After reading Craig Brace's write up on grounding the VTC solenoids i attempted it one thing i was unclear on was whether or not to totally cut the wires going to the front solenoid or not. So when i first grounded them i didnt cut the wires totally just stripped the wires and then grounded them since the "ticking" didnt go away right away i cut the wires totally. The noise eventually went away but then the car idled at about 300 rpms and bounced around a little from about 100 rpms to 1100 rpms until finally it just died also the battery light was on while i was driving it and the e-brake light was also on(that may or may not have anything to do with this). please help me.

 

Are u sure u got the right wires? Try returning to starting point: carefully solder and insulate what has been taken out. Go through fuses and see if all are ok. Check that battery has still enough juice, over 12V. Just dont let confusion take over - slowly think over.

 

Start over, reconnect any wire that was cut.
Now, you should ground only the Yellow with the Green stripe (indicated as Y/G in the diagram). You have to carefully cut away some of the rubber tubing/insulation that covers the wires going to the VTC solenoid. The one towards the front of the vehicle is the easiest to get to. Alternately you could attach a ground wire at the Y/G wire at pin 113 of the ECU. (Not recommended)
This will simulate the ground signal the ECU would output to engage the VTCs all the time. I did this on my 92 SE and my VTC noise went away completely with no apparent side effects.


[IMG]
http://x1.putfile.com/8/22705374348-thumb.gif[/IMG]

 

Start over, reconnect any wire that was cut.
Now, you should ground only the Yellow with the Green stripe (indicated as Y/G in the diagram). You have to carefully cut away some of the rubber tubing/insulation that covers the wires going to the VTC solenoid. The one towards the front of the vehicle is the easiest to get to. Alternately you could attach a ground wire at the Y/G wire at pin 113 of the ECU. (Not recommended)
This will simulate the ground signal the ECU would output to engage the VTCs all the time. I did this on my 92 SE and my VTC noise went away completely with no apparent side effects.

(Click to zoom)

 

Now see THAT's what I thought I read somewhere before, but then last week someone said you do lose power. Mine are pretty noisy and I'd like to eliminate it without spending too much dough, but not at the noticeable loss of power.

 

If they are already clacking constantly then chances are you've already lost power, so you won't notice any difference when you ground them completely.

 

...or just driving nice, under 5k. Long Live Simplicity.

 

2 possibilities:
1. You cut the wire for the alternator.
2. your alternator was already going bad and the timing was perfect.
3. you blew a fusible link by grounding to power

 

I would take bets on #3

 

not only will you loose power, but also some fuel economy!

 

So what's it running folks for rebuilt VTCs?

 

thanks to everyone for the help ill just reconect every wire and only solder the green and tellow one hopefully this will work!

 

solder everything* but only ground the green and yellow one*

 

You doing the labor or a shop?

 

I just did mine this morning and there is a big difference. The car sounds so sweet. I just grounded the yellow/green wire and it worked like a charm. i really dont know if i lost any hp but i really dont care just the silence is so good.

 

today i drank chocolate milk from safeway and it was soo good i drank like a galon of it then at work my stomac hurt. so i went home and worked on my car all day.

 

 

If I can do it myself, that'd be great. I know how to do some mods from my alty, but it didn't have VTCs. I'm sure there's a tutorial somewhere on here.


But if not, a shop.

I'd love silence upon startup.

 

The basics::
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f49f3.jsp

Just unbolt a few things:

 

As you can see by jeff's picture above, this is not a job for somebody that does not have much experience in auto mechanics.

If you do try to do it yourself.....good luck!

 

would replacing them be better and last longer? or rebuilding?

 

Replacement would be better but much more $$$$$.....


http://home.earthlink.net/~maxfaq/vtc/vtc2.htm

 

err now im confused... the article contradicted itself... how many people have actually replaced them and had them go bad after 20k miles? labor isn't the issue... its how long i have to wait for my dad to get around to doing it. if replacing them will last a lot longer then I'll do that. in a good amount of time. just thought I'd jump on this thread since it was already open and active.

 

From what i have read on here the spring in the vtc assemblies looses its "springyness". the replacement springs for them is "supposed' to be stronger metal.

But i personally think it is the lack of oil flow to the vtc's themselves that causes all the rebuilds and total vtc assembliy replacements to fail.The oil gallies going to them are too small and get clogged with sluge causing the vtc's to fail over and over again...

I might be wrong but that is my .02 cents....Jeff or matt please correct me if i am wrong...

 

Naw that's about right. But my engine is squeaky clean and mine have start clackity clacking.

Rebuilds are a 50/50 thing. Some start failing again as soon as 10,000-12,000 miles. some don't. Go figure.

New ones seem to last much longer. But damn, the price is like $450 each now!?! Funk that.

 

I personally think that if your ve has low miles on it then i would replace them but if you have a high mile engine{like mine 284,500 } then just ground them....

all that work and $$$$$ is just not worth it on a engine getting close to being in the junkyard....

 

Okay i re soldered the red and black wire so that is not grouded to anything and grounded the green and yellow wire to ground this wire i just shaved away the coating and soldered a ground wire to it the "ticking" is still coming so apparently it didnt work is there a fuse or something i should check to see? also when i hook up a test light to the positive battery post and touch the red and black wire it indicates that its grounded. Also the idle is a little rough it kind of bounces around. Help me!

 

- are u sure noise is from VTC and not valve lifters? How?
- have u cleaned the engine [seafoam or whatever], new oil, right type oilfilter?

 

Speaking of oil filters, I was reading that other thread and the possible benefits of the Toyota filter in absence of the right Nissan filter.

So the K&N one in autozone or whatever is not gonna do the trick? Even after you've been clacking a while will changing to that filter quiet things down?

 

Filters are not the same. Oil flow (backpressure) varies between types, and in that respect maxima hydraulic valve lifters are told to be astmathic. I have not had any problems. I use Nissan originals from local dealer as theres no cost difference.

One issue is possibly blocked channels.

Oil has to be ok (Theres one Nissan oil related bulletin NTB92-124, dunno whatsinthere), seek the owens.com