Some time ago the car developed a "stuttering" issue which I've tried to address countless times.

After consulting max.org for answers I was convinced it was a bad ignition coil. So I order and install 6 used coils in seemingly good condition (as observed by myself and stated by the seller). It only took 1 test drive to realize that it had done absolutely nothing, still the same problem. I was also getting a "engine misfire" code from my CEL at the time which continued even after changing the coils.

I also went through the usual maintenance crap (BG treatment, TB cleaning...) thinking I could fix my problem the easy way but nothing worked.

It might be important to note that the stuttering ALWAYS happens at the exact same spot in my gas pedal, regardless which gear I'm in. In other words, when I press the gas pedal down 1/3 of the way, it starts to bog down. As soon as I pass the 1/3 mark the car runs fine, until I reach the 2/3 or so mark, then I get the same stuttering problem. It's the weirdest things. Basically if I want to drive the car without making it stutter, each time I shift I have to give it enough gas to bypass the first stutter mark in the gas pedal. I know it sounds crazy but I hope someone else has experienced something like this on their Max. Highway driving is usually ok (easier to maintain the "sweet spot" with the gas pedal) until I need to pass someone, as soon as I accelerate and get passed the 2/3 mark in the gas pedal, the problem comes back. Oh and forget trying to floor it, it stutters so bad it scares me sometimes.

Excuse me for giving so many details but I feel it's necessary to describe my problem properly.

I also brought it to my mechanic who addressed the engine misfire CEL. He told me cylinder #4 was misfiring and we needed to order a new coil for it. Sweet! Finally a probable fix for my problem! After pulling the sparkplug he noticed it was entirely covered with black suit, so I take no chances and tell him to change them all. I pick it up the next day, it has no more CEL, new sparkplugs, new ignition coil, this has to work! It doesn't...I drive it out and immediately feel the same stutter I've had for months now. I bring it right back and we go for a spin with the scanner hooked up to the car. CEL never comes on and detects no code!?!

He thinks it could be something wrong with my MAF sensor since the problem always occurs at the same spot. I know I'm not getting a CEL for MAF but I've had many sensor problems before and the car wouldn't tell me (CEL not on). That or my CEL is permanently burned out from being on so many years...lol.

His theory is that the MAF is not reading the air coming in correctly at those exact moments where the car stutters.

I've never heard of anything like this, anyone have any thoughts?

I apologize for the ramblings, I've been through a lot with this car and I would love to bring it back to what it used to be.

Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks

 

Replace your MAF, then.

 

Sounds like a bad Throttle Position Sensor to me. It is on the side of the throttle body.

 

I don't think it's the TPS, I'm not experiencing the symptoms described in this TPS howto:

"Symptoms: The most obvious is if the TPS just up and dies. You'll get
a check engine light and the 0403 trouble code. (Trouble codes will be
covered at a later date). However, if the TPS is still gasping its last
few breaths, you won't necessarily get the light. But you will get
inexplicable, "spontaneous" drops in RPMs. It's most pronounced when you
are at idle or the engine is coasting to idle after disengaging the clutch.
I have yet to see someone tell of problems when the car was moving/accelerating.
"

 

That is the problem. I have observed that people get on here and tell people to change parts having no idea what they are talking about. They automatically suggest things that may have worked for their cars and dont pay attention to the OP's symptoms. Next time, dont go buying parts before you prove what is wrong (especially coils).

I bet you that if you continue, by the end of this you will have bought a new MAF, new COILS new TPS, new ECTS, new injectors, iridium plugs and seafoamed your car.

 

Whoa...Never thought of that.

You have to understand something, I've changed so many sensors and coils on this car without any luck. I need someone who has experienced something like this before to at least give me somewhat of an educated guess.

 

do you have a fidanza flywheel?

 

It is not a sensor. how did you clean you TB? did you take it off or do that garbage motorvate method? use a new gasket? clean your IAC Valve also? If everything was cleaned properly, I would inspect bhunters suggestion since from your own description it is throttle related.

 

Why do you ask? I don't but the problem started not long after I got some tranny work done...?

I had an ACT clutch which crapped out on me and it somewhat damaged the flywheel in the process. It was still usable so my mech. remachined it and put it back in. I also have starting issues which is apparantly related to the flywheel, my starter "skips a beat" trying to work with the flywheel so it sort of hickups on startup.

I'm looking for a decent used flywheel as we speak to fix my startup issue. Could this also have something to do with my car stuttering all the time?

 

The TPS IS a sensor...

