I'm now looking into the exhaust system for my drag car.

Last year i ran a warpspeed y-pipe with no cat or b-pipe. I gained about 2 tenths over runing with the cat and b-pipe. It did hurt my low end though and my 60ft showed that.

I don't want to trailer the car to the strip and would like to drive it around town for weekend nights so noise is also a concern.

So with all that in mind what can i change?

I was toying with the idea of a equal length pipes from the manifold and a resonator for each pipe. I have a feeling this will still be to loud.

So i need some opinions.

 

I would go TRUE dual exhaust with an Xpipe, two resonators and two mufflers. It should still be quiet.

 

A cutout? A good one, not one of those brands prone to leaking.

 

I looked into a cutout but i would need a window switch. I would also need to do alot of testing on when it would need to be opened and closed. I think thers more power to come from a good setup though. I also don't want an exhaust system that's going to be heavy so the shrter the better.

 

I just disconnect the header to cat flange, drop the cat and connect with 1 bolt. Easy to do and cheap.

 

i say run open header...my bro runs it on his street car and it isnt as loud as u would think

 

THats what i did last year but i lost alot of low end torque

 

On a n/a car it is very loud. I don't see how you would think otherwise unless your brother has a turbo car.

 

i ran my car once without the cat back on and it was hella loud, if you removed the cat or even the y it would be loud as fawk

 

I thought you said "ultimate exhaust for a drag car" not better exhaust for a street car.

allen

 

I would do the cut out, it would be cheaper anyways. You can get a nice cut out for about 200 bucks. Pick your size carefully though...I'm not sure what you mean by a window switch. You only need a little toggle, or even a push button.

Another choice, similiar toa cut out, is to use a TB. Use it as a cut out, it's cheaper, and more simple anyways.

 

hey tavi, kind of OT, but are you also on the MX-6 forums?

 

I would need a window switch so that the cutout is only open after a certain rpm. I want to get rid of the low end loss i get with open exhaust.

 

This car will not be by any means a street car. I want to be able to drive it to the track though which is only 7 miles from my house. I know that i will get weekend calls when evryones is going out of town racing.

 

Dual exhaust will be more weight than it will gain in power. Therefore will be slower. I could be wrong, but probably not worth it.

A Manual Cutout (unbolt it under the car) would probably be the cheapest and simplest drag exhaust. Headers might not be a bad idea.

 

maximas arent all that loud lol...its not like a honda or acura.....

 

Your estimate of 2 tenths when you unbolt your catback sounds spot on with my results.

I have an electric cutout. When I open it, I shave .15 every single time in the 1/4 mile. I put my cutout in place of my cat, in a testpipe.

I do experience low end power loss, but the gain in top end EASILY makes up for it since I don't spend much time below 4000 rpm in 1st gear. I launch at 2900 rpm WITH 22" tires on my front. So I can't feel the loss in low end nor can I see a difference in my 60 foot times. And my car is one of the most consistant imports out there. I use to bracket race a lot in my Maxima. So it was easy for me to do calculations like this.

My advice is to either continue to run your open exhaust or get an electric cutout. If this is a serious drag car and FWD, then your loss in low end power shouldn't be much of a problem. I mean, if you are running slicks and trying to cut 1.6 60 foot times, then tweaking your power curve to allow you to gain traction should be the #1 thing on your mind.

Are you running slicks? Do you chirp the tires off the line? If you are having traction problems at all, fix that first. Then you can accurately figure in the loss in low end power and you will be able to duplicate the EXACT same 60 foot run after run like I do all the time. I am usually within one hundredth on my 60 foot times when I ran my drag radials in a street bracket racing class. I would chirp them sometimes and sometimes not. But with slicks, that issue has been solved.

I've fixed my low end power problems by going with a high stall torque converter, perfect traction, and very short gearing.

They do make a boost activated electric cutout. That would be good if you are FI'd. Look into ATP's website. I remember seeing that product near the bottom of their main page.