Engine Knock - VIDEO
Engine Knock - VIDEO
Ok, here's the deal, the car sucked up some water during hurricane Katrina and a few weeks later this noise appeared...
At first it was a faint knock, it was random, and didnt rise w/ rpms...
Recently it has upgraded to rising with rpm and being there almost all the time...
Keep in mind this is not a LOUD KNOCK, its very faint, you can only hear it if you open the hood and look for it...
All the noobs GTFO and go find a intake thread..
Here's the vid.
http://media.putfile.com/damnedknock
At first it was a faint knock, it was random, and didnt rise w/ rpms...
Recently it has upgraded to rising with rpm and being there almost all the time...
Keep in mind this is not a LOUD KNOCK, its very faint, you can only hear it if you open the hood and look for it...
All the noobs GTFO and go find a intake thread..
Here's the vid.
http://media.putfile.com/damnedknock
Sorry to say, that does sound like a rod knocking. Try running some heavier weight oil, like a single viscosity 40 or even 50 weight oil. If the knock goes away then it probably is excessive bearing clearance. If it doesn't go away, it could be piston slap, but the piston slap I have heard in the past had a lighter sound than what is happening here.
Also, mechanics s***hoscopes are great for pinpointing noise sources. For instance, it is easy to tell if a noise is coming from the alternator or the AC compressor rather than the engine with a s***hoscope.
Also, mechanics s***hoscopes are great for pinpointing noise sources. For instance, it is easy to tell if a noise is coming from the alternator or the AC compressor rather than the engine with a s***hoscope.
One more thing I forgot to mention, the car wasnt reving when it sucked up the water, my step dad turned it on and it sucked up water right when he cranked it, it started for a second then turned off, so it was idling when it sucked up water.
Doesnt sound good, Rod seems like a it could be the source. Its very faint and I'm surprised you heard it, you had to be extremly close to the engine to hear it.
There is a thread in the FS parting out a DE-K, if you have time to tear your enigne apart and find the cause, you maybe able to get the replacement parts from the person parting out the DE-K. Thats if you didnt want to go the route of swapping another motor in.
There is a thread in the FS parting out a DE-K, if you have time to tear your enigne apart and find the cause, you maybe able to get the replacement parts from the person parting out the DE-K. Thats if you didnt want to go the route of swapping another motor in.
Don't think it's a busted rod. When I drowned the engine in my Taurus the sound was there RIGHT AWAY. No delay, either weeks since the incident or minutes since startup.
It may be accelerated wear due to the oil being wrecked. As for the delay since startup it could be due to mechanical parts that expand with heat and two parts are either coming into contact or their clearance becomone too great. I'd do a couple of quick oil changes then go over it with a s***hoscope. Also try removing the belts to rule out one of the accessories as the source of the sound.
If the s***hoscope reveals the sound it coming from the bottom end then drop the oil pan and wiggle each of the rod ends. I'll wager you one small gold pig that you've spun a rod bearing due to the contaminated oil. If you HAVE spun a rod bearing then running the engine will flatten the bearing more and more and more until the bearing is wafer thin. All this time the sound will get louder and more consistent.
EDIT2: Yes, I know that dropping the aluminom upper oil pan is far from a trivial exercise... Took me about 2 hours to drop the oil pan to replace the rear main seal housing. But it would give you access to nearly all of the potential sound sources.
EDIT: Why is the tet in "Stethoscope" censored?
It may be accelerated wear due to the oil being wrecked. As for the delay since startup it could be due to mechanical parts that expand with heat and two parts are either coming into contact or their clearance becomone too great. I'd do a couple of quick oil changes then go over it with a s***hoscope. Also try removing the belts to rule out one of the accessories as the source of the sound.
If the s***hoscope reveals the sound it coming from the bottom end then drop the oil pan and wiggle each of the rod ends. I'll wager you one small gold pig that you've spun a rod bearing due to the contaminated oil. If you HAVE spun a rod bearing then running the engine will flatten the bearing more and more and more until the bearing is wafer thin. All this time the sound will get louder and more consistent.
EDIT2: Yes, I know that dropping the aluminom upper oil pan is far from a trivial exercise... Took me about 2 hours to drop the oil pan to replace the rear main seal housing. But it would give you access to nearly all of the potential sound sources.
EDIT: Why is the tet in "Stethoscope" censored?
Originally Posted by Scruit
Don't think it's a busted rod. When I drowned the engine in my Taurus the sound was there RIGHT AWAY. No delay, either weeks since the incident or minutes since startup.
