OK here are my symptoms
1) driving down the interstate all of a sudden my car has no power past 1/4 throttle or so, and very little power during the first 1/4 throttle, when I give if more gas there is no acceleration in fact it almost seems to bog a little. on the flats I can milk it up to 75 or so but it takes a while. on hills its just good and slow, if I drop a gear to attempt to speed up I get no further acceleration.

2) In the garage if I rev the engine it doesn't rev as fast as it should and it sounds like my old max with a "CAI" it kinda gorwls when you get on the gas (basically just a filter in the engine compartment with the box removed) (mine is a stock set up with a decent filter

3) If I open the filter lid and place my hand over the intake screen (no allowing as much air to pass through) the growling goes away and sounds normal

4) I once upon a time had a misfire on cylinder 3, reset the code and it went away, when I checked today I had 0701 (multiple cylinder misfire) along with a few others such as engine temp sensor etc

I once again reset the ecu and then let the car idle for a bit, then I rechecked and got 0201 BUT didn't have any accompanying codes, just 0201

I have ohm tested the coils, they seem to be fine, I have also pulled the plugs reconnected the coils and watched them all spark (of course one at a time) so I am assuming its not the coils or the plugs

5) I ohm tested the front bank injectors they all ready about 12, THEN I ohm tested the rear injectors via the 8 point plug f131 and found that two of them read high (1 at 30 or so and the other at 55-60)
I read the intructions on how to test the rear bank and correct me if I did something wrong #1 pin 1 and 2 (this one read 30), #3 pin 1 and 6 (this one read 11.9-12) #5 pin 1 and 6 (this one read 60)


So is there anything else that could be causing no power with the associated things I have checked, I also looked at the MAF and throttle body, they all looked good to me

I am assuming that my problems are the 2 bad injectors (if I did the test right) but not positive and hate to rip into that rear bank for nothing.

My car kinda jerks under throttle, but not HORRIBLE, also it starts and idles fine, the power is smooth, but there is just not much of it


Like I said before anything past 1/4 throttle or so there is no additional power


THANKS AND PLEASE HURRY (I gotta start my new job on Tuesday)

 

This one requires an expert (not me), you obviously did ur part by testing everything.
if no one on here helps take her to a private mech, if he doesnt solve it take it to the dealer.

 

come on...no one? could it be something like a faulty sensor just kinda puts everything in a fail safe mode that just means I have 20% of the power I used to?

 

Get a mechanic s***hoscope, see if you can hear the click sound of injector(s).

 

It does sound like the ecu is in "safe mode" but look over the maf again and check the knock sensor.

 

yea sounds like safe mode to me what have you check voltage from your MAF and TPS?? give me the readings from both when you get them your also running pig rich right now when it goes to safe mode which mean like 200 miles to a full tank also another indicator of safe mode

 

ok I am readong on how to check the maf and tps voltage in the mean time I came across a thing that said DTC 0102 is the MAF and that will limit the engine rev speed to 2400. I don't have 0201, and I can rev past 2400, it just takes a good long while of cruising on the flats and slowly building engine speed

 

will bad injectors cause the car to run rough? The only reason I ask is because it doesn't. as stated before the injectors is the only thing that I have checked with an ohm meter that seems out of whack. HOWEVER the car still runs somewhat smooth, it isn't real lumpy or anything.

 

ohm meter wont do the much good a noid light will do that however injectors will not cause a your symtoms a MAF or TPS problem will im not familiar with nissan color codes on the wire but your maf has a positive and negative burn some insulation off the wires and test black is ground red is positive and white should be signal you should be 5 volts with key in and engine not running,throttle body will be opposit 0.15 closed and WOT should be 4.5+-

 

how do u know what safe mode SOUNDS like ? ?

its SEEMS as its in safe mode

 

i'd check all your grounds, especially the ones on the LIM make sure they are pretty

 

def check those grounds, several critical sensors are grounded to the LIM and it is crucial to have a good ground. Also, just to clarify, you don't have 0102, you have 0201 correct?

Unfortunatly you can ignore post #4, rear bank sucks. Since you have a job interview, if you need immediate help the fsm will come in handy.....

