3.5 swap needs fine tuning plz help!!
3.5 swap needs fine tuning plz help!!
Hi guys, I have my 3.5 swap done 2 weeks ago and have been driving it 3 days a week. All seems fine but I have 3 issues. 1) When i start it up, i need to press on the gas and keep the idle at 1000 to 1500 rpm manually and then after a minute, i can let go of the gas without it stalling. 2) sometimes, my idle will drop below 500 rpm and if i go to a stop then my engine will cut off even if i have my foot on the clutch pedal. 3) my engine backfires alot...could i be running too rich?
Thx for all the feedback guys
B.
Thx for all the feedback guys

B.
What are you using for idle control?
Backfiring is possibly due to valve overlap. Depending on how your intake cams were drilled, you probably have considerably more valve overlap than the VQ30 you replaced. If it is just some burbling and popping out through the exhaust when backing off the throttle I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Backfiring is possibly due to valve overlap. Depending on how your intake cams were drilled, you probably have considerably more valve overlap than the VQ30 you replaced. If it is just some burbling and popping out through the exhaust when backing off the throttle I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Originally Posted by nismology
Your timing might be off. See if you can borrow a timing light from someone.
Edit: You're right stephen max. The timing could be on point as far as the ECU and crank postion relative to cam sprocket postion is concerned and still be off if the drilling job was botched.
Originally Posted by nismology
Just to clarify i was referring to cam timing. This would subsequently throw the ignition timing out of whack and would be made apparent by using a timing light.
Edit: You're right stephen max. The timing could be on point as far as the ECU and crank postion relative to cam sprocket postion is concerned and still be off if the drilling job was botched.
Edit: You're right stephen max. The timing could be on point as far as the ECU and crank postion relative to cam sprocket postion is concerned and still be off if the drilling job was botched.

Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Having more valve overlap than the oem VQ30 is not necessarily botched. When drilling the intake cams you have to make a decision about intake cam timing. Advancing the intake cam (which will also increase valve overlap) results in efficient high rpm breathing at the expense of torque and idling smoothness. It could also result in some backfiring when backing off the throttle. Retarding the intake cam will give good idling stability and good torque, but at the expense of power. A compromise has to be made.
Originally Posted by nismology
I understand the theory of cam timing. But i'd be pretty upset if i had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling at start-up.
I think that is probably due to IACV issues.
Thanks guys, That really helps. Indeed, the backfire is heard when i let go of the throttle. I'm glad i don't have to worry about that. As for the drilling, i sent them to Tilley so i guess that it is good. You guys are right on the money with the IACV. It is off right now. Still trying to figure out how to add it to my setup. Doesn't seem to have a place where i can put it on the 3.5 IM. If i find a way to add the IACV, do you guys think it will fix my stalling problem when i slow down or go to brake? This problem only seems to appear after an hour of drive or so in the city.
Originally Posted by chris'smax
So when you re-drill my cams for me they will not be in the original position?
Originally Posted by Maxpower96
You guys are right on the money with the IACV. It is off right now. Still trying to figure out how to add it to my setup. Doesn't seem to have a place where i can put it on the 3.5 IM. If i find a way to add the IACV, do you guys think it will fix my stalling problem when i slow down or go to brake? This problem only seems to appear after an hour of drive or so in the city.
I think adding the IACV will fix your problems.
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
I think that is probably due to IACV issues.
To those who did the swap, where and how did you install the IACV??? thx
This is how I did it:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=408291
Look at the last picture in the first post of the thread. The IACV is mounted to a plate that you can see on the backside of the intake manifold towards the passenger side.
Originally Posted by nismology
I know of at least one 3.5 swapper that is running sans IACV and doesn't have to hold his pedal down during cold start-up.

If you have the throttle butterfly plate opened far enough you won't need to, but idle speed increases a couple hundred rpm as the engine warms up, depending on how cold the weather is. How high is his idle with a warm engine?
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
If you have the throttle butterfly plate opened far enough you won't need to, but idle speed increases a couple hundred rpm as the engine warms up, depending on how cold the weather is. How high is his idle with a warm engine?
BTW I am using a modded 2k2 TB, and no IACV. (no fast cam idle etc)
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no insight?

