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Car Apart - Need Urgent Help Tonight! Lots of Oil in Spark Plug Well!

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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 03:53 PM
  #1  
ABS's Avatar
ABS
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Car Apart - Need Urgent Help Tonight! Lots of Oil in Spark Plug Well!

Folks:

I decided to replace my plugs today on my 2K2. The front bank was no problem. Pulled the intake manifold and went to the rear bank and discovered that the spark plug well for the driver's side plug was filled with oil! The entire coil assembly was coated with oil. I pulled the plug and discoverd that it was tight and, although the plug got drenched with oil on the way out, I could tell that it had been dry by looking at the recessed ceramic part of the plug which was still white. Apparently the oil was getting into the well through the seal between the metal access tube and the valve cover. I can only suspect that somehow the inside of the valve assembly is getting "pressurized" and that oil is literally being forced out of the engine, past the seal, by that pressure. I pulled the rear valve cover and discovered that the rubber seals around the the spark plug access tubes (including the one loaded with oil) are all in good condition.

Additionally, there is a clear difference in wear and tear on the front bank plugs versus the rear bank. The front bank plugs look really clean and as though they have been wearing really, really well. The rear bank plugs look somewhat oily (although not excessive) and seem to be showing signs of more wear from heat as there is some whitish colored somewhat powdery substance on the metal part making ground connection for the spark.

The car now has about 75K on it. I replaced the PVC valve once at around 40K.

I have also been hearing some type of metallic rattling from under the car when going over bumps. I know it is not the suspension and that it is not the muffler hitting the pass through.

I have been thinking that the car isn't as powerful as I recollect it being, but I figured it was just the age of the engine.

I had been running the stock air box but with the bottom of the OEM CAI opened up to let more air in. I re-sealed the opening (to revert it back to the OEM design) about 500 miles ago and got back some low end torque - I don't see how this could be part of the issue though. I have never used any aftermarket air filters or intakes.

I also consistently get around 21 mpg which I think is less than others are getting as I've seen reports of 25-26mpg from a lot of people.

I am now wondering if my problem is the same one the GBAUER was having (clogged converter) as he described here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=425519
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=424368

I need to get my car back on the road ASAP as it is my daily driver, but I don't want to put this back together without first solving my problem.

Please post thoughts as quickly as possible since I need help tonight.

Thank you!

Andrew
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 05:28 PM
  #2  
BewstAdd1ct's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,587
From: Lakeland, FL
Originally Posted by ABS
Folks:

I decided to replace my plugs today on my 2K2. The front bank was no problem. Pulled the intake manifold and went to the rear bank and discovered that the spark plug well for the driver's side plug was filled with oil! The entire coil assembly was coated with oil. I pulled the plug and discoverd that it was tight and, although the plug got drenched with oil on the way out, I could tell that it had been dry by looking at the recessed ceramic part of the plug which was still white. Apparently the oil was getting into the well through the seal between the metal access tube and the valve cover. I can only suspect that somehow the inside of the valve assembly is getting "pressurized" and that oil is literally being forced out of the engine, past the seal, by that pressure. I pulled the rear valve cover and discovered that the rubber seals around the the spark plug access tubes (including the one loaded with oil) are all in good condition.
even if the appear to be in good condition, they may still be leaking.


Additionally, there is a clear difference in wear and tear on the front bank plugs versus the rear bank. The front bank plugs look really clean and as though they have been wearing really, really well. The rear bank plugs look somewhat oily (although not excessive) and seem to be showing signs of more wear from heat as there is some whitish colored somewhat powdery substance on the metal part making ground connection for the spark.
usually this indicates a lean condition. since for whatever reason, a failed MAF sensor seems to have bank 1 failing first, you may be in the early stages of a MAF failure, which is supported also by the lack of power you mention later in the post.

I have also been hearing some type of metallic rattling from under the car when going over bumps. I know it is not the suspension and that it is not the muffler hitting the pass through.
heat sheild?

I have been thinking that the car isn't as powerful as I recollect it being, but I figured it was just the age of the engine.
yeah, that ^^

I had been running the stock air box but with the bottom of the OEM CAI opened up to let more air in. I re-sealed the opening (to revert it back to the OEM design) about 500 miles ago and got back some low end torque - I don't see how this could be part of the issue though. I have never used any aftermarket air filters or intakes.

I also consistently get around 21 mpg which I think is less than others are getting as I've seen reports of 25-26mpg from a lot of people.

I am now wondering if my problem is the same one the GBAUER was having (clogged converter)
could be, which would also simulate a lean condition.

I need to get my car back on the road ASAP as it is my daily driver, but I don't want to put this back together without first solving my problem.

Please post thoughts as quickly as possible since I need help tonight.

Thank you!

Andrew
id start with that rear valve cover gasket, make sure you get the tube orings, if theyre available. when you get reassembled, you can run some driveability testing...
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