I cleaned it the same way I usually do, with BG44K and a tooth brush. It was more of a desperation cleaning, when you know it won't change a thing. I highly doubted it would fix my problem.

From the descriptions I've read on a bad TPS, I don't think it's my TPS. I have no problems with RPMS on idle, or when releasing the clutch to coast. I can actually rev(WOT) my car in neutral no problem, but as soon as I put it in gear and WOT it, the car jerks like a mother@#$%.

 

I know I'm a 5th gen guy, so it may not be applicable, but my 00 did the same thing. I replaced all coils and plugs, and it still didnt do nething. I replaced the IACV which solved one prob of stalling @ idle, but left the studder at about 2500-3000 rmp no matter wat gear. No CEL, jus the studder. I dont know much about the 4th gen, but alot of 5th gens blow a MAF w/o ever throwing a code until its compl. fried. Neways, I replaced MAF and it was like night and day, felt great, and never got the studder again. I know our cars are quite diff. but you asked for someone who has experienced something like this before. G/L

 

Well since you highly doubt doing the things that make sense will work, perhaps you dont need to ask for help. why not go buy some more coil packs that are totally unrelated to throttle position. seems like you have it all figured out.

 

lol...don't you have a shinning wit. When exactly did I say it was related to my TPS?? Someone mentionned that, I looked into it, and it is NOT what I'm experiencing.

Go play somewhere else, idiot.

 

I surely do as you have an obvious inability to read (or maybe comprehend). If you could read, you would see that I stated your problem is throttle position related. Where did i get that from?

Hmmm. lets see. your gas pedal is your throttle pedal. Hmmm. It only acts up at a certain throttle position. Instead of inspecting it, you decide it is unrelated based on a description you got off of the internet (which is the same place that told you to buy a new set of coils). Boy are you a bright one.

 

That's amazing! You really got me there. I feel like such an idiot for not remembering(see caring) that YOU were the genius who came up with the TPS. I think you're confusing my inability to read with my inability to scroll up and GIVING A **** about what you said.


Come on, don't you believe everything you read on the internet? Am I not reading your BS on the internet too? Should I believe you more than the dozen or so who suggested to change the coils? Man you're special, I guess your word counts more than anybody elses around here huh? You seem like the type of person who can't accept a little critisism, you flew off the handle when I really didn't say s**t yet.

Oh that's right, you're THE mechanic to go to if I'm in NYC right?

One more thing, nice name...it makes you sound tough. Yeh BOyyyyyy.

 

Please disregard all the latest BS posts. I appreciate everyone's input and hope we can bring this back to a civil discussion.

 

uhhhh....dude. If you don't like sound advice from an experienced maxima mech (that would be 2DaMizzax), then turn around and look for help elsewhere. You seem like a guy who just sticks to his theory and doesn't wanna listen.

But, GOOD LUCK anyway, and i hope you'll solve your problem.

oh, and it seems that you solved ONE problem by changing the coils/plugs. But you still get that stuttering problem. SO, i'd say try the TPS.

 

That's just it, I dont' have any theories. At this point I'm just looking for advice, if it sounds plausible I'll look into it and judge for myself if it's the problem I'm having. He may be an experienced maxima tech but still a dikwad nonetheless.

 

I had a problem that sounds almost exactly like what you're describing. It ended up being a semi-clogged fuel filter. Not an expensive part either, I'd try that before going with the more expensive options.

 

the reason I mentioned that is because I have two fourth gens and I have fidanza flywheels in both of them, when I apply a moderate to high level of throttle at lower-mid rpms both of my cars studder/hickup, and then at higher rmps it does not do it. The problem you described sounds similar to the problems I have had with my fidanza flywheels, that's why I mentioned it. One one car I have a fifth gen clutch and the other one I have an ACT and it does the same thing so I know its the flywheel that causes this. This is just my suggestion, I know dropping the tranny is probably not something you want to do.

 

pull your codes again.

check your TPS --- go to autozone or murray's and borrow an OBDII code scanner that can read live sensor data. with engine off-key on, view the throttle position -- slowly press accelerator through it's full range and watch the readout. if you see anything weird, change the TPS.

if you can -- take the car out on the road with the OBDII scanner hooked up, and watch the readings when the stuttering happens. look at timing, TPS, MAF, open/closed loop mode, fuel trim, etc. this will help identify if it's an air, fuel, or spark problem.

