Do these HID's look legit?
Do these HID's look legit?
Found these on ebay and from the looks of this guys feedback people must like these kits. For the price they are unbeatable! What do you guys think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6000K...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6000K...QQcmdZViewItem
I don't know for sure about the ebay HID's. You may want to go with someone you know, like someone from the group buy section. Maximabest is who I bought mine from. Automax 95? also sells kits.
I don't know man, it's your call...
I don't know man, it's your call...
we got them in stock, if you are interested check it out
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=481336
life time warranty!!!
Our quality beats ebay
Service beats ebay
Liability beats ebay
Warranty beats ebay
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=481336
life time warranty!!!
Our quality beats ebay
Service beats ebay
Liability beats ebay
Warranty beats ebay
might be a good kit. I would always rather see a auction for a part fort a particular car, advertise the part in use with the car mentioned.
why post the HID on a S15?
Gotta love a lifetime waranty, dont know if the ebay kit offers that
why post the HID on a S15?
Gotta love a lifetime waranty, dont know if the ebay kit offers that
Just a heads up for anyone interested in these. YOU WILL LOSE HI BEAMS!!!
That was a huge barrier for me getting HID's in my 98. So I ended up buyin bixenon projectors. I'm almost finished with retrofit. I did mine slightly differently, I fibreglassed the entire reflector area, contoured it so that only the lens portion is exposed. The rest is hidden behind the fibreglass.
Here's a pic from about 3 days ago. Since those pics were taken, both headlights are now fibreglassed and bondoed. I have one more sanding session left, then it's time for paint. I'll probably have it all up and running by tomorrow night. Biggest problem was all the sanding. That took up more than half the man hours on this project. The wiring harness was a little tricky as I had to use a wiring harness as I had to find a way to provide a steady 12V supply to the ballast during lo and hi beam operation, while also providing 12V to the solenoid during hi beam and only hi beam. It required the use of a relay as well.
http://flickr.com/photos/sinliew/355671966/
That was a huge barrier for me getting HID's in my 98. So I ended up buyin bixenon projectors. I'm almost finished with retrofit. I did mine slightly differently, I fibreglassed the entire reflector area, contoured it so that only the lens portion is exposed. The rest is hidden behind the fibreglass.
Here's a pic from about 3 days ago. Since those pics were taken, both headlights are now fibreglassed and bondoed. I have one more sanding session left, then it's time for paint. I'll probably have it all up and running by tomorrow night. Biggest problem was all the sanding. That took up more than half the man hours on this project. The wiring harness was a little tricky as I had to use a wiring harness as I had to find a way to provide a steady 12V supply to the ballast during lo and hi beam operation, while also providing 12V to the solenoid during hi beam and only hi beam. It required the use of a relay as well.
http://flickr.com/photos/sinliew/355671966/
Alright, probably finished the last layer of bondo, completed and tested the wiring harness. Tomorrow, I glass bead blast the bondo. Depending on how long it takes me to get it nice and smooth (might need more bondo, but I'm hoping I'm good), I will finish up the backs of the housings for good. Monday, I will refinish/polish the headlight covers and reassemble everything. I'll probably install and wire everything up into the car Tuesday as it's pretty cold out here in Toronto and I'm trying to limit my work outside to an hour at a time.
Here's a pic of the housings with a little primer on them to really bring out any remaining marks/pits/etc so I can glass bead them off tomorrow, and then coat them with a really high build primer on Monday. I call it the lazy man's way to a smooth finish.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/157/3...5d1be777_b.jpg
Here's a pic of the housings with a little primer on them to really bring out any remaining marks/pits/etc so I can glass bead them off tomorrow, and then coat them with a really high build primer on Monday. I call it the lazy man's way to a smooth finish.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/157/3...5d1be777_b.jpg
Originally Posted by MDeezy
Nissan 240sx. 97+
'89-'94. S13 (Hatch or Coupe available)
'95-'96. S14 Zenki (Coupe only)
'97-'98. S14 Kouki (coupe only)
Those are the classifications for the United States. They were much different in Japan, for example an S13 is not a 240sx in JP, it's a 180sx due to the fact that they used to house a CA18DET when first in production. In other parts of the world it would be called 200sx (no not that FWD pos we saw here) due to an SR20DE(T). Then we have our 240sx we had the KA24E and DE hence the name. I could go all night, but anyways, it was a Japanese sports car that was amazing in many respects (most notably in drifting). The S15 was only available via the JM from '99-'02, it never hit the states.
