My transmission has had a small leak for a little over a year now. It was noticed ~4 months after I had a nissan dealer replace both of my axles (worn cv boots), a job that I should have done myself. Since then I have had Nissan top off the fluid every ~6 months, and so far it has always been above minimum at that interval. I drive quite a bit, but almost all of it is highway.

I tried to check the fluid level myself by removing the 1/2" drive plug, but everytime I do some fluid leaks out, supposedly meaning full. I have tried with car on ground, car on front jacks, car all the way jacked up.

So I have paid Nissan twice now to fill it up, and both times I asked if my transmission needed rebuilding, and both times they assured me it was simply the drive axle seal. I bought two the seals this week, and set out tonight to change the drivers side one. After reading some guides, I realized I didn't have the 36mm socket that is required and the hardware store is closed. So I did some other maintenance I have been planning (spark plug tube seals), and while my car was jacked up I did an inspection of the leaking axle seal. The tranmission fluid is leaking out of the bottom of the seal.

When I push the axle up (at the rusted gold part as mentioned here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=487294 ) it does not move, and when I push it towards the front of the car, still no movement. When I push it towards the floor (and towards the leak) it moves ~1mm, maybe less, and no fluid comes out. This was with the car jacked up on the fronts only.

So what do you guys think? The car has 123K miles on it, I purchased it at 88K, but unfortunately no records came with the car, though I am only the second owner. Also, I had a new clutch installed at ~95K miles as the original one was slipping quite a bit. Is it rebuild time, or should I keep milking it along for a few more years, as it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, and has very little play in the axle. Also, should I try just replacing the seal to stop the leak? Or would that not be worth the effort to remove the axle? On the plus side, at least I would learn how to do that, helping me to remove my transmission at a later date for a rebuild.

I'll try to take pictures on Monday when I'm back from a road trip to Cedar Point.

 

Play in any direction (even down) is play. Nissan dealer probably doesn't do much tranny work, which is why they don't 'get' it.

If you have the money to rebuild it, and you want to keep the car for a while (50k or more), rebuild it now. The longer you wait, the more money it will cost you later. It's a pity that it wasn't opened up to be inspected when the clutch was changed - it would have told you all you need to know for an additional $50 in labor.

Given the cost of a rebuild though, it's worth first pulling the axle and installing a new seal just to see if it solves the problem. But since you say there is a little wiggle room I doubt it will.

Dave

 

Replacing that seal is really easy. just pull the wheel off, the 36mm nut and the two bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle. Then use a ratchet extension or something like that and a rubber mallet to tap the axle out of the steering knuckle. Then a pry bar to pry the axle out of the tranny. (draining tranny first is better). Use a screw driver to pry the old seal out. Pop the new one in. Use old one to help work it in.
You should pick up a 3' pipe to use as a breaker bar for that 36mm nut. And tighten the crap out of it when you put it back on. 100lbs on 3' breaker bar should do it. Could be that they banged up the old one when putting in your axle. (so be careful when you do it)

 

Or they put a screw driver into it hoping for more work.

If there is ANY play, then you need a rebuilt. If it doesn't move, then all you need is a $15 seal, and 2 hrs of labour.

I just replaced mine about 2 months ago - there was no play, just the seal was weeping, and so was the reverse sensor. (It's pretty dry here in Alberta).

Forkster

 

replace the trans man.mine had a lil play and I jus replaced mine after the diff bearing exploded

 

If the transmission is working right , no question in my mind, save your time and money and just change the seal. It probably will last a long time yet and I've seen a lot of rebuilt transmisions have new problems related to being disassembled and something not being put back together just right.

 

I had a tranny leak and motor leak. One was the rear main seal which was replaced at the same time the clutch was. While doing that both my axles came out, they apperaed in good condition and all. I asked the mechanic if i need to change the seals and he said no there fine....3 weeks later i'm leaking tranny oil. It was those damn seals. The drivers one is pretty easy, but the pass side was a pita. All if fine after i replaced the seals, there fairly cheap and i'd do that before every rebuilding or buying a new tranny. Good Luck.

 

Did 2 seals on the right. Don't use non OEM! I rented the drift, but handle was too short. I found a pipe that fit over the handle of the drift, bolted on the mid carrier with a shop rag wrap through the hole to help keep things straight, and slow knocked it in. Did fine tuning with a chunk of broom handle slowly around the edge so it was flush and reasonably square. No leaks since. The left on the other hand...

 

well I think I am going to just replace the seal next weekend. Now I need to buy a 36mm socket though. Any good places for it? On ebay they are ~$20, which sucks, but if I have to, I'll go that route.

 

Autozone = free rental.

 

Good Luck. Drivers side is easy, Pass side is hard as **** to get out.

 

Do the MT have a transmision fluid that i need to replace every maintenance?How to do it and wer can i find a instruction to change the transmision fluid of manual transmision?

 

It should be replaced ever 30-60K depending. There are several guides, including a pretty good one in the Haynes manual.

 

I have a Manual transmision nissan maxima 95 wat type of transmision fluid i need to use for my maxima thanks! Is there any one have a instruction how to drain and replace transmision fluid

 

36mm impact wrench is cheap and works with regular socket drive.