Is there an easier way to push back the piston on the back brakes. I have the tool and all but on my 5th gen it literally took my brother and I about 20 mins of pushing and turning to get it back enough AND...
on my dads 4 gen ('98) the damn thing wouldnt even buge! There has to be an easier way, shops only take like 30 min to do both. What are they using? Any ideas? Is there something else I can do?

 

You need to replace those calipers. Those pistons are seized and cannot operate properly (even if you do manage to get them retracted).

www.partsamerica.com - reman calipers for 80 bucks a side.

 

Replace both rear calipers, not just one.

 

So are you saying that the rear brakes have not been working for however long the piston has been seized? I know most of the braking is done by the fronts but wouln't I notice non-functional rear brakes?

 

They may be working marginally - but no where near the way they should. You may never notice that they weren't biting as hard since the fronts tend to do most of the work.

 

Wouldn't braking with the e-brake alone be a good test for the rears performance. Read this thread on my rear brake head-ache.
Rear Brakes

Njmodi helped me alot on that thread. What finally helped was opening the brake bleeder screw w/ the Master cylinder reservoir cap tight and while having the bleeder screw connected to a bleeder kit(Which is just a see-through plastic tube connected to a cup).

 

I had the same exactly problem when I tried to change my pads. The driver side rear would not free up, I used every tool I could to try and get it back. I took to local mecanic and they were able to unseized it. Cost me 50 bucks but I was able to save the calibur. Car breaks fine and ebrake works great.

 

Did you ask him what he did?

 

the same thing happened to me too. I changed my pads and those pistons were not moving in the back at all. Changed them both for 150!

 

I have a problem similar to this. When I use my hand brake, and leave it for a long period of time, and when I get back into it to drive, it's like the rear brakes won't release. This also happens in the winter. I don't know if it's the brake cables or the calipers, I just need some help ASAP!

 

I'm the only one that I know of who has ever admitted to improperly using the brake tool. I first thought both my rears were seized too. But it didn't make sense--e brake worked, and pads were worn evenly and not down to the bone.

Park on an incline--does the e brake hold, and when you release it, the car immediately rolls back?

If you have that cheap ratchet type of tool, get rid of it. Buy or rent the one which spreads like a giant C-clamp. It pushes the piston in like butter.

 

save some money, use the same tool to twist the piston out, and get a rebuild kit, clean the inside of the piston with a emory cloth, and install the kit.

 

I might be wrong, but I think I saw a service bulletin for the rear calipers getting stuck.
Jae

 

Yeah, when I park on the incline and release the e-brake it just sits there and doesn't move. So I know the brakes hold. I just can't figure out if I need new brake cables or the calipers need to be maintenenced.

 

I have a similar problem my passenger side rear brake pad looks like it has hardly been used.

Then I go look at the driver side rear pads and the darn thing looks like it is all gone. There is a noise that comes and goes from that area so I know that brake caliper is sticking. Now Im going to probably try to replace it or get a shop to un seize it.

 

Ok, found the TSB. Goto your dealership with this info to get the parts you need.

Jae

 

I just replaces my rear calipers, like a week ago because i noticed that my brake pedal was low. when i took them off......Man those darn calipers where RUSTY and hell...
so you know what change both sides and be happy

 

Would this still work if the car's out of warranty? My wife's '99 has already had 1 caliper replaced when it was under warranty for this very reason. Now, it seems to be doing it again, but the car's out of warranty.

 

The TSB would not in itself.

The car's warranty wont cover it, but the replacement part warranty would. Only thing that has a limitation, 12 months/12,000 miles from date of install. It might cover labor when you had a dealer install it. I'm not clear on it, but I did have a fuel tank sending unit replaced free of charge when my car was over 40k, and I think it was because of the above.

When you have a factory warranty, 3/36 or whatever, then that will cover any replacement parts for the full duration.

 

Parts was about $25 for that TSB. I'm looking at the TSB right now. You're gonna replace the parking brake cables and rear pad retainers. Pretty easy job, it'll take less than an hour if you're experienced.

Jae

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=267096
Recall = free with or w/o warranty
TSB = free only with warranty (bumper to bumper, not powertrain)

 

You should be using a C-clamp holding the brake pad to the caliper to push the piston back and there shouldn't be a problem with it. If the piston is not working properly you are in a pretty dangerous situation, especially if you try to stop suddenly. You definitely need to replace the calipers if the pistons are not moving properly. I would use the c-clamp first and put the caliper back on and test it to see if it stays tight to the brake pad. If your back brakes are not working properly after that then the calipers need to be replaced!

 

hopefully he has it figured out by now lol

 

yo...im having trouble with my rear driver side brakes.

I dont know if the caliper is seized or if the guide pins are frozen. Is there anyway to tell w/o taking off the assembly?

