Got the car all finished up and we started it up, but is misfiring. It cranks up and runs for a couple of seconds then starts to bog and dies. We are getting a cel for cam position sensor. At first i figured it was the maf since we had to lengthen the maf wires for the cold air setup on the SC, but since there is a cel for cam position sensor i guess that should be the starting point.


Any suggestions on what to look for? My clip that goes on to the sensor is messed up so the clip will go on the sensor but it will not click to look it on. Could that cause a distortion in the signal if it is not 100% on?

 

i would suggest fixing that, then see if it gets better

 

Dude, I seriously hope it's not your cams themselves. Upon my first install of my JWT cams, that's how it went, too. It cranked and started up for a few seconds, but it was bogging and car has very harsh shaking and idling till it just dies out. No cel's, though. Then we couldn't figure out what's wrong till we end up taking off the assemblies to get to the cams. Then It was a snapped long intake cam.

I'm not trying to paint pictures with my brush, but what I described was exactly what happend on my first install. With a snapped intake cam, car fights to start, but bogs down to die off. I really hope that it's not the same case for you. Best wishes, Chris.

 

Does it rev when you press the gas? That would be a good way to tell if the cams are okay. Hopefully it's something simple. Alot of times it is.

 

for me it was my crank position sensor(ref) was installed wrong way and crank position(pos) was faulty.so i'd check those to if it revs.

 

I think he said the car revs up(not as smoothly as it should), but once it comes back down to idle it starts to bog. I don't think it is the connector becuase it stays on the sensor semi-securely, but it doesn't lock down. I just want my fuking car back.


What ever the problem is i am sure it is being compounded by the fact that i have installed the nismo cams which requires the idle to be raised to 900rpm

 

Have you tried cleaning the sensor? Make sure it is grounded good.

 

It's not a fuel tuning problem is it?

 

when flooring it does it kinda stuggle to go past a certain rpm like an rev limiter?

 

It shouldn't be since the FP is set the same as it was before and the emanage is still set i would assume since we didn't mess with it. The reason i say it is the cam pos sensor is because i wasn't getting a code before the swap and i am now getting the code.

 

no we havent even taken it off the rack yet since it doesn't stay running. We don't want to rev it to high until we get the car running consistent. Right now it just runs for a couple of seconds and then dies out.

 

The cams kill the idle until you get it raised. Put a spacer under the stopper on the TB to keep the rpms up and see if it will stay running.

 

can you describe what you experienced. I know it may be hard to but it may help me narrow down the possibilities. I expected this would be a problem but i didn't think it would act like this.

 

just go to your throttle adjustments and move that screw a little outwards to open up the throttle slightly more at rest position. other than that, you'd have to set your idle rpms from the IACV, if you have one from the 3.5L. You can also turn your ECU's reset screw to set the rpms there. Hope everything will be ok. It's time to see your car running and you need to redemption your attendance at our local meets. LOL.

 

I know before i did the motor swap i would have had to used consult 2 to raise my idle since i didn't have a adjustment screw like the 4th gen. i am running the PF throttle body now but i don't think it has a adjustment screw either. Or does it?

 

they all should have one even the 3.5 engine

 

Yup, even my electronic DBW TB has a tiny adjustment screw.

 

I battled with the idle for several days. The car would stay running once it was completely warm, but wanted to die until then. When driving while coming to a stop it would always want to die. I would adjust the screw on the TB, but it would never stay at that idle, the ecu will fight you. I sort of followed the IACV relearn procedure from the FSM. You have to unplug the TPS when you make adjustments to the IACV and TB screw. Several days of playing with that and I finally got it. It starts and drives completely normal. I believe my idle is between 750-800rpm, but I will have to check. I never did get any codes during that though.

 

man that sucks.i set mine once to help first start the car found out it was @ 2350rpms and then later when when i started fine at 800rpms.but that screw is a pita.