How import is it that you properly torque your screws to the correct ft lbs per inch or whatever?

I just took off my upper and lower manifolds and took out my egr pipe and a lot of the egr system.
I also removed one of the plates on the engine to where my spark plugs go in. i dont know why i removed this, i think i was confused.

im tempted just to screw everything all in tightly and call it done.

 

Find someone with a torque wrench. You don't want parts falling off your max when your driving.

 

I have a torque wrench.

There is also a tightening order to go by on the top part, the upper plunum-
Its 4-1-2-3 on the front 4 bolts.

@ 13 - 16 ft lbs

I'm not sure about the back 2 but the 2 EGR bolt are 15 - 20 ft lbs

Throttle body sequence is

3-1
2-4

@ 13 - 16 ft lbs

I'm assuming the IACV is the same torque

 

The lower part with 8 bolts is-

5-3-2-7
8-1-4-6

@20 - 23 ft lbs

 

so how bad is it if i ignore the torque specifications and just tighten everything up real nice instead?

 

Real nice is not 15ft/lbs, you may snap one.

 

you gotta becareful on some bolts. Rear main seal bolt is to be tq'ed to ~80ft/lbs. At around 50ft/lbs the bolt snapped. . . .

 

I may snap what?

so 15ft/lbs isnt that tight then? (i have no idea what the numbers mean)

dangit i would have never taken apart my car if i had known i'd need to buy torque wrenches and go digging thru a service manual looking for numbers and properly torquing things.

so the head just snaps off the rest of the bolt then? Dang!

 

I told you what all the torque numbers were! See above posts.

 

You can get a torque wrench from walmart for about $20

 

Sorry... This is going in my sig.

I'm glad the following story happened a while back so that I can feel like slightly less of an idiot for telling it.

Yes, they just snap. It happened to me TWICE on the upper manifold bolts (when I had my original engine), with a torque wrench set to 25 lb-ft. Not even 50. 25.

I needed my car after that, so I had to C-clamp the one side of the upper IM.

Of course the C-clamp eventually came off, and part of the gasket got sucked into one of the intake runners. Needless to say, the car died. I was lucky that I could keep coasting for just long enough to float into a parking lot, where some random hobo came by and helped me and my friend fix it. Hell, I was lucky that the gasket didn't break, or that there wasn't any significant debris in the engine bay that could have gotten sucked in.

Those bolts are designed to be soft so that if you have a catastrophic misfire, they will snap and allow the IM to blow off relieve the pressure so that you don't break a piston or rod or something.

That was THE LAST TIME I did anything remotely serious on my car without torque specs.

 

corrected for my typo. plus I edited my original.

 

Well you've also gotta use some common sense with these things. For reference, the maximum recommended torque for the crossmember-to-frame bolts is 72 lb-ft. There's no way that those tiny RMS bolts could handle 80 lb-ft. Maybe you meant 80 in-lb? Cus the spec is 75-95 in-lb.

 

for not converting.

 

LOLz I can see you just going to town on a tiny ass bolt Deezy.

 

and breaking the hell out of them

 

Thanks. Now the only thing else I gotta figure out is the EGR tube, and the back cover for the engine (where the back spark plugs are), cuz I took that off too for some stupid reason. heh. I found a friend who has a torque wrench though so that should help.

so where did you find these numbers?

Noticed you were from St Paul too, wohoo! -although the winters here arent very good to our cars

 

The EGR tube bolts are 15 to 20 ft lbs. I'm not sure what you mean by the back cover, but just use common sense on those whatever they are. If they look like all the other bolts that are 15 ft lbs then I would stick with that number, if they are smaller bolts then be carefull!

I have a link to an FSM that I got all these numbers from.

I was wondering if you noticed that I was from St Paul! Rust is starting to go to work on the max I have it starting under the spoiler now. One trick to do is rub polishing compound on it and it comes right off then seal it with wax for a temparary fix. Salt here sucks.