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how hard is it to replace tie-rod ends?

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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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how hard is it to replace tie-rod ends?

i think mine needs replacment.......my wheels move to and fro when lifted off the ground. how hars it is to replace them, and what is all involved
Old Jul 12, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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its easy... but u NEED to get an alignment afterwards.. the best way do it it is count how many threads are left on each side right after the bolt.. then when u reinstall them set it to the same number....
Old Jul 12, 2006 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ManualMaxima
i think mine needs replacment.......my wheels move to and fro when lifted off the ground. how hars it is to replace them, and what is all involved
They are very easy, especially if you have the right tools. You can get either a tie-rod end separator (it looks like a two-pronged steel fork) or you can use a jaw-type puller to separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle.

However, it might not be the tie-rod end. I had an 88 Max that did the same thing yours is doing (wheels moving to and fro when lifted off the ground) and it was actually a wheel bearing that was going out. You should be able to tell if the tie-rod ends are bad by examining the rubber parts- cracked, torn, etc. Make sure it is not a wheel bearing, because if those things go, your whole wheel could come off.

I would replace the cotter pins with new ones, and like the above post said, mark where the tie rod end is with some white-out or something like that. It may save you an alignment.

Quick tip- use the steering wheel to turn the wheel for better access to the tie-rod end.
Old Jul 12, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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To and Fro movement is more a sign of a wheel bearing.

Tie rod ends are cake job. Forget the seperator. They are a waste of time. Just use a hammer to hit the steering knuckle until the tie rod end pops out. I will bet you that 99% of real mechanics do it this way. I learned that technique from a guy with 25 years of experience and he is ASE Certified. Also works for ball joints.
Old Jul 12, 2006 | 11:42 AM
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Also it may be handy to have a small torch near by. I replaced one on a I30 that needed to be heated up before it would break loose from the tie rod.
Old Jul 12, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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bro let me tell ya... dont get any cheap A$$ tie rods.. i just finished my brakes and i took a quick look a the tie rods i put in a bout 4 monts ago.. the boots are alrealdy cracked and grease is coming out of them...WTF never again am i gonna buy anything like that form ebay or anywhere else like that...
Old Jul 12, 2006 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
To and Fro movement is more a sign of a wheel bearing.

Tie rod ends are cake job. Forget the seperator. They are a waste of time. Just use a hammer to hit the steering knuckle until the tie rod end pops out. I will bet you that 99% of real mechanics do it this way. I learned that technique from a guy with 25 years of experience and he is ASE Certified. Also works for ball joints.
unless u have a pickle fork attachment for ur air hammer
Old Jul 12, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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I just had the tie-rod and ball-joint replaced on my 96, and the mechanics use a big ol' hammer. Seems to know what he was doing.
Old Jul 13, 2006 | 05:07 AM
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anyone have a picture of this so i can check my car out

i havent worked on my suspention much at all, but i have to do it because the car is becoming worse on the road, not sure what it is.
Old Jul 13, 2006 | 05:29 AM
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good tip on checking ball joints and tie rods.......
to check Ball Joint....jack the car up and grab the wheel North and South Poles and try to move in like a tilting motion......to check Tie Rods...grab the wheels East and West Poles and try to move back and forth like the twist
Old Jul 13, 2006 | 08:51 AM
  #11  
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When I changed tie rod ends on my Nissan pickup the replacement ends were a different length from the ones that were on the truck. These were dealer supplied too. So , counting the thread turns may not get you back into alignment.
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