I was just multitasking while doing brake work on my car and wasn't thinking as I removed lug nuts. I typically slightly loosen the lugnuts before jacking up the car, but this time I wasn't paying attention and just completely removed 4 of 5 with the car on the ground! The 5th was understandably impossible to remove (since all the weight was still on the car!) and when I tried (thinking the guys that rotated my tires merely way overtorqued my lugnuts) I twisted the lug bolt right off inside the lugnut!

So, long story short, I'm an idiot. Don't try doing work issues and shadetree mechanic simulataneously. Lesson learned.

Anyway, I guess it's time to order a new hub: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/bi...xima+2002+2003

Anyone have a better place to recommend? And is this a DIY job, or do I need a bearing press?

Finally, in the meantime, is it safe to drive w/ 4 lugnuts?

 

Since the stud is off, just buy a new stud. I dont htink you need to buy a whole new hub.

 

Just replace the stud. Common issue. Most shops can do it for cheap if you don't have the tools.

 

dude. they're a buck at the dealer.
get a hammer and smack it till it comes out
put the new one on.
use the lug nut and tighten with the wheel off, this will help press it in place,
put wheel on, tighten like normal, drive off.

this is cake to do.

 

Yeah, who ever rotated your tires probably over torqued that one lug nut to the point where it just snapped off. Those darn shops ... just go trigger happy on 'em air wrenches. That's why I do most of my work, and for whatever reason it needs to be in the shop, I normally losen the nuts and retorque them myself.

 

Ah, the joy of a cheap fix. Problem solved for 3.50! One wheel stud and one lugnut. I didn't realize the wheel studs were removable from the hub. A pleasant surprise. I'm up and running now. Thanks guys.

 

My last car (3 series BMW) used lug bolts, instead of lug nuts.
I snapped one, and had to replace the hub!!

The fix on the MAX is much easier. The auto techs really should
be tightening by hand....lazy b!$#!$#!

 

I break them all the time changing wheels so often for autocross. I always keep handful of them in my tool bag. Takes about 10 minutes to replace...

 

Yea, quick fix...and btw, it is fine to drive with only 4 lugnuts for a while, assuming the 4 lugnuts are torqued correctly. I wouldn't go autocrossing or anything crazy like that but fine for normal driving until you can get it fixed.

 

Housecor, when are you going to post the how-to?

 

As soon as I choose an appropirately catchy title. Say, "How to turn a simple 2 hour job into an afternoon project..."

Seriously though, I just noticed I have an extra pad retainer still attached to my old pads. I know I used one pad retainer on each pad and I thought there was one pad retainer for each pad. Am I missing something?

 

hmmm....I feel like I know that one well


My next how tos:

1. How to replace damn near every part of your suspension and still not get rid of that annoying noise.
2. How to almost begin a transmission rebuilt, only to figure out that it was a loose bolt on the y-pipe hangar making the grinding noise.
3. How to change out a driveaxle, and at the same time dump 4 quarts of manual transmission fluid all over your driveway because you forgot to put a drain pan under the car.
4. How to: What methods do NOT work for removing above-said manual transmission fluid from blacktop.
5. How to spend 45 minutes removing the single bolt holding the ABS sensor on the spindle. Tools required: box-end wrench. flare-nut wrench. propane torch. dremel. drill. Result: bolt drilled out, but plastic part of ABS sensor broke, so had to buy a new one anyways

 

Do you have to remove the brakes and the rotor to get the new lug in?

 

Yes. I had the same thing happen to me, after an alignment done at Town Fair Tire here in Mass. They crossthreaded two of them. When I went to remove my drivers side wheel in order to run wire for my sound system, snapped right off. Went back (scary experience on 4 then 3 studs) and they replaced all the studs on that wheel. Also, I had to replace the rear studs in order for my 15mm spacers, so they are definitely replaceable, but you do have to remove your brake rotors and move your calipers off.

 

Ahh, I know that one all too well. Mie however goes like this.
"How to clean up over 4 quarts of oil spilled all over your concrete driveway because your left the drain pan underneath the car and was too anxious to try out the new struts you also just installed. Oh, don't forget it's your parents driveway cause you're visiting since all of your tools are in thier garage, and they'll be home in a few hours so you're rushing Pulp Fiction style "

You think all of that will fit??

 

All my "How to"s would have an asterik next them. It would say after your finished getting everthing back together, just put those two extra bolts that still have in your hand in a jar as you will need them someday.

Fat

 

I never knew this was such an easy fix and an inexpensive one too. I will definitely keep this in mind if I ever break one of my lug nuts.

 

Actually, no! You just remove the wheel, pound out the old wheel stud with a hammer, insert the new stud, use a few washers on the head, and tighten the lugnut on until the stud is tight against the back of the hub. To clarify, the wheel stud is a pressure fit design, so you need some way to force it into the hole. Easiest way is to use the lugnut to "pull" it tight in the hole. The washers are needed since the closed end lugnut can't screw on far enough to pull the wheel stud tight.

 

Hate to bump a 4 year old thread, but I'm trying to replace 2 wheel studs, and nothing in this thread is working. I tried pounding the old studs out, but it looks like the dust shield is in the way. How can I get them out, preferably without removing the caliper and rotor?

 

bend the dust shield.

 

and use a BFH ( Big Fcking Hammer ) and play wack-a-mole on the studs..


i'd spray PB blaster to make it easier to come out

 

there are holes in the dust shield to pass the stud through IIRC

 

^ I only saw one hole, I think. I guess you have to rotate each stud into position, then pound it out. That makes sense... Thanks guys!

 

yup you have to rotate it around to line up to the hole.

 

damn...and i knew the answer to this one lol.

 

Hmmm. I went to try to remove the studs again today, and the holes in the dust shield aren't anywhere near the back of the studs. Guess I'll have to take the rotor and caliper off.

Do I just have to remove the two bolts on the back side of the caliper? And does anyone know the torque specs of those 2 bolts?

 

I think its 14 or 17 ft lbs but dont hold me to it

 

^ Alright, thanks. Is it just those 2 bolts? Or are there any more that are less obvious?

 

From the sound of things I thought you had that off...you need that stuff off to do it.

 

^ That's what I thought, but housecor's last post (#18) threw me off.

 

The caliper bolts (14mm head) should be around 25-30-ish lb.-ft., and the bolts that attach the bracket to the spindle (17mm heads) should be 50-60-ish.

Go ahead and take off the caliper bracket and the rotor, and whack that wheel stud with a BFH. One good hit should do it.

For reinstallation of a new stud, the best thing to do is to buy an extra open-end lugnut and put it on with the flat side toward the hub face, with a couple of washers. Then torque that down to pull the new stud into place.

 

hey i just did the same thing today.... hahaha

 

^ Any tips?