 

Getting back to your idea of a civil discussion (we're Canadians after all) . Having said that, I've read posts from 2da mizzax & he knows what he's talking about, I suspect it's your MAF. I've gone through a few probelms on my Max. Here are a couple:

- Bad #1 injector - car ran ok for awhile, but with a dud dud dud throughtout the rev range, until I gave it a WOT. This provoked a flashing CEL & a cyl-misfire code.
- Bad MAF - intermittent jerking at certain throttle positions - seems to occur when going from a light throttle to WOT.

This occurred shortly after I accidentally dropped the assembly when I took it out to clean the TB. I bought a used one from the local junkyard, works great!

 

I have a similar problem--it always happens on the 3-4 shift when I'm accelerating lightly, and it ONLY happens then. Usually I'm shifting at ~3200rpm and land at maybe ~2600 in 4th, simultaneously apply 1/2 throttle or so and it bogs. It's not very frequent that I do that so I haven't really looked into it too deeply before.

Just to let you know you might not be alone...

BTW my drivetrain is completely stock.

 

I would suggest cleaning you MAF sensor. There is no reason to replace it when you can simply clean it by purchasing a can of MAF sensor cleaner from the auto parts store. It's like $6 or so. Here is a great video that shows you how to do it http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...6f015c3dac.htm
I just cleaned my TB and MAF sensor and noticed a huge difference esp in torque and throttle response. My max pulls a lot stronger from a still idle now. Since i did my TB at the same time, I cleaned the MAF sensor diff than in the vid, i just shot through the rubber tube that connects to the TB and then got at it from the screen in the top of the air box on the other side. It was a lot quicker that way.

 

Me and magicmax just went thru this stuff, ended up for both of us it was the MAF, their $215 at autozone for a reman, and you'll know imediately within 3 min if it's fixed. Just let the car warm up first.

 

bah don't listen to them its all rubish what you should really do is get your pads and rotors changed... it will fix that problem 100% trust me i work at a dealership..


p.s. im joking

 

I could not find a proper thread to ask this question, but hopefully someone can help. I have a 02 Max SE that it takes a few extra cranks to start, and will start, but dies a few seconds later. If you touch the accelerator will immediately die. The codes I am getting are
P0223 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P1224 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase) Circuit (Bank 1)
Is there anyone that can offer any assistance?

 

Well, the camshaft would be the cause of your starting/stallling issues. The TPS would likely cause drivability issues, but you can't even test that since it stalls SO just take it one sensor @ a time, change them, and you'll be fine.

 

I kindof have a similar problem too. I have a 95 Stock Auto, and ever since I had the car for the past 2 years, I've noticed I get this shudder/stutter when I give it about....ehhh....2/3 throttle. It's not smooth at all, and it only happens when I am coasting through town anywhere from 15-35 mph and open the throttle about 2/3 of the way. Any higher or lower, the car is smooth as butter. It's always been a problem that has baffled me. I was told the MAF was replaced at some time, but was never told when. I actually might look into this problem more, and see if it really is a MAF problem. As soon as I get my car paid off, I am doing a major overhaul in the tuneup department =D

 

I agree with Wassup2114, I had the same issue on my sentra..
Fuel filter was clogged..

 

very strange.... you dont know any maxima owners that you may be able to burrow the MAF from temporarily?

 

AHAHAHA!! Sweet! I have that exact same stutter as well!! It's like a stutter when you really quickly stab the gas a little, I know exactly what you're talking about, I never could figure out why it was still there even after I did the swap and everything was different! Except for the maf, so I tossed my back-up maf in and still there, ahahaha. sweet, anyways.......


Don't bother, it's not flywheel related, he machined the face where the disc contacts, nothing that would affect the starter ring gear, you're simply one of many who will be saved by crazy97's crazy starting problem thread!!GO HERE!

 

Didn't wanna read the thread after the bs'ing.

TPS is a SENSOR, hence the name throttle positioning sensor.

I would barrow a maf sensor from a local orger, or try to clean yours with rubbing alcohol.
Since the car revs fine in neutral I doubt it is the TPS since it is not load dependent like the MAF.

 

i've had pretty close to the same problem on a freinds car for a while now. right at about 2400rpm or so it just bogs and starts to studder. His cars auto with MEVI and upgraded valve body in the trans which i just figured it was that but we also ran out of other ideas.

we changed throttle body (with sensors), fuel pump, strainer and fuel filter, swaped intakes and filters, changed air temp sensor, all 6 coils, cleaned up all wires around the ecu from a previous SC install using a bunch of useless electronics, changed the ecu, tryed about 4 different MAF sensors and still the same. Would def. love to hear what yours is if you figure it out as we've just given up at this point.

-Dan