DEK jumpy Idle
DEK jumpy Idle
trying to finish up my DEK swap. Everything is in and hooked up, no CEL codes. but the idle is jumping between 1500-2000. I'm using the 4th gen LIM, Rail&Injectors, IACV, TPS; and the 5th gen TB the 5th gen IACV is still on the throttle body, and the 2 lines are blocked off. When I start the car up. It will idle fine for about 5-10 seconds, then it will slowly rise, and start bouncing. I am unable to adjust the TPS, cause the idle won't sit still. . There are no vacuum leaks, but the sound from my intake is louder than normal. When you turn the key to the on position. you can here clicking coming from the throttle body. Any