i was coming from work the other night and my car just started jerking real hard, it feels like itsstruggling to shift gears, the RPM jumps up and down. i just had my engine replaced so i was wondering if the guy did something wrong with the tranny. it even cut off at a certain point, i restarted it and then drove home, but everytime i got to a light i had to drive off in 2 then shift when i am about 60mph,
if my tranny is bad how much would it be to replace it and if i wanted a 5sp how much more would it be?

 

Never heard of the auto trannies being problemsome but I guess anything is possible. Have you noticed any leaks or fluid on the ground? Check the fluid level, it maybe low. I advise against a tranny flush right now until you can check for leaks or smell burning coming from the tranny area. Let us know what you find out.

 

sounds like a misfire.
if you've never experienced it before it might freak you out. (it's much worse on an 4 banger though)
could be something else though. No codes?

 

i have been trying to find leaks but i dont seem to see any, and would it missfire so hard and continuously, its like the jerk you get when u move off in a high gear using a 5sp except its harder and continuous, what if i change around my coil packs? would they cause the car to jerk so hard?

 

by the way how do you test coilpacks to make sure they are ok?

 

The engine that was replaced was it used? I think it might have to do with old spark plugs. Take the spark plugs out and check for corrosion. Also have you cleaned the throttle body and IACV. I had sought of the same problem when I first got my car but it wasn't as bad as what you are describing. I basically did a tune up and cleaned every possible location of carbon buildup. The car now drives very smooth and no rough idle.

 

Pull the codes off of the ECU first, it might tell you which cylinder is misfiring.

 

I have a problem related to the topic. It may be the tranny. I drove to school today and driving down the road the rpm's were really high overdrive was on but when i accelerated to 80mph the rpm's were went up to ~5000 and they dont go down unless i let off the gass and then they go to idle. Accelerating from a dead stop is really slow even with the peddel on the floor. Is this the tranny or something else?

 

i just got the codes and they are as follows
05 04 = Automatic Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU
01 01 = Camshaft Position Sensor
08 07 = EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit
03 03 = Front Left Heated O2 sensor

i have never gotten this many codes at once, will someone please help me, is there anything i can do about them?

 

Usually when that happens there is one code that causes other codes to malfunction. I would rule out the oxygen sensor and pershaps the EVAp. When the camshaft position sensor does not function correctly it would cause the car to stall or not start. I don't know too much about code 0504, but check the faq section on ecu codes and what they mean. They might be able to give you a good idea until someone responds back with a better answer.

 

I would start with the CPS code after that is fixed delete all the codes and drive around for a bit to see if anything pops up.

 

the camshaft sensor is right on the side above teh belt tentioner, right? and the crankshaft sensor is the one under the transmission, right?
will teh cam shaft sensor keep the car from starting?
how do you know if your fuel pump is bad?

 

I kinda have that problem and i thought i just got bad gas, but new gas didnt help so i think im gonna replace the MAF cause it will barely run now and ive checked everything else

 

camshaft sensor will def keep the car from starting. I forgot to plug it back in once after testing it
replace it. see what happens.

 

you are so right, thsi morning i took the chance and went to oreilly to get one and they said that they had to order it and it would take two hours, i went to autozone and got it for about $15 more, i came home it took me like a minute and a half to change them and voooom voooom teh car started like nothing had ever happened to it, lol, i ran around it for a while ( like an idiot ofcourse ) got in it and dove up the street like the cops were after me lol,
my only fear now is that i am wondering if teh O2 sensor made it go bad, i'll just have to wait and see, if it does go bad again, i'll just have to replace them and get another CPS.
thanks alot guys, i'll let yall know if anything else comes up, but for now i am about to go drive all over the place lol

 

I had the same thing happen to me about 3 weeks ago. Scared the cr#p out of me. I'll check mine, too, and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks. Glad I checked into the ORG today.

 

The O2 sensor would not make camshaft sensor go bad. If anything I think camshaft sensor being bad might have made the O2 sensor code show up (poor ignition timing messes with emissions). Reset the ECU and see if anything else comes back.

 

i checked the ecu and got only the 03 03 code again, which is that O2 sensor code, it drives fine for now and everything seems to be in tacted, i just dont know if the O2 sensor will have any harm on any thing else.


by the way, bad O2 sensors give you bad gas milage, is that right?



will the O2 sensor for the 99 I30 and 99 maxima fit on my 96max?
i saw some on ebay that i think i might get according to what you all say

 

it's the tranny...your overdrive isn't engaging, and your torque converter isn't locking up, thats why you go to idle when you let off the gas. You need a rebuild.

 

This could be the turbine (torque converter) failing. On the other hand it could be as simple as the lockup solenoid failing to disengage at the proper times. Take the car into a transmission shop and have them disable the lockup solenoid, the car should still drive normally but disabling it causes a MPG penalty (not terrible or anything) because where the trannie would normally be locked up, it will still be running a few percent slip.
If disabling the lockup makes no difference, re-enable it and have the turbine checked out. A failing turbine is horrible; makes the car clunk and bang, especially when accelerating / decelerating, and it may also stall completely at stops (as if you were driving a manual car and forgot to step on the clutch while coming to a stop). Typically if the turbine is failing, the car will drive OK at a constant speed, but accelerate/decelerate and it's horrible.
Of course it may not be the trannie, there are engine issues that can have the same effect, but you should be able to tell the difference.

 

check your drop resistor...might not be connected or just dead. mine died randomly and my shifts were all very hard, replaced it and smooth again. goodluck

 

i have been thinking hard about this mann, i wanna change it so bad but it seem like its only a plug, unless i am looking at the wrong thing. i know its right there on the driver side right infront of where the strut mounts. i wanted to take a pic and post it to make sure i got it right but i can post yet.
and how much did you buy yours for? do u have pics or anything that can help?

 

This is a picture of it, taken from Jime's drop resistor mod thread over here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....08878#poststop



I was thinking about replacing mine too. I recall somebody saying you can get it @ the dealership for $35

 

2pb is right. i picked mine up from a salvage yard off an i30 with 40k on it for $15 and it works perfectly. hope this helps and goodluck...

 

another thing you might want to check if you haven't already is how much ATF (auto transmission fluid you have) is in you car. If it is low that could be your problem. Something like this hapened to my dada truck and he ignored it until he completely destroyed the tranny.

 

Yep have that torque converter. I had that problem in my old car. I would drive on the free way then all of a sudden the car will drop rpms quick, shutter then after a minute or so pick back up. It ended up being a front seal leak in the transmission and a bad torque converter.

 

does the milage on it matter? it dont look like a part that wears out.

 

the one i got at the junkyard was clean while the rest looked rusty...you can test it with a voltometer. it's weird because mine looked fine, i didn't test it but i bought that part because it was the cheaper solution to buying the new solenoid valve kit that is a few hundred $$.

 

i've been hearing about that solenoid thing for a while, what is that?