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hard to start rough idle/ check eng lite

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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:12 AM
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hard to start rough idle/ check eng lite

Gents, started my car this morning but it was running rough, recently changed alternator and a day later the problem starts. RPM needle stays at 700 and any acceleration at all, the needle jumps to 4000 and goes no further. The engine isn't running at 4ooo rpm but the check engine lite is on. When I decelerate, car starts running rough again. Any ideas????
Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:33 AM
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Since the check engine light is on,it has stored a problem code in the ecu

You need to check the codes in the ecu..

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=311138

^^^^^^^^
Code info


Location of ecu..


Behind this panel on the passenger side
Old Dec 14, 2006 | 10:22 AM
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codes I got

I got code 13 and 22. Tried another cooling sensor already, NO Joy. is the Fuel pump circuit located on the fuel pump????
Old Dec 14, 2006 | 10:53 AM
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Did you replace the coolant temp sensor,or the cylinder head temp sensor?

You should have replaced the cylinder head temp sensor,not the coolant temp sensor..



This is the chts location on the vg engine{sohc}

Chts location on the ve engine {dohc}
Old Dec 14, 2006 | 11:05 AM
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Also,multiple codes do not necessarily mean both parts are malfunctioning,one bad sensor can cause multiple codes to pop up..
Old Dec 15, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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Did you disconnect the negative when you did the alt job?

Just a guess, but check that your battery terminals are tight, clean the post and terminal with a wire brush and reconnect everything.
Old Dec 16, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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Mine won't start when warm. Fires first time then stumbles out. Got any ideas?
Old Dec 16, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mirror
Mine won't start when warm. Fires first time then stumbles out. Got any ideas?
Fuel pump?
Old Dec 16, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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It seems to flood after it stalls. Won't start for like 20 minutes.

Strange thing is that it starts fine if it is cold.
Old Dec 16, 2006 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Fuel pump?
I hate to sound like a noob but where is the pump and how hard is it to change?
Old Dec 16, 2006 | 08:09 PM
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i'll give my standard answer. Coolant Temp Sensor
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mirror
It seems to flood after it stalls. Won't start for like 20 minutes.

Strange thing is that it starts fine if it is cold.

I have put 3 pumps in my maxima[idiotzone crap]

It usually was fine at startup,then after a while it would just die out,i could usually bang on the top of the fuel pump cover with my fist to get it back going,but it was only a temporary fix..

You have to take out the back seats to access the fuel pump...
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 03:27 AM
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Hey guys,

Sorry to hijack the thread for a bit but regarding the ****/screw for turning on the ECM to obtain codes, i had a look on my car's one and above where the screw is, it says "Idle speed" or something along those lines, which to me seemed like it was of course some sort of adjustment for the engine's RPMs at idle... so i didnt want to fiddle with it...... whats the go there?
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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okay, I changed temp coolant and cylinder head temp sesors. Timing belt, water pump tensioner. No joy, Same symptoms as before except this time I got code 11,13,22. Once car starts, it idles at 700 rpm but rough and if you touch the gas at all, it jumps to 4000 rpm but the engine isn't running at 4000 rpm. any suggestions???? HELP
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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what are the symptoms if your MAF mafunctions?????
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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sounds like morely a faulty ECU. if the needle/or digi meter would jump to 4000 and the engine isnt doing so, sounds more of an electrical failure to me. Try swapping ECU's, from another maxima of the same year see if the problem persists.

something must have damaged when you changed your alternator. maybe ECU surged or something burned.
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:35 AM
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have you tried running with the alt disconnected?
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:41 AM
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No, should I unhook the connector and not the battery connectors
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:48 AM
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yeah you could do that but , by doing that , you're making the coil get its power from the battery alone and drain the battery, but try it out and see if its your alternator buggering up our electric system.
try the other way around too, disconnect one of the leads while the car is in idle. This can sometimes tell if the alternator is working good or bad by itself.

A bad batttery can sometimes throw off other components.

i still think you should try to find another ECU and see if thats the issue
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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will try today
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 11:26 AM
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From: Tunasea
Originally Posted by cspangg
what are the symptoms if your MAF mafunctions?????
Just unplug the maf...

Note: The ecu will not let the car rev over 2200 rpm when the maf is unplugged..
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Badman_Maxima
sounds like morely a faulty ECU. if the needle/or digi meter would jump to 4000 and the engine isnt doing so, sounds more of an electrical failure to me. Try swapping ECU's, from another maxima of the same year see if the problem persists.

something must have damaged when you changed your alternator. maybe ECU surged or something burned.
Not likely,i have never heard of a maxima ecu failure since i have been on this board,with the exception of a heater core leaking on it,causing the failure..

Not saying it's impossible,just unlikely..
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 11:37 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cspangg
Once car starts, it idles at 700 rpm but rough and if you touch the gas at all, it jumps to 4000 rpm but the engine isn't running at 4000 rpm. any suggestions???? HELP

Huh?

So you're saying the rpm needle jumps up to 4000rpm,but the engine is still at idle?
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 06:02 PM
  #24  
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Gents, FIXED it, I tried another ECU and Computer. NO JOY! Went to the junk yard and found another distributor for 10$ and YEAH!!!! Everything works as advertised. It was the Crank Angle zSensorinside the distributor!!! Thanks for all your help GENTS!!
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