Originally Posted by supervinn
not worth the money. i would buy projectors off some Acura and do a dual projector conversion =] cheap. done with 400 bucks
If you go with bixenon:
1 pair bulbs/ballasts
1 pair bixenon projectors
1 wiring harness
If you go with a dual bixenon:
1 pair of bulbs/ballasts
2 pair of projectors (1 for hi, 1 for lo)
1 wiring harness
1 pair of hi beam bulbs
How does it work out that a dual projector setup is cheaper?
Originally Posted by supervinn
not worth the money. i would buy projectors off some Acura and do a dual projector conversion =] cheap. done with 400 bucks
For those who dont want to deal with projectors but was a brighter output, the HID kits fit the bill, and some cant justify $400-$600 for a retro fit when they can spend $200 and have a very nice output.
Originally Posted by MDeezy
most HID setup are atleast half the cost of a projector setup with much less hassle to setup. Most are just plug and play, 15 mintues and your done.
For those who dont want to deal with projectors but was a brighter output, the HID kits fit the bill, and some cant justify $400-$600 for a retro fit when they can spend $200 and have a very nice output.
For those who dont want to deal with projectors but was a brighter output, the HID kits fit the bill, and some cant justify $400-$600 for a retro fit when they can spend $200 and have a very nice output.
Furthermore, the 4th gen housing simply sucks. It scatters light everywhere, which is why the stock lighting sucks so much. And it doesn't get a lot better just by increasing output. There's so much glare you have to aim it so much lower. And even then you're gonna get hassled by cops for the glare, and you're a danger to oncoming traffic. All those times someone with glaring headlights in your face pissed you off because it was dangerous for you, well guess who's the jerk now?
I recently picked up Murano bixenon projectors with 4300K Phillips/Osram bulbs for $235 Canadian. I already had a set of Phillips LVQ-212 ballasts from a previous retrofit. All in, in terms of parts and all my consumables for my retrofit like sand paper, fibreglass, etc, many of which are not necessary if you do the simpler cut hole, insert projector and cover with bezel, I spent about $350 Canadian all in.
The price difference between a 9004 ringged D2R setup as opposed to a proper projector setup with a D2S bulb is the cost of the projector basically, and BMW E46 ones regularly go for $100, and many other projectors can be found for $150. I understand $100-150 for a projector is definitely more, but considering the performance difference, the difference in being a hazard on the road, the difference in tickets from cops and compared to the ways most of these people that are concerned about the cost spend it on things like tinted halogens for ~$100, it doesn't make sense to me, but hey, maybe it's just me. I'd say 95% of org'ers on this board have purchased some kind of tinted halogen bulb for anywhere from $40-100. Let's see, tinted halogens over and over again, or a proper HID setup? That's a tough one.
From what I can tell, the biggest hold back is that a similar percentage of people that buy the tinted bulbs are also incapable of doing a proper retrofit themselves. And there's not much that can be done there. But I totally disagree with the "middle road" position you're taking. I'm not saying I'm right and other people are wrong, but I don't see a 9004 HID plug and play kit being a smart decision compared to a D2S setup in a projector, financially, or performance wise.
for a quick comparison of bulb outputs, check out this link. He covers outputs of virtually all bulbs. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...uperwhite.html
BTW, there's another thread somewheree here about a 9007 socket/bulb changeover that's about $30 / lite incl bulb. i forget the thread title, but it was recent.
BTW, there's another thread somewheree here about a 9007 socket/bulb changeover that's about $30 / lite incl bulb. i forget the thread title, but it was recent.
Back again, I wanted the thread for myself anyway.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=312531
recent post was Jan 01 - this thread started May 22, 04
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=312531
recent post was Jan 01 - this thread started May 22, 04
Originally Posted by Jwad00
JW, what exactly are bi xenon headlights?
Bi-xenon= High beam xenon & low beam xenon, so you don't lose high beam. However not many people that i know of uses high beam once they get the HID's for low beam.
We now offers a kit with high halogen bulbs and low xenon which is cheaper than bi-xenon kits.
Originally Posted by JSMax
sub. so that I can see final pictures of your fiberglassed retro.
nice job so far...
nice job so far...
http://flickr.com/photos/sinliew/362309927/
http://flickr.com/photos/sinliew/362309926/
http://flickr.com/photos/sinliew/362313684/
Nissan/Infiniti bixenon modules, Phillips/Osram 4300K D2S bulbs with approximately 3300 Lumens.
A lot of work, primarily in the fibreglass and smoothing. But it's strong as hell, adjustable with the stock adjustment, bixenon, sharp cutoff, white light, not bait out, only colour you see is a shard of purple and yellow at the cutoff point.
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