Here are the symptoms:

I got 5MT. The e-brake holds but isnt holding as strong as it should. With the ebrake off, and i go for a drive, I can smell brakes from the rear driver side tire when i park the car after the drive, so i know brake pad is rubbing.

I believe the ebrake is holding for the pass side but not the driver side. OR, the ebrake is not holding as strongly for the driver side.

So i think i have a PARTIALLY stuck caliper ( meaning its stuck to a certain point, but not completely open) or frozen guide pin. Is there any way to tell which needs to be replaced with out looking at it first?

 

I'm dissapointed seeing this question from you. Jack it up and spin both rears, alternatively you can touch the wheels and it'll be the hotter one. Then set the parking brake and make sure they both lock up. Remove the caliper and check the pins first. Try spinning the piston on the caliper next. Could also be a cable seizing up, leave the parking brake off for a few days and see if the calipers free up.

 

Lol @ facepalm

Yea I know man. i was trying to avoid jacking it up.

Alright, only one way to find out whats wrong...time to sweat!

 

Had the same issue my rear calipers siezed up bad... Real bad so bad I had to drag my car in secondto the nearest gas station and come pick it up with my truck, replaced them both problem solved.

 

I know this post is a couple months old, but since the thread was brought back from 7 years ago and others may read this...Crystal87 is completely wrong ...the front caliper pistons DO just push back, but the rears you need to turn clockwise to get them to compress. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers or a special tool for it...if they will not turn with pliers, they are most likely siezed and will need to be replaced.

 

^^^ this... Rear calipers turn in to move the piston...you cannot use a c clamp to press them in...and if you try...you will more than likely damage the caliper needing to replace it anyhow... Is there a reason why some people say to replace both one shot?? Why cantyou just replace the bad one?? Just a question... Igot a bad pass side caliper... Ebrake wont engage at all drivers side is down to metal and grinding like a beotch... I already got rotors and pads...just sorting options regarding my calipers...

 

I replaced just one rear on mine...guess they say to do both cause the other one is probably not far behind. I say fix what's broke. I see no problem just replacing one side.

 

Last year I replaced the rear pads and rotors so those should be good. If not replace those too.

I might jus replace both calipers on both side. If ima do this, Ima do it once, right, and be done with it.

 

it is a complete myth that you need to do both calipers at the same time. theyre not like tires bros, you can do them as you need.

also you do not need any special tool for our break caliper pistons! if you cant turn them with a pair of needle nose plyers(each tip in a hole on the piston), then they arent working properly! its simple guys!

 

You might wanna test your emergency brake cables before anything else......

 

Yes, check the emergency brake. You can have someone pull it while you watch the action of the cable on the springs even with the car on the ground.

Years ago I ran into the problem where the parking brake locked up the rear brakes.
This guy has a picture of exactly what the problem was and why it happened:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/48

Basically like he says - "When some mechanics put your Maxima on a hoist, sometimes the "lift arms" of the hoist bend the parking brake cable bracket."

I noticed that on my fathers car - which was one year newer - they routed the cable more to the inside where lifts would not cause the same problem.

I pulled it off here:
http://www.mikeskeys.com/auto.htm

 

Yea my parkin brake doesnt work at all.. I see the cables "flex" when applied but nothing on the caliper moves...

 

Replace both calipers.

Running a bbk up front?

 

Does your parking brake at least lock up one wheel (the side with the good caliper)? If not, may be time for a new cable.

FYI...I replaced my rear caliper and my e-brake still did not work. Then I did pads/rotors and tried to turn the piston back...it would not turn back...just spun, so obviously i got a bad caliper. Replaced that "new" caliper with another one and my e-brake works great now.

Moral of the story, if your e-brake still does not work after you replace your caliper and BEFORE you buy a new cable, check to ensure that your "new" caliper is working as it should.

 

I think you're right, it's just kinda cool to have some brake tools in a red blown plastic case and all different sizes too! LOL

Also, be careful when you're twisting the piston, that the rubber seal is free (and stationary) and not getting twisted as well....

 

my rear passenger side caliper is frozen? Piston rusty. Does not turn. But when brake pedal is pumped it protrudes. Now I cant make it retract. How to disconnect the parking cable and the brake fluid line to instal a replacement? the piston & kit (O-ring, gasket, boot) costs $20. how easy to repair the caliper for a newbee instead of buying a reconditioed one for $60-$140?
Wonder why piston is plated metal instead of stainless steel or brass?

 

I just bought a remanufactured one at autozone for like 35 dollars.
The E-brake has a clip you have to pull up and then the cable comes off. The brake line just has a bolt your remove. makes sure you replace both copper washers. youtube has a couple videos if you search.