00$CND shipped for fellow Canadians.
That is the cheapest I have seen for any FWD traction bar system. The Comp. Engineering set goes for 469$ + shipping for civics, the z10 go for 375$-605$ (see above), the FR set is 335$, and the ones they make for Sentras are 209$+ shipping. Considering how much more than others we usually pay for our aftermarket, pricing is very fair.
The first 10 sets will go for 179.00$US shipped.
I prefer paypal (Dexter1647@hotmail.com), you can just put ‘Traction bars’ in the subject line.
Any questions, please feel free to ask them via e-mail, PM, whatever suits you best.
i see, thanks. I have a set of urethane motor mounts sitting in my basement right now that i am too busy to install myself and too poor to pay someone to do it for me, so after those go on, ill see where im at with that wheelhop.
hey, i didn't know you have to wait till 10 buyers to start shipping out. that wasn't clearly stated. i thought first batch will go out at 7-18-05 as mentioned. dude, so if not 10 guys ordered, i won't receive mine at all even if i paid already? dude, so there is no tellin when i'm gonna get mine? what if it never gets to 10 buyers? all this anticipation? i just really hope to receive mine before 7-27-05. man, you only said " the first 10 sets will go out for 179 shipped." not " first 10 fulfilled payment will ship out the first batch".
ones who paid should have theirs first because we can install them and do a write up and take pictures for those so many asking for pics...well?
ones who paid should have theirs first because we can install them and do a write up and take pictures for those so many asking for pics...well?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Originally Posted by cyu1
hey, i didn't know you have to wait till 10 buyers to start shipping out. that wasn't clearly stated. i thought first batch will go out at 7-18-05 as mentioned. dude, so if not 10 guys ordered, i won't receive mine at all even if i paid already? dude, so there is no tellin when i'm gonna get mine? what if it never gets to 10 buyers? all this anticipation? i just really hope to receive mine before 7-27-05. man, you only said " the first 10 sets will go out for 179 shipped." not " first 10 fulfilled payment will ship out the first batch".
ones who paid should have theirs first because we can install them and do a write up and take pictures for those so many asking for pics...well?
ones who paid should have theirs first because we can install them and do a write up and take pictures for those so many asking for pics...well?
ok thanks, cus i freaked out reading the latter posts. it sounded like i have to wait till 10 fulfilled buyers first. if that's the case, i might as well pay later as i squeeze this money in from credit cards. and i really don't like to run on credits.
email me about an approximated day i'll be receiving it if you can. i really want to know because no one will be at home till 5pm everyday and ups shows up randomly from 3pm-7pm. i don't want to miss it on the first attempt.
email me about an approximated day i'll be receiving it if you can. i really want to know because no one will be at home till 5pm everyday and ups shows up randomly from 3pm-7pm. i don't want to miss it on the first attempt.
Originally Posted by JClaw
Edited.
Stainless rod ends used (4 of them, two on each bar):
To be specific it is on slicks that they will really make a difference, because slicks are 100% wheel hop free, yet you can often break them loose due to control arm deflection.
The best way I can explain it is this:
Instead of being like that: V, the slicks will be ||
Stainless rod ends used (4 of them, two on each bar):
To be specific it is on slicks that they will really make a difference, because slicks are 100% wheel hop free, yet you can often break them loose due to control arm deflection.
The best way I can explain it is this:
Instead of being like that: V, the slicks will be ||
So that's why my BFG drag slicks wander so badly on launch!!! JClaw, i'm using my PayPal account and ordering a pair from you right now....
Looking forward to this mod - this is gonna be good........