 

Safe mode is will up the a/r ratio to keep the engine safe although running like this in safe mode for weeks will melt your cat conv. so its in your best intrest to get to the bottom of this like i said check your voltages on your TPS and MAF sensors

 

do you have the factory service manual ..if you dont .....find it and download it !!... if you do look under the sections that have drivability problems

 

Ok so I took it down to the dealer today, paid them 95 bucks to tell me that the injectors on cylinder number 1 and 3 are bad, he told me he checked the mAF Iacv etc. pretty much the ole 100 dollar diagnostic to tell me that the injectors are bad. So I go buy 2 injectors rip everything all apart and it still runs like crap.

so, I don't have access to a multimeter anymore, I will tomorrow, I am getting code 0701 AGAIN! after driving for 3 minutes.

I want to check this ground thing on the LIM what is that? and where is it?
thanks

 

there's two seperate ones, and each one has two ground straps. Look directly past "nissan V6 3000" and you should see 'em, they bolt directly to the cast aluminum lower manifold. Actually if you look around in the fsm there is def. illistrations/pics of them somewhere.

 

ummm, yeah, look down at the bottom of ec-194 for an illustration of connectors f*18 & F*9, remove both 10mm bolts, and use coarse sandpaper until you see shiny new brass on every side of all 4 ground straps + the two spots where they sit on the LIM, hopefully that solves your problem and you can call the stealership back up and tell them they know jack **** about how to diagnose your car.

I KNOW you downloaded the fsm off phatg20.net right....... Check out page ec-185 for possible causes of 0701 AFTER you clean those grounds first, you should read the sections for dtc 0201 and 0407 also (yes, I know you never had 0407, read it anyways)..... then I'd start by checking for problems in the wiring harness by using a multimeter from the ecu connector to each coil-pack and injector, which is a royal pita, so you might as well do a compression and fuel-pressure test first, I'm pretty drunk right now, if I misinformed you my bad.

 

ive got a question does your car like backfire and pop while your driving it like when you get on it mine has the same symptoms as yours

except i dont get any check engine lights

 

no my car doesn't backfire or anything. and on the whole fsm deal, I am actually at my parents house and all they have is dial up so that will take a good long time but I will get on it. Thanks for the help

 

ouch, dialup blows, in that case I'll at least guide you in the direction of the grounds... Look directly above the "nissan V6 3000", coming out of the big front wire harness bundle you will see two thick black wires coming out that bolt to the lower-intake manifold, those are the ones you need to check/clean. and get that fsm asap!

robertseber, read the sticky's, download the fsm, and post 15 replys and start your own thread please. testing the fuel pressure is where I would start in your case.

 

the one thing you should note with the ground wires on the UIM/LIM have 3-4 wires to each ring not one big wire if ill see if i can get some pics for you to check stuff

 

Slinky, I am not sure I am uderstanding what you are talking about, I did check the grounds and sanded them all down etc. everything looked good. The one think I didn't do is pull the two rings apart and sand in between each one, so I will try that.

 

did you check the tps?"

 

Hey there, I was unable to check the tps actually. I cannot seem to download anything due to the slow internet connection and I do not know where the tps is or which wires to check, if anyone can help that would be great. I am sorry for the stupidity on my end, but I normally learn what I know about cars by dealing with various problems and it just happens to be that this time I am unable to find any info with pics and what not. thanks again
Dustin

 

here you go

 

on emore thing have you checked your FUSE BOX yet? all of them?

 

Slink, thanks for all your help, but everything seems good. I have had an on going issue for a while, but it is every morning and I kinda just ignored it

Its my timing chain tensioner, I am pretty sure its shot, it is just a rattly bastard but agin it never seemed to effect anything. regardless I should probably get on top of that. The car does for some odd reason seems to runs better, still not great, but better.

Anyway I was looking and I saw a little plate on the timing chain cover, can I change the tensoiner that way or do I need to rip the whole thing apart to get at it?
Thanks
D

 

Yes you can change the tensioner by removing that cover, if you read the stickys and find the waterpump instructions all the steps are in there, you should probably replace that as well, they like to leak any time after 100K. Depending on the build date of your car, some 95's and 96's used a different style tensioner, and you will not be able to use the new tensioner and instead have to just swap out the new o-ring & plunger onto your old tensioner.