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2nd Guessing Cam Install due to difficulty

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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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2nd Guessing Cam Install due to difficulty, need input

Ok since there is soo much work involved and labour prices are ridiculous. I was thinking of holding of on the vq35 cam swap in my VQ30. I want to make this swap worth my while. What other mods can I do while completing the cam swap. Maybe just all out VQ35 head swap? What would you guys suggest?
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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vq 35 head dun fit in der........ i think

maybe some valve springs and rod bolts? thats what i plan on doing.. .but i have a 5.5.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 01:04 PM
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Might as well do a 35 swap IMO...
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Might as well do a 35 swap IMO...
I don't have the thousands for that. Rather build a 3.0 to be honest. Just looking at what can be done while timing cover and valve covers etc are off the car to get more gains other then just cams.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Thousands? 800 for an engine and if you can swap cams and stuff I am SURE you can swap a motor.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Thousands? 800 for an engine and if you can swap cams and stuff I am SURE you can swap a motor.
Well I'm auto and I don't see the 4-speed vq30 tranny handling the VQ35. Cam's/ swapping motor. There is a big difference there, especially when it comes to wiring etc.

To be honest I want to just get the cams and what ever else i can do while the head is open out (not removed). I'd rather focus on a 5-speed swap next year over a motor swap.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TDotMax
Well I'm auto and I don't see the 4-speed vq30 tranny handling the VQ35. Cam's/ swapping motor. There is a big difference there, especially when it comes to wiring etc.

To be honest I want to just get the cams and what ever else i can do while the head is open out (not removed). I'd rather focus on a 5-speed swap next year over a motor swap.

Gotcha. Jime's auto is holding up.

I figured since you had to remove timing to do a cam swap and you gotta swap timing to do a vq35 swap you could do it.
VQ35 heads will LOWER the compression and that is not what you want to do.
I would get headers, pathfinder tb, and an EU
I do agree on the 5speed swap over the motor swap tho.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I would get headers, pathfinder tb, and an EU
Listen to this guy. Headers+VQ35 cams+Pathy TB+EU = TONS more power. Once maxed out with bolt ons and EU a VQ30DEK should have no problem seeing 225whp, probably closer to 235whp with the retarded VQ35 cams, timing fully advanced and all bolt ons (and 5-speed of course).

I am absolutely sold on the EU. You want to see the FULL potential of your motor, you get an EU. I paid 470$ shipped for mine from a TT Z guy, has all the harnesses, Greddy box & CD, etc...
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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For the Pathy TB. Is it a direct bolt on? Not sure how it would differ from the 4th geners who put it on and the process involved on putting onto a DEK. EU is something I want, but SAFC-II would have to do for now. Headers honestly not solde on yet for the price and gains over just Y-pipe on a 5.0 gen. Haven't seen dyno's to proove the gains over a y-pipe setup.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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You need an adapter plate to make the pathfinder TB bolt onto the UIM. This means getting a machine shop to make you one or buying a used one from a member.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TDotMax
For the Pathy TB. Is it a direct bolt on? Not sure how it would differ from the 4th geners who put it on and the process involved on putting onto a DEK. EU is something I want, but SAFC-II would have to do for now. Headers honestly not solde on yet for the price and gains over just Y-pipe on a 5.0 gen. Haven't seen dyno's to proove the gains over a y-pipe setup.

Headers won't add much peak power but overall power will be better.

As for the pathy tb. You need an adapter plate for it(Stephen Max should sell) and you will want to port match it.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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My vote is also for the VQ35 swap. Here's why... if you are gonna swap your cams in the car, the you will probably wish you had swapped the whole motor. Plus for the price of the motor $800 is about going price nowadays, you could sell off the VI from you motor (200-400 depending on buyer's interest) and not buy 3.5 cams (100-200 my estimate).

Sooo... you are nearly at the price of the 3.5 swap.

But, to directly answer your question. I would take the advice of Jclaw and Kevlo and do just about everything they said, but I would do a UDP. while you are messing aroudn with that side of the engine.
Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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For some reason i assumed you were going to install them yourself.


I don't think it's worth paying someone else to install JUST the 3.5 cams. Either install yourself, or head in a different direction unless you have tons of money to spend.
Old Apr 18, 2007 | 01:38 AM
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i got the impression he was doing this himself. and i doubt hes paying someone if he rejected the 3.5 swap because of simply the motor cost. either way, thats somewhat of a high amount of trouble to go through for the 3.5 cams. not really more you can do while you have the head open unless you want really high NA power, maybe some ARP head bolts if they exist.
Old Apr 18, 2007 | 05:39 AM
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I am doing it myself. Sorry wasn't clear, but the high labour costs I just used as an example. There is now way in hell I'm paying that kinda money lol.
Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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I bought my motor for $600 shipped to my door from back east and if I didn't decide to spend money on new rings, I would have done this for about +/-$1000. Go for the motor swap you won't regret it.
Old Apr 19, 2007 | 05:12 AM
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Unfortunately in Canada, Nissan parts are not cheap. 3.5's are not cheap. Total labour and parts would be over $3000 for a VQ35 swap.
Old Apr 19, 2007 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JClaw
Listen to this guy. Headers+VQ35 cams+Pathy TB+EU = TONS more power. Once maxed out with bolt ons and EU a VQ30DEK should have no problem seeing 225whp, probably closer to 235whp with the retarded VQ35 cams, timing fully advanced and all bolt ons (and 5-speed of course).

I am absolutely sold on the EU. You want to see the FULL potential of your motor, you get an EU. I paid 470$ shipped for mine from a TT Z guy, has all the harnesses, Greddy box & CD, etc...
I can't prove it since the engine seized but I'm pretty sure I was already in that 230+ area without cams...

TDot... if you can wait a few months I may be able to help you out with your cam job after I'm done with my engine replacement and some other house projects I need to do.
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DandyMax
I can't prove it since the engine blew but I'm pretty sure I was already in that 230+ area without cams...

TDot... if you can wait a few months I may be able to help you out with your cam job after I'm done with my engine replacement and some other house projects I need to do.
Cool, let me know Dandy, I don't mind driving down to your area. Let me know when. In the meantime I'll work on getting all my gaskets and seals in. I just got out bidded for a dirt cheap EU. Ah well I'll hold off on that until next year.
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 07:58 AM
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Are you going to upgrade the valve train to the VK45 valve stems?
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by speed racer
Are you going to upgrade the valve train to the VK45 valve stems?
Can you provide more info on this? I haven't heard about this on my research. What motor is this?
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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Q45 motor it has Titanium valvetrain parts,
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:29 AM
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Damn, I doubt it, those parts would be hard to come by.
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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Why would he need to either?


Old Apr 20, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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because he wants to rev out to 9k
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 01:41 PM
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let me know how the work goes when ur done TDotMax
Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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He has everything open and lighter valvetrain allows faster reving. Anyway I digress. Looking forward to the setup.
Old Apr 21, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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Gains due to a lighter valvetrain are negligible. It's more to allow for higher revs without valve float when using very aggressive cams profiles and are used in conjunction with stiffer springs, none of which apply in this case. Not worth the time, money, or effort for this setup by any stretch of the imagination.
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