I'm going to use standard pads and such, I'm not asking questions on how to do it just looking for some lessons learned from the board illuminati. Any info is appreciated.

P.S. It's in your best interest to help me, I always drive closer to other Maximas and if my brakes don't come out right....

 

Well, for one I would say return the pads you have now and get Hawk HPS if you don't want to have your rotors warp. Secondly, make sure you have a sledge on hand to knock the rortor loose...they will be quite tight. Lastly, I would recommend renting a torque wrench so that you may tighten everything to OEM specs...overtightening is another culprit of the dread rotor warp.

GL, man.

 

Be sure to get a can of spray on anti-squeal. Coat the backs of the new pads and the shims real good.

 

mine as well paint the cals while your in there. well, if you want to that is.

 

Might want to have a C-clamp on hand for pushing the piston back into the caliper, its pretty hard to do by hand.

 

You can take the rotor very easy.
There are two special holes on the rotor to put a screw. Put a screw in, tighten and rotor will fall off itself.

Just you have to get a right size screw. No need for hamering a rotor.

 

Where is the fun in that...

Half the fun of replacing brakes is taking out all your aggression on your old rotors...

PS-old rotors are fun to shoot into swiss cheese as well

 

 

Good looks yall, will a regular C Clamp work though? I know you have to twist the piston while you push..

 

You only have to twist on the back ones.

 

There's a magic little tool for the rear rotor - a little cube that plugs into your socket wrench. It costs ~$10, but Autozone will lend you one for free.

 

Doing the rear brakes suck. I hate doing them. But ODB is correct this little cude looks like this.

or if you are going to be doing a lot of these then my I suggest investing in a this.


this can be found at Performance Cafe