Torquing the Screws on the manifold
#1
Torquing the Screws on the manifold
How import is it that you properly torque your screws to the correct ft lbs per inch or whatever?
I just took off my upper and lower manifolds and took out my egr pipe and a lot of the egr system.
I also removed one of the plates on the engine to where my spark plugs go in. i dont know why i removed this, i think i was confused.
im tempted just to screw everything all in tightly and call it done.
I just took off my upper and lower manifolds and took out my egr pipe and a lot of the egr system.
I also removed one of the plates on the engine to where my spark plugs go in. i dont know why i removed this, i think i was confused.
im tempted just to screw everything all in tightly and call it done.
#3
I have a torque wrench.
There is also a tightening order to go by on the top part, the upper plunum-
Its 4-1-2-3 on the front 4 bolts.
@ 13 - 16 ft lbs
I'm not sure about the back 2 but the 2 EGR bolt are 15 - 20 ft lbs
Throttle body sequence is
3-1
2-4
@ 13 - 16 ft lbs
I'm assuming the IACV is the same torque
There is also a tightening order to go by on the top part, the upper plunum-
Its 4-1-2-3 on the front 4 bolts.
@ 13 - 16 ft lbs
I'm not sure about the back 2 but the 2 EGR bolt are 15 - 20 ft lbs
Throttle body sequence is
3-1
2-4
@ 13 - 16 ft lbs
I'm assuming the IACV is the same torque
#8
Originally Posted by Fr33way
Real nice is not 15ft/lbs, you may snap one.
so 15ft/lbs isnt that tight then? (i have no idea what the numbers mean)
dangit i would have never taken apart my car if i had known i'd need to buy torque wrenches and go digging thru a service manual looking for numbers and properly torquing things.
Originally Posted by MDeezy
you gotta becareful on some bolts. Rear main seal bolt is to be tq'ed to ~8ft/lbs. At around 50ft/lbs the bolt snapped. . . .
#11
Originally Posted by krillbee
dangit i would have never taken apart my car if i had known i'd need to buy torque wrenches and go digging thru a service manual looking for numbers and properly torquing things.
Sorry... This is going in my sig.
Originally Posted by krillbee
so the head just snaps off the rest of the bolt then?
Yes, they just snap. It happened to me TWICE on the upper manifold bolts (when I had my original engine), with a torque wrench set to 25 lb-ft. Not even 50. 25.
I needed my car after that, so I had to C-clamp the one side of the upper IM.
Of course the C-clamp eventually came off, and part of the gasket got sucked into one of the intake runners. Needless to say, the car died. I was lucky that I could keep coasting for just long enough to float into a parking lot, where some random hobo came by and helped me and my friend fix it. Hell, I was lucky that the gasket didn't break, or that there wasn't any significant debris in the engine bay that could have gotten sucked in.
Those bolts are designed to be soft so that if you have a catastrophic misfire, they will snap and allow the IM to blow off relieve the pressure so that you don't break a piston or rod or something.
That was THE LAST TIME I did anything remotely serious on my car without torque specs.
#12
Originally Posted by MDeezy
you gotta becareful on some bolts. Rear main seal bolt is to be tq'ed to ~80ft/lbs. At around 50ft/lbs the bolt snapped. . . .
#13
Originally Posted by MDeezy
you gotta becareful on some bolts. Rear main seal bolt is to be tq'ed to ~80ft/lbs. At around 50ft/lbs the bolt snapped. . . .
#14
Originally Posted by nismology
Well you've also gotta use some common sense with these things. For reference, the maximum recommended torque for the crossmember-to-frame bolts is 72 lb-ft. There's no way that those tiny RMS bolts could handle 80 lb-ft. Maybe you meant 80 in-lb? Cus the spec is 75-95 in-lb.
#17
Originally Posted by crazy97
The lower part with 8 bolts is-
5-3-2-7
8-1-4-6
@20 - 23 ft lbs
5-3-2-7
8-1-4-6
@20 - 23 ft lbs
Thanks. Now the only thing else I gotta figure out is the EGR tube, and the back cover for the engine (where the back spark plugs are), cuz I took that off too for some stupid reason. heh. I found a friend who has a torque wrench though so that should help.
so where did you find these numbers?
Noticed you were from St Paul too, wohoo! -although the winters here arent very good to our cars
#18
Originally Posted by krillbee
Thanks. Now the only thing else I gotta figure out is the EGR tube, and the back cover for the engine (where the back spark plugs are), cuz I took that off too for some stupid reason. heh. I found a friend who has a torque wrench though so that should help.
so where did you find these numbers?
Noticed you were from St Paul too, wohoo! -although the winters here arent very good to our cars
so where did you find these numbers?
Noticed you were from St Paul too, wohoo! -although the winters here arent very good to our cars
I have a link to an FSM that I got all these numbers from.
I was wondering if you noticed that I was from St Paul! Rust is starting to go to work on the max I have it starting under the spoiler now. One trick to do is rub polishing compound on it and it comes right off then seal it with wax for a temparary fix. Salt here sucks.
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