Hey everyone,

I've had a Beck Arnely starter in my max ever since I completed my tranny swap in fall '04. About a month ago it went out on me intermittently. I assumed solenoid since tapping it caused it to start 1/2 the time. Well, I got 2 replacements under warranty and now it won't start at all. I can still drive it; I just look like Gomer Pile when I pop the hood to start my car with an old cotter pin (bypassing the ignition signal).

I took it to Nissan because I have a friend that works there... he says it's the starter. I went back to the parts shop where I bought the Beck... they won't swap it for another because it bench tests 100%. Neither was any help. Looks like I gotta diagnose it myself, which sux because I work 50+ hrs a week and never have any time. Luckily I have a few friends at the org. that could lend a hand.

Here's what I've done so far...

(1) Replaced the battery since it tested low and was under warranty
(2) Replaced the clutch interlock switch and rechecked my connections
(3) Replaced the interlock relay ('Start' relay)
(4) Stripped and rewired my bypass of the park/neutral switch
(5) Had my latest upgrade (Passport Zr3 Laser Shifter) reinstalled under
warranty. The tech originally cut the power wire in my aftermarket
alarm and spliced the Zr3's power wire in with a twist, electrical tape,
and a zip tie. And some other sticky substance, possibly bubble gum...
Anyways, it is now soldered into the cig lighter.
(6) Replaced the battery ground. Cleaned the bracket and mounting points
(7) Bought a test light and a continuity tester

It turns out my ignition switch is sending 12v to the solenoid. But, when I snap the connector into place the solenoid is only reading @ 7.5v. So, do I now go and kick some *** at the part house for not honoring the warranty? Do I fall into Nissan's trap and buy a non-refundable OEM starter that will "fix my problem"? Or do I keep looking? Maybe I should check the interrupt relay, ignition coils, ignition switch, key mechanism, etc. Any suggestions? I'm getting really fed up with this car.

Thanx,

Matt

 

Are you saying with the starter relay harness connected and the key in the "start" position you're getting 7.5v? But if you unplug the harness and put the key in the "start" position then you'll get 12v.

Without being 100% sure, for some reason I'm thinking that might be normal because it has something to do with voltage drop.

You seem to have addressed all possible items that's related to a starter not turning and if I was a betting man I would say your BA starter is taking a dive, regardless of how the bench test came out.

 

Well then there is your problem - you need 12 V on the solenoid.

What is happening is that the contacts on your ignition switch has most likely been burned/worn to the point where they can only make high resistance contacts when you turn the key to start the car - with the terminal removed from the solenoid you measure 12V because there is no current flowing, but soon as you connect the solenoid to the wire you get current flowing and the high resistance contact on the ignition switch chewing up the much needed voltage.

Easy to confirm - make up a wire with a spade terminal to replace your starter wire from the ignition switch - touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery (simulating you turning the key) - if the starter is reliable that way, you know where to look.

Ensure safety when you test the starter this way and keep the car in neutral with the emergency brake on.

 

i had a similar problem at one point with my starter, i had bought one from autozone, put it in. car wouldn't start consitantly. took starter back, swapped got another one, same prob. Had the guys at autozone bench test it met there standards.!!!! I was luck in having a friend to get me a OEM nissan started for a fraction of the cost. I know this doesnt give much tech support, but seems like you have covered the bases

 

I'm also betting on ignition switch...

 

There has been a starter problem for some people in the 4th gen forum. The fix was a simple grounding. One wire from neg battery terminal to starter bolt and another wire from neg battery terminal to tranny bolt. Making sure contacts are lightly sanded to improve connection. Most of their starting problems seemed to happen after a tranny swap, or any tranny work.

Here is the link. Check the first few pages and then skip the last couple pages, all the stuff in the middle is people losing their mind trying to figure out the problem:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=452286

 

I really agree with the grounding idea and the ignition switch. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the beck too. Looks like I'm gonna have to knock the dust off my fsm tomorrow.

I don't see how the ground would hurt. In fact, it kinda makes sense since splittin' the tranny from the bell housing could affect the groundability of the engine if corrosion set in. Not to mention, its a hell of a lot cheaper then spending $300 on a Nissan starter that might fix my problem.

I'm gonna get into it and work my way from the cheapest fix on up. Hell, I might even just wire in a start button. Well, I'll let you'll know how it works out later.

Thanx everyone

P.S. I posted something about the cruise control rewire for the VE tranny swap if anyone is still interested... lata

 

I just thought I'd let everyone know that its fixed. It was the starter all along. I put in a nissan part and the beast screamed to life. Also, I found a few cracked vacuum hoses in the process. Nothing like a $2, 20hp upgrade lol.

Now the fun begins. I get to go have a talk with the ***** that sold me the beck arnley, gave me two more bad starters, and refused to replace another under warranty because It had to be my car.