26X8.5 or 26X10?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
26X8.5 or 26X10?
Well I finally norrowed it down to 26-inch slicks. I currently have 23X8.5 and they just wont hold worth crap 3/4 of the time, especially since I've put the more aggressive 1-2 gears of a 2000 Altima in.
The best 60 foot last time out was a 1.82, and it took a big overkill 2nd gear burnout to do it. I can't even drop the clutch above 5000 anymore. I also snapped an axle, which sucks (could this have something to do with the constant 2nd gear burnouts?).
Anywho, the logical solution would be upgrading to M&H 24X8.5 (which is what MardiGrasMax uses), but as I said, I want to stay in 3rd gear, and since I am not going back to the track before I get the tuning done, I might trap 105-106 the next time I go, and I definately don't want to rev the stock VQ35 above 7000 rpms, and don't want to shift into 4th.
26-inch slicks would let me stay in 3rd gear instead of shifting into 4th, and even at 105-106 mph I would pass the traps at maybe 6700-6800, which is perfect.
Still, I'm not sure whether I should go with 8.5's or 10's. Now 10 inches might seem like overkill, but considering SR20DEN has trapped 108 mph in a heavier 5.5gen, the same power (eventually, maybe next year), in a sub 3000 pound (including driver) 4th gen, with a 6000-6500 clutch dump, might be a bit much for the 8.5's (which are actually 8.3 wide, while the 10" are truly 10.0 wide).
As for the axle snapping situation: I'm going with very light 10 lbs 15-inch wheels instead of the 19-20 lb sawblades next time, so the combo should weight around 25 lbs instead of 33-34, which will put considerably less stress on the axles.
Also I imagine 10" would have more rolling resistance in the 2nd 1/4 mile (i.e slow me down a little in the final half of the track)...?
Thoughts? Is the extra 1.7" of thread width really worth it?
The best 60 foot last time out was a 1.82, and it took a big overkill 2nd gear burnout to do it. I can't even drop the clutch above 5000 anymore. I also snapped an axle, which sucks (could this have something to do with the constant 2nd gear burnouts?).
Anywho, the logical solution would be upgrading to M&H 24X8.5 (which is what MardiGrasMax uses), but as I said, I want to stay in 3rd gear, and since I am not going back to the track before I get the tuning done, I might trap 105-106 the next time I go, and I definately don't want to rev the stock VQ35 above 7000 rpms, and don't want to shift into 4th.
26-inch slicks would let me stay in 3rd gear instead of shifting into 4th, and even at 105-106 mph I would pass the traps at maybe 6700-6800, which is perfect.
Still, I'm not sure whether I should go with 8.5's or 10's. Now 10 inches might seem like overkill, but considering SR20DEN has trapped 108 mph in a heavier 5.5gen, the same power (eventually, maybe next year), in a sub 3000 pound (including driver) 4th gen, with a 6000-6500 clutch dump, might be a bit much for the 8.5's (which are actually 8.3 wide, while the 10" are truly 10.0 wide).
As for the axle snapping situation: I'm going with very light 10 lbs 15-inch wheels instead of the 19-20 lb sawblades next time, so the combo should weight around 25 lbs instead of 33-34, which will put considerably less stress on the axles.
Also I imagine 10" would have more rolling resistance in the 2nd 1/4 mile (i.e slow me down a little in the final half of the track)...?
Thoughts? Is the extra 1.7" of thread width really worth it?
What wheels would you put a 10" tire on? Welds? I think 26x8.5 will be enough for you. Also since you are very concerned with weight, remember the wider wheel required for the 10" and the 10" tire itself will weigh more. I've been thinking of 9" or 10" tires, but I need to just get the car in condition to go to the track first.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
M&H makes a 9.2/24.0-15 size, but it requires a 8-9" wide wheel. Good luck finding a cheap, lightweight 15X8 or 15X9 wheel.
The 24.5X8.5 or 26X8.5 will fit on a 15X7 wheel, like Kosei K1 TS, which only weight 10.6 lbs.
But why would you want 24? Kris, I know you love reving the crap out of the motor, but really, reving past 7200 is just pointless. Look at your dyno curve. Even SR20DEN's dyno curve drops off hard past 7 grand. Do yourself a favor and get a more conservative slick size.
24.5 slicks have little sidewall flex (although more than 23) and once you get your ignition timing advanced, you'll just break the f*ckers loose.
With 26-inch slicks you would be crossing the line at 7200 rpm at 106-107 mph, ask Neal, he'll tell you the same thing. With 24.5 you'd be crossing at 7600 or so, which is ridiculously high.
And if you trap like 110 eventually, you'd be around 7800-7900, totally out of the powerband.
Really, get 26's, shove the needle in the rev limiter, and call it a day. My .02.
The 24.5X8.5 or 26X8.5 will fit on a 15X7 wheel, like Kosei K1 TS, which only weight 10.6 lbs.
But why would you want 24? Kris, I know you love reving the crap out of the motor, but really, reving past 7200 is just pointless. Look at your dyno curve. Even SR20DEN's dyno curve drops off hard past 7 grand. Do yourself a favor and get a more conservative slick size.
24.5 slicks have little sidewall flex (although more than 23) and once you get your ignition timing advanced, you'll just break the f*ckers loose.
With 26-inch slicks you would be crossing the line at 7200 rpm at 106-107 mph, ask Neal, he'll tell you the same thing. With 24.5 you'd be crossing at 7600 or so, which is ridiculously high.
And if you trap like 110 eventually, you'd be around 7800-7900, totally out of the powerband.
Really, get 26's, shove the needle in the rev limiter, and call it a day. My .02.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
I'm sure it can be done, but the contact patch (and thus traction) would suffer. I know SR said he had traction problems, but ET streets suck from what I have heard.
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