It may be accelerated wear due to the oil being wrecked. As for the delay since startup it could be due to mechanical parts that expand with heat and two parts are either coming into contact or their clearance becomone too great. I'd do a couple of quick oil changes then go over it with a s***hoscope. Also try removing the belts to rule out one of the accessories as the source of the sound.
If the s***hoscope reveals the sound it coming from the bottom end then drop the oil pan and wiggle each of the rod ends. I'll wager you one small gold pig that you've spun a rod bearing due to the contaminated oil. If you HAVE spun a rod bearing then running the engine will flatten the bearing more and more and more until the bearing is wafer thin. All this time the sound will get louder and more consistent.
EDIT2: Yes, I know that dropping the aluminom upper oil pan is far from a trivial exercise... Took me about 2 hours to drop the oil pan to replace the rear main seal housing. But it would give you access to nearly all of the potential sound sources.
EDIT: Why is the tet in "Stethoscope" censored?
It may be accelerated wear due to the oil being wrecked. As for the delay since startup it could be due to mechanical parts that expand with heat and two parts are either coming into contact or their clearance becomone too great. I'd do a couple of quick oil changes then go over it with a s***hoscope. Also try removing the belts to rule out one of the accessories as the source of the sound.
If the s***hoscope reveals the sound it coming from the bottom end then drop the oil pan and wiggle each of the rod ends. I'll wager you one small gold pig that you've spun a rod bearing due to the contaminated oil. If you HAVE spun a rod bearing then running the engine will flatten the bearing more and more and more until the bearing is wafer thin. All this time the sound will get louder and more consistent.
EDIT2: Yes, I know that dropping the aluminom upper oil pan is far from a trivial exercise... Took me about 2 hours to drop the oil pan to replace the rear main seal housing. But it would give you access to nearly all of the potential sound sources.
EDIT: Why is the tet in "Stethoscope" censored?

pull the plugs and do a compression test. While you have the plugs out pour some drygas in all the plug holes and let it dry.
In my experience, if you get water in an engine, it stops working pretty quickly.
With the motor running does the crankshaft pulley move up and down like a jackhammer? If you had a bent rod or excessive clearance it would probably transmit through the entire crank and you'd see the crankshaft pulley moving around a little.
In my experience, if you get water in an engine, it stops working pretty quickly.
With the motor running does the crankshaft pulley move up and down like a jackhammer? If you had a bent rod or excessive clearance it would probably transmit through the entire crank and you'd see the crankshaft pulley moving around a little.
If it's something like a spun rod bearing it's possible to just replace the bearing if the crank journals are fine and the rod itself isn't damaged. If not, rebuild/new motor time.
Ok here is my video of what my knocking sounds like engine video, I can hear it through the whole video but certain points are around 20-24seconds, 30 second mark, and 40 seconds.
Originally Posted by SDot82
Ok here is my video of what my knocking sounds like engine video, I can hear it through the whole video but certain points are around 20-24seconds, 30 second mark, and 40 seconds.
You have a little ping. Sounds like your timing chain guides are starting to wear too. Maybe a little hydraulic valve noise. Its really hard to tell which it is for sure.
I'd suggest if you think it's a knock to do a compression test. I am pretty sure your compression will be fine.
Originally Posted by PAREDLINE
That sounds like a worn normal engine to me. A knock is loud. You feel pain in your bahls when you hear a motor knock. It's that bad.
You have a little ping. Sounds like your timing chain guides are starting to wear too. Maybe a little hydraulic valve noise. Its really hard to tell which it is for sure.
I'd suggest if you think it's a knock to do a compression test. I am pretty sure your compression will be fine.
You have a little ping. Sounds like your timing chain guides are starting to wear too. Maybe a little hydraulic valve noise. Its really hard to tell which it is for sure.
I'd suggest if you think it's a knock to do a compression test. I am pretty sure your compression will be fine.
u made my day a lot better.
i dont know a whole lot about engines but dosent a bad egr system on a max make a loud noise too? .. I kinda have a noise like that from time to time, i havent done anything about it though
You didn't need to drop the upper oil pan to replace the rear main seal, I didn't when I replaced mine.
The reason why the letters "t-e-t" is sensored is because of an old member called T-E-T = Top Element Tuning, he's banned now --- forever. We'll spare you the dreadful details.
The reason why the letters "t-e-t" is sensored is because of an old member called T-E-T = Top Element Tuning, he's banned now --- forever. We'll spare you the dreadful details.
Originally Posted by Scruit
...Took me about 2 hours to drop the oil pan to replace the rear main seal housing. But it would give you access to nearly all of the potential sound sources.
...Why is the tet in "Stethoscope" censored?
...Why is the tet in "Stethoscope" censored?

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10 carrots, and maybe some peas...
