I JUST got an alignment a week ago, and now my cv boot tore open. I need to replace the driver side axle because of the ripped boot. My question is, how do I do this without having to do an alignment again? Does anyone have links to a good write up?

Thanks

 

of course.. youi dont even mess with the tie rods when changing an axle.... dont even worry about it... i replaced both axles and took it in just to make sure and it was still perfect

 

do you mind providing me with a quick step by step so that i dont have to touch the tie rod ends? thanks

 

Loosen lug nuts.
Jack the car up
Remove your wheels.
Remove the cotter pin from the center of the rotor area
Remove the cotter pin from the bolt that connects the Knuckle and the Tie rod.(dont spin tie rod)
Insert the screw driver into the rotor (in those little holes around the top)
Remove that Huge Nut in the center of the rotor. (1-1/2 inch socket and a breaker bar will be necessary)(or a pipe, LOL)
Get the washer off and keep it clean.
Remove the nut that holds the tie rod on.(dont spin the tie rod)
Use your tie rod remover (pickle fork) to loosen it on the knuckle. Then pull it apart.
Remove the 2 bolts that join the suspension to the Knuckle area.
Fold the knuckle (brake assembly) area out of the way while LIGHTLY banging on the end of the big threaded shaft you removed the large nut from
Don't screw up the threads. You can protect them by putting the nut back on and making it even w/ the end.
You should now have the driveshaft hanging free on the outsides of the car.
On the driver's side, push the driveshaft in a little bit (It compresses), and yank it out – you might have to do it a few times before it comes free. (It will POP out)
3.16 Remove that driveshaft and be very careful not to break the rubber boots

courtesy of hlh's 5 speed swap site edited my me.

 

man all you do is remove the wheel
remove conner pin
loosen the 36 mm bolt
remove the two bolts from the strut
then just play around with the axle till it comes out...
simple 15 minutes of work...

 

You should consider getting a lifetime alignment. They usually run about $140-200. See if the shop you took it to offers that and see if they would be cool with making a deal with you to pay the difference.

You need to get an alignment or else you'll be buying new tires in a few months.

 

Not after replacing cv shafts....

 

i took out both my axles to do my clutch job. didn't even touch the tie-rods, and put in new control arm bushings and still haven't gotten an alignment nor do i need one.

 

I don't like them, but you could opt for a split(quick) boot replacement. You don't even have to remove the axle.

 

I am not going to touch my tie rods at all. The only possible play I can see is going to occur between the steering knuckle and the strut, but I suppose that is very minimal. Some argue otherwise.

 

Hey guys, instead of removing the steering knuckle from strut, how about disconnecting the ball joint from the steering knuckle? Apparently this way doesn't require an alignment after?

 

That's another way to do it. Both methods don't require alignments.

 

Hey can you take a look at the below write up and tell me if this would require an alignment?

1) Remove and discard the cotter pin from the CV shaft.
2) Remove the sheet metal castle nut.
3) Use 36mm Deep socket with breaker bar to remove axle nut
4) Remove the 2 large bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle.
5) Remove the clip that holds the brake line
6) Using a large screw driver, pry the steering knuckle from the strut.
7) Pull the steering knuckle away from the car
8) Pull CV shaft from steering knuckle
9) Use a large screw driver to pry out the inner CV
10) Place the new CV shaft in the transmission, and push it in until you hear and feel the click of the retaining clip.
11) do steps 9 through 1 backwards

 

yea the tie rods and ball joints stay intact...and since camber isnt adjustable take the strut bolts out does nada for alignment