Considering the EMU as first performance mod
Considering the EMU as first performance mod
My max is in desperate need of some performance mods. I've got an inspection coming soon so im holding off on the Y-pipe. Should nothing like an accident happen in the near future, I would like to add some boost but for now its staying NA. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I've read, the VQ30 is a good engine... capable of 6psi (or is it 12psi with a bigger exhaust) on stock internals. So wouldn't this mean the VQ could handle reving to 7500rpm on the stock internals? Also, I though I read that after 5k the engine starts to run real rich and that leaning out the A/F mixture >5k can gain some hp. If this is all true it would seem like getting the EMU first would be a good idea seeing that I could transfer the EMU to anyother car (should I stop modding the car or get a new car in the future) and fixing the A/F mixture has to help of all around driving, not just racing.
Any thouhts or opinions are welcome.
Any thouhts or opinions are welcome.
The thing that holds back the VQ30 from reliable 7500rpm revs is it's heavier valvetrain and weaker oil pump. You would be safer if you held it to about 7200 unless you use a VQ35 oil pump and lighten the valvetrain.
I think going to the EU is a good idea for a starting point. Because that way you'll actually learn more about what each new mod does and you'll always be able to make the most out of them.
You certainly won't be following the norm here which is slap on as many parts as you can and pray they add up to something good.
I think going to the EU is a good idea for a starting point. Because that way you'll actually learn more about what each new mod does and you'll always be able to make the most out of them.
You certainly won't be following the norm here which is slap on as many parts as you can and pray they add up to something good.
He's baaack.....

To the OP: your A/F will be just fine for normal driving since it's closed loop (O2 sensor feedback). You would only need to adjust A/F under WOT. And while the EU is a worthwhile purchase, for most people it is difficult to just jump right in with it unless you have prior knowledge/experience with wiring and tuning a car. It's nowhere near as simple as bolting on an intake or similar. Just mentioning it FWIW...

To the OP: your A/F will be just fine for normal driving since it's closed loop (O2 sensor feedback). You would only need to adjust A/F under WOT. And while the EU is a worthwhile purchase, for most people it is difficult to just jump right in with it unless you have prior knowledge/experience with wiring and tuning a car. It's nowhere near as simple as bolting on an intake or similar. Just mentioning it FWIW...
Originally Posted by 2slow4u
Now i noticed someone stated use the 3.5 oil pump can you use it without modifications?
I was always under the impression that the stock ECU had a pretty flat AF line from the factory, I am sure he can tweak a few HP out of it tho.
I hope you are good with wires.
I hope you are good with wires.
It is pretty flat, but on the rich side. With no correction on the SAFC, I had my a/f at stoich up to 3000, then it dropped as the ECU switched to open loop. From about 3800-redline it held it pretty flat at 12.0:1 on my car. But then again, my car wasnt bone stock when I first dynoed. I'd love to see what the a/f looks like on a bone stock 4th gen
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
The thing that holds back the VQ30 from reliable 7500rpm revs is it's heavier valvetrain and weaker oil pump. You would be safer if you held it to about 7200 unless you use a VQ35 oil pump and lighten the valvetrain.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I think going to the EU is a good idea for a starting point. Because that way you'll actually learn more about what each new mod does and you'll always be able to make the most out of them.
You certainly won't be following the norm here which is slap on as many parts as you can and pray they add up to something good.
You certainly won't be following the norm here which is slap on as many parts as you can and pray they add up to something good.
Do I still need the 17deg timeing advance w/ the ConsultII or can I do that equivelent with the EMU? I am very comfortable with electronics/wiring in cars, I think I could handle the install. Its the mechanical/tuning of cars that Im new with.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
It be interesting to se what a stock A32 could do. Stock meaning no bolt ons, just EMU 'conditioning'.
I vote no on the EU as a first mod, if interested in improving power or faster 1/4 times, ie not just to screw around/learn more about engine controllers.
Get a Ypipe(or if you have the $$$ headers) and a JWT/Stillen POP charger first. Then I'd say get an EU and start playing with your AFR/timing.
Get a Ypipe(or if you have the $$$ headers) and a JWT/Stillen POP charger first. Then I'd say get an EU and start playing with your AFR/timing.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I vote no on the EU as a first mod, if interested in improving power or faster 1/4 times, ie not just to screw around/learn more about engine controllers.
Get a Ypipe(or if you have the $$$ headers) and a JWT/Stillen POP charger first. Then I'd say get an EU and start playing with your AFR/timing.
Get a Ypipe(or if you have the $$$ headers) and a JWT/Stillen POP charger first. Then I'd say get an EU and start playing with your AFR/timing.
Im going to be installing my 8" widescreen touchscreen LCD and car computer soon so since most of the interior was going to be out to route wires it would be a good time to wire up the EMU.
Too bad i chopped up my air box and ditched my resonator and cant give you guys a real pre bolt-on dyno with just A/F tuning
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
8" widescreen and....and thinking of EMU for a mod.. 

Project B is get the Max some more ponies. The EMU would be sweet to have and would integrate into the dash LCD so I dont have to have a laptop floating around in my car to data log and tune with.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
So what will happen next year for inspection?
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