Hello All- Long time no see. been very busy.
So i took the ol' blue maxima out of the garage, it hasnt been driven much lately (prolly twice a month)-for the past 8months.

wanna hear some issues......?
1. Cylinder 1-misfires, only Sometimes... yes, Sometimes..
2. the E-Brake Light is on, But the E-Brake is down
3. the Radio dont work, Unless i come to a stop, RPM's drop to 1k, then works.

what fixes it..........
Well, this sounds bad, But stomping my foot into the gas and tearing it up for a good 5mins,
Result:>>>
1. Coils are all working now.
2. that E-brake light goes off, Cylinders are all firing, Immediate power!!
3. and yeah, THEN radio decides to work...

Oh and the best part..... The car only lasts good like that for 15mins, then it drops back to stupid-mode......

Any ideas? mwest.,

 

alternator

 

Seriously? would this relate to cylinder misfire on occasions though?

im not doubting you, but i am going to read ur posts now to verify ur suggestion lol..

 

lol i wouldn't use your method to try and solve your problems as a long term solution...

 

It was an idea, really though you may have a number of problems... You might have a coil pack going bad, or your plugs are gone... Your alternator may be causing low power when in low RPMs because its worn out thus the power you get when you revv it up and make it work harder. I am not a professional but the logic is there, just my advice. Some one else may know a lot more...

 

check your brake master see if the fluid is full. im not sure about your car but some cars have a floater in the masters reservoir. if its stuck thatll give you a brake light also.

how do you know its cylinder 1? how does it run? did you check spark?

 

1) Check the coil pack, spark plug and fuel injector

2) You need to top off your brake fuild. Low fluid is also an indication of worn pads.

3) Aftermarket system or stock? Aftermarket - I suspect it's the installation.

Your 3 issues are nothing but basic maintenance.

 

Wow this is all new to me. Ive never heard of such a thing. Well I'd check the plugs first and foremost, if you have cheap plugs in there then they might have gone bad. Secondly top off your brake fluid, i know this causes the brake light to turn on when it is low. On the radio thing, I'd check the alternator...

 

its the hood scoop causing your troubles...

 

be careful "topping off" if your pads actually are low, when you go to change them and push in the caliper pistons, you will have brake fluid all over your engine bay

 

Thats the thing, almost ALL maintenance has been done.

1). I always have issues testing the coils but i will try again, i know its misfiring.
2) I just had the entire brake system re-done, all the calipers are new, all the pads.
3) Stock Bose. -installation is fine.

Almost every sensor has been replaced as well. O2, EC, TP, All of em.

Is there a good way to test the altenator? like simple ohms meter test's????
Thanks nj, youve helped me alot in the past, you should know i keep maintence on my ride haha.. wait, that sounded bad.

 

alot of car part stores like pep boys or autozone check your alternator for free. At least my area they do, look around.

 

my 3rd gen the abs ;light would turn on when the alternator was going, may be the same way here. if its been sitting around an bad or fouled plug could cause your cyliner to miss, change it(them) and see if it improves. i know it's OT, but my lawnmower wasnt starting after it sat outside for a while int he rain. i figued i either got water in the lines or the gas dried up, chaged the gas, still nothing, took appart that carb to clean it, still nothing, changed the dam plug and it started right up.............

 

As far as the radio is concerned I would say alternator. Most radio's have an operating range like 11 - 16 volts. Buy a multimeter which will only cost like 10 bucks. Read the voltage while playing around with the throttle. It sounds like the voltage regulator is gone and its over charging. This overcharging could cause several other electrical problems (engine response, misfire, etc). Not to mention your ebrake light was on which is your alternator is dead light.

 

i agree with batxel about the radio. i work in the 12 volt industry so i have a "little" bit of knowledge on this, but yeah, your stock deck wont work below 10-11 volts...if your voltage regulator in your alternator is not working correctly, any voltage drop would cause it to not work...at higher RPMs, the alternator might be working just enough to get the deck working for a short period of time. brake light comes on when your alternator is going bad (along with ABS) so those two might be related...not sure about the cylinder misfire though unless its a voltage issue as well. you can test your volate with a multimeter...can even check for AC voltage...any AC voltage shows burnt out diodes...i.e. your voltage regulation system. easiest way though if you're not into that is to have it tested by an auto parts shop.

 

Hello ALL!!!
So im a loser and paid my house mechanic to look at the car b/c i have no time.
#1 ALTENATOR is shot- $300.00
#2 Injector is bad- $147.00
1.1 LABOR to install this Altenator HAHAHA..... 180.00 (labor only for alt)
2.1 LABOR for that injector........eh....25.00 (front easy inj)

= $652.00 Total Bill.... Did i mention i hardly drive this thing... 3times this whole year.....
Last time i drove it was too his shop for all new calipers , rotors, and raybestos QS pads..... bling$

The max is kinda like a stripper whos only purpose in life is to tease me... Yeah she looks good, but she cant be rode too hard before she expects more money.....

 

$300 is rediculous for an alt.
Labor is a pain, but sohuld only take 1-2 hours tops. I dont know what your mech. is getting a hour but I doubt its $90.
Injectors are not cheap new, but again $147 is a bit high.
$25 is not bad to replace an injector.

$650+ is not something I would even consider at all. But as long as youcar works now. Im a DIY, and it was about $120 for a new alt and about 2 hours of my time.

 

well good to see you have it repaired