I had wired the EU following the write up on VQ power (don't remember whose that is) but noticed he has the MAF wired for karman vortex type blue/purple wires instead of hotwire type white/green wires. I tried starting but it just cranks and never fires and the ECU code I get is for the MAF. Is the write up wrong? The EU is configured for vq30det which is hotwire and no way to change that.
Also for the A/F inputs on the option ports it's left to right 1 signal, 2 +5v, 3 ground. I have the plx M300 but it's +12v. How do you guys running the AF input have that setup? Will the jumpers configure for 5 or 12v?

 

We have hotwire airflow meters (0-5v). The writeup is wrong. I'm getting Luke to change it.

As far as the option port is concerned, all you're going to need to use on the EU is the left and right pins, left being signal, and right being ground. Don't even use the middle one, leave it disconnected. All the EU needs is the WB signal wire, and the ground. You then have to configure your WB to output the same voltage for the respected a/f ratios (ie. 8.7a/f=0v, 22.9a/f=5v) and you have to match this on both the EU setup and the WB setup.


EDIT: You MUST ground your option port ground to your wideband ground location, or else it won't read properly.

 

Yes, the write-up was written by me. I did have the wires right, but on the write-up, I got the input and the output in the opposite places. You'll need to hook up blue wire to the wire coming from the sensor and hook green wire to the ecu. In the write-up, I put down green to the sensor and blue to the ECU. Obviously, this was wrong... I am sorry, I was revising the EU write-up and had a few mistakes. But before I get to submit the corrections for the write-up, my jump drive got stolen, I pretty much lost all files and pictures to work with, so I haven't touched it for a while.

About the crank and cam sensor terminals, we'll need dandy to come and confirm again. Because I did get the car to start and run for 5 minutes after the install, but after 3 days, coming to start the car again, it just wouldn't start again. It cranks, but doesn't start. And resultingly, I bled all 6 coils and received a ignition circuit fault...

I'm speculating that my crank and cam sensors are hooked up wrongly, but I was definitely following the information I received from Dandy's threads.

Jmiester, I suggest you to stop right now and use stock ecu for now. We need to sort out this crank and cam sensor stuff first. Do not leave your key in the "on" position for too long with the crank and cam wired possilbly wrong because it'll burn and bleed your 6 coils.

I'm still trying to sort this thing out too. And I need to do it soon so that people wouldn't screw things up following the write-up. A correction will be posted within a week. Sorry about that.

-Peter-

 

Peter, don't be sorry man, we all make mistakes. I wish I could've taken the time to make the writeup, but you did a great job. It is very thorough.

As far as crank/cam sensor readings go,

(courtesy of DandyMax)
In order to use the crank signal to pick up rpms and track ignition timing, the EU must be wired to use BOTH crank sensors. It does not need the cam sensor to be inputted. The crank POS signal should therefore be inputted on the EU crank line (crank angle (Ne)), and the crank REF signal should be inputted on the EU cam line (cam angle (G)).

This is the correct way to wire. I had a friend do this on his 2000 maxima, and he has no problems whatsoever with the crank signal, and has advanced timing successfully, and it also reads properly.

Oh, and it's also the way it is wired on my car.

 

Hey Goaliekek, can you look into that new thread I just submitted in this allmotor forum: I had a link there to link to the write-up. Can you look into my write-up to see if I got the crank and cam angles correctly? Because I used to have these sorted out on my notepad, but everything was lost and I cannot refer to a solid answer at this time. And tomorrow. I will spend a couple hours with those 2 wires. In the mean time, I want to know if my sources of signals are correctly located. I have them hooked to 44 and 49 of the ECU locations, but they could have been switch-crossed into the EU's needed input locations. Can you check on those for me? Thanks.

If and when you get a solid answer about this issue, can you also input your answer onto my thread, too? I will then collect everything and redraw some stuff and give it to Luke to make the corrective changes needed on the write-up.

Thanks...

-Peter-

 

I was actually doing your writeup last night and i noticed that it had an error, very good writeup btw, when i did it the way you have it the car wouldnt start, but i dont know if i even wanna wire the maf into eu since i got the pressure sensor and can jsut control everything tps vs rpm

 

I'll pull the writeup until you have something more solid to work with.

 

I'm pretty sure that even with a pressure sensor, you must initially run the maf for a couple of 20ms maps to begin with. You'll need base maps to tune the car. And if you dont' run maf, running it on pressure sensor alone will not give you the base maps needed to tune the car. So, you'll need maf first before you can totally eliminate it to run the pressure sensor.

This was what had happend:
in October, I had wired it up and cranked the car up to run for 5 minutes on a Friday afternoon. logged those 5 minutes of running, and submitted my eu write-up officially. Then I head off, with another car, to a vacation for 3 days throughout the weekend. Coming back on Monday to the car to only find it un-startable, it cranks, but cannot start. Trying it out so many times, I got lastly a code that tells me that my ignition circuit was faulty, so I stopped because I found to have bled all 6 ignition coils. Got a spare set on aside, but scared to do EU till I get a hold of another set. And then I was busy for several months that I cannot mess with EU, but the whole time, I had a few corrections made but my storage drive was stolen at work. Lost all the files to set foot on correcting it again, I couldn't get to it at all.

I just got 2 spare sets of ignition coils now, and I'm working on correcting it. So within a week, this write-up will be done and perfect to run. Sorry about the mistakes. Just give me a few more days.

-Peter-

 

Hey, Luke, thanks you're around. I will submit a full corrected diagram for the write-up within a few more days. Sorry about all the mess I gave you.

-Peter-

 

Peter,

Yes, the way you have them in the writeup is almost correct, although the CORRECT wiring is (dominant color) grey (stripe color) white = grey/white. NOT white/grey (which is what you have in the writeup. That is saying that the harness color is dominant color white/stripe of grey. Although I don't think there is a white/grey wire or a black/grey wire, this is just FYI.

For the most part, I'm probably just confusing people. The reason that you may have had your coil problem may lie with a bunch of different factors. You might've wired a few coils wrong, etc. I don't think it would've been from the crank wiring, since you're just taking a reading from the wires, but I could be wrong. It could send the wrong signal to the ignition wiring, causing them to pass excessive voltage somehow.

I'm going to have my EU harness in front of me in a couple hours to verify wire colors and such.

 

Ahhh, so you think you've found the culprit for the melting coilpacks issue, eh?? I hope so. Let us know your final outcome.