Can Anybody Scan Chilton/Haynes Ignition Coil Test Please?
Can Anybody Scan Chilton/Haynes Ignition Coil Test Please?
Hey guys...Can anybody scan the page(s) that tell you how to test the ignition coils for a 2000 Maxima? Thank you for any help.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 301
just go to www.phatg20.net and download the FSM
Originally Posted by jimmycapp
just go to www.phatg20.net and download the FSM
Originally Posted by instil
ill do it for you but not till tomorrow,my scanner is loud as a mf and its 1oclock
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 442
Don't buy a Haynes Maxima book , it sucks. They state the engine images for all models 1995 to 2001 are the same (its like they never looked at a 5.0gen), but the motor setup and mostly all other components are different or in another location.
Originally Posted by AcerX
Don't buy a Haynes Maxima book , it sucks. They state the engine images for all models 1995 to 2001 are the same (its like they never looked at a 5.0gen), but the motor setup and mostly all other components are different or in another location.
Instil...e-mail me at kruppakid@yahoo.com and i'll host the picture. thanks a lot for scanning it. i appreciate it.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
No, BUY a haynes book. Im strongly agree that the 95-2001 year range setup they have sucks for the same reasons you stated (things in different locations,slightly different setups,etc). They should have made a slightly updated version for maybe year 2000 and up. But,theres tons of info in there for a novice-intermediate do-it-yourselfer for maximas and cars in general. Secondly,i have a 2001, so I'm at the very end of the range as far as years covered by this book. Some (most 
) locations of screws and clips are not EXACT, but between reading the book and using common sense,you'll get where you need to be.
Its like the difference between having mapquest, and a big fold out paper map...I'd rather have mapquest telling me "point a ,b,c... youre there" but the paper map is better than nothing.
) locations of screws and clips are not EXACT, but between reading the book and using common sense,you'll get where you need to be.Its like the difference between having mapquest, and a big fold out paper map...I'd rather have mapquest telling me "point a ,b,c... youre there" but the paper map is better than nothing.
I own a FSM and there is no proceedure for testing a coilpack, i would be suprised to if a hanes of chilton had a proceedure.
if there is such a test post it up that would be some good info, but i am pretty sure there is no way to test them
if there is such a test post it up that would be some good info, but i am pretty sure there is no way to test them
He sent me the picture, but it's a .tif file compressed in a zip folder and I'm at work and don't have the right program to open the picture properly (comes up as a bunch of symbols) so i'll post it on my cardomain site and provide a link when I get home around 5 or 6.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 702
fwd it to jason1944@yahoo.com
i'll throw it online.
i'll throw it online.
Originally Posted by jjames
fwd it to jason1944@yahoo.com
i'll throw it online.
i'll throw it online.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 702
Originally Posted by jjames
Originally Posted by jjames
home depot.
btw, what does continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms, mean?
btw, what does continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms, mean?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 702
Originally Posted by Kruppa
I'm just assuming that it means anything above zero ohms means that the coil is okay.
does anyone know the part number for the replacement coils? mine have the dot on top, but i know they are original.
Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.
Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.
Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.
The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a
rubber tube.
To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.
Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.
Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.
The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a
rubber tube.
To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.
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