Tranny Flush post-mortem
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Tranny Flush post-mortem
a few lesson's learned from my tranny pan clean & ATF flush:
1) after you drain the ATF via the drain plug, there's still another quart waiting inside to spill all over you when you drop the pan - be ready for it.
2) filter screen - you really can't get it off without removing the valve body (which is a big job). don't bother replacing the screen unless you find big chunks of metal in your pan. in which case you might just take you car to a professional for repair.
3) fluid never stops dripping while you have the pan off, and it leaks down the side onto the gasket mating surface. makes it really difficult to get the gasket surface clean and dry for installing the new gasket. you will undoubtedly get fluid in the gasket seal during the install. I'd say a rubber gasket is better suited to handle this (as opposed to the OEM paper??) my rubber gasket hasn't leaked yet.
4) ATF flush - once you re-install the pan and fill, there are really only abut 4 quarts of old fluid left in the tranny than need to be flushed. one milk jug with 1/2 quart markers should suffice for the flushing drain pan.
5) use a section 7/16" OD clear plastic tube from home depot. connect to ATF cooler return outlet and direct into the milk jug. follow the steps in the stickies to flush.
My oberservation from the flushing process: I got the feeling that the fluid I was pouring into the dip stick tube was simply being pumped into the radiator, and then out into the milk jug. after about 1 quart old fluid came out (that was in the cooler) the drain fluid looked new - but there still should've been 3 more quarts of dirty fluid in there somewhere. I'm not convinced this process is a substitute for the tans-tech flushing - which removes and replaces fluid from the same point in circulation without mixing it. I think this DIY flush skips the old fluid in the torque converter, which is pumped back into the sump to mix with the new fluid you are adding, which is then pumped out to the cooler and into your drain pan???? if so, then this is an ineffictive method, and a waste of (expensive) new fluid.
anyone have the inside scoop on the circulation path inside the tanny??
1) after you drain the ATF via the drain plug, there's still another quart waiting inside to spill all over you when you drop the pan - be ready for it.
2) filter screen - you really can't get it off without removing the valve body (which is a big job). don't bother replacing the screen unless you find big chunks of metal in your pan. in which case you might just take you car to a professional for repair.
3) fluid never stops dripping while you have the pan off, and it leaks down the side onto the gasket mating surface. makes it really difficult to get the gasket surface clean and dry for installing the new gasket. you will undoubtedly get fluid in the gasket seal during the install. I'd say a rubber gasket is better suited to handle this (as opposed to the OEM paper??) my rubber gasket hasn't leaked yet.
4) ATF flush - once you re-install the pan and fill, there are really only abut 4 quarts of old fluid left in the tranny than need to be flushed. one milk jug with 1/2 quart markers should suffice for the flushing drain pan.
5) use a section 7/16" OD clear plastic tube from home depot. connect to ATF cooler return outlet and direct into the milk jug. follow the steps in the stickies to flush.
My oberservation from the flushing process: I got the feeling that the fluid I was pouring into the dip stick tube was simply being pumped into the radiator, and then out into the milk jug. after about 1 quart old fluid came out (that was in the cooler) the drain fluid looked new - but there still should've been 3 more quarts of dirty fluid in there somewhere. I'm not convinced this process is a substitute for the tans-tech flushing - which removes and replaces fluid from the same point in circulation without mixing it. I think this DIY flush skips the old fluid in the torque converter, which is pumped back into the sump to mix with the new fluid you are adding, which is then pumped out to the cooler and into your drain pan???? if so, then this is an ineffictive method, and a waste of (expensive) new fluid.
anyone have the inside scoop on the circulation path inside the tanny??
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