Sorry search button doesnt work for me. Someone point me to a breaf rightup, or link for relocating battery to trunk. Thanks.

 

Well the search button must not but the post button must work awful damn well go delete the other 2 posts you made

 

Well the search button must not but the post button must work awful damn well go delete the other 2 posts you made

 

Well the search button must not but the post button must work awful damn well go delete the other 2 posts you made

 

I noticed theres a bit of a prob with the post.LOL bunch of em.

Any Links though?

 

http://web.archive.org/web/200312071...n/battery.html

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....locate+battery


btw, you can search. go to the feedback forum and check out the free yahoo & google maxima.org search...goodluck

 

why do you want to relocate it?

 

It is done to remove all that heavy weight from the front end, and sometimes to clear up space under the hood. Do some research of vehicle dynamics, and you'll see that optimizing weight bias of a car can be very helpful.

 

Thats teh pot calling the kettle black.

 

no **** sherlock, im not a dummy.

i mean why exactly does HE/SHE want to move it.

if they race at the track it may be more of a headache because of the wiring and switches needed to keep it legal. if its for weight then fine, but a lighter battery in the stock location can be had and will be much easier to do. if its for room same thing, you can get smaller ones. there are pros and cons for each way of course, but some ways are better than others.

 

Oh well... I have owned one vehicle with the batteries under the 'rumble seat' to use an American term (on an MGC-GT).
Things against:
Battery acid mist from the vent holes is going to eat your luggage...
You won't have as good load regulation as previously.
If you really insist on relocating the battery you will first have to build a physical retainer for it, I.E., a tray and retaining strap.

The earth side is relatively easy, simply make a flexible braid strap with a large terminal lug soldered on one end and a battery clamp on the other end.
The big problem is the positive line. The cable will have to be massively thick. Cranking current is in the region of 120 amps or more, and that's when the engine is already cranking; the first crank will take over 300A. http://www.picotech.com/auto/wavefor...ng_petrol.html has some good info, if you don't believe me.
You could either run one whopping fat cable to where the original B+ terminal is, or run a slightly less fat cable to the starter circuit and another, capable of say 150A, to the old B+ (to carry everything except the starter).
The fat cable would be about the size of your thumb! We're not talking 6 gauge here, we're talking about inch-diameter copper, the sort of stuff I used to use in small power stations.
Frankly I think it is a waste of time and money. Buy a carbon hood or go on a diet instead. Or take off the front fender and throw it away...

 

More room under the hood, weight distribution and easier to jump. As far as acid eating at the luggage, Optima Yellow top. And my car is a two seater so it wont be too far from the engine.

Thanks for the link.

Oh and lighter smaller wont handle the sound system. And easy? Well i would by a civic if i wanted cheesy, i mean easy.

 

you came on the maxima forum for help with your 300z?
how is popping the hood harder than popping the trunk?
you have a stereo and you are worried about weight distrubution?
i will agree on space under the hood of a 300 is premium.

 

get all the parts you need to do it yourself correctly at NAPA. I dropped about $100 on the battery shutoff swith, 30 ft, o-gauge wire and connectors and the marine battery box. Its easy and all I can say is WOW when you lookk in your engine compartment and marvel over the amount of space you gotta fill up with power mods : ) Good luck and don't hate

-LIEB-

 

Yea, this forum has less a**holes than the 300zx forum, and has more info readily available.

What does opening the hood and trunk have to do with my query. If you are referring to my statement about ease of jumps: my battery in back most cars battery in front. Get the drift.

Not all stereo systems that are higher power mean heaver nor does the weight, despite bieng slightly hevier negate the need for weight distribution. in a rear wheel drive car closer i can get to 50/50 the better. whether an once or a pound.

Thanks everybody. This will be completed when i rip out my interior and add all the new stuff. I can post pics if you guys want to see the before and after, in a month or so. as soon as the snow lets up for good.

Share the Nissan love.

 

do it!
-LIEB-

 

The downside of moving the battery back is all the heavy cable required. One alternative not mentioned much is replacing with a lightweight battery relocated up front to offer more room.

 

It was suggested before.

 

lol you need to clean that!

 

that is one dirtyass engine bay

as for vagabonds post he was asking for me
I work with him and weve been moding my 95 SE for the past few months. we want to move the battery in the back so we have more room for the rest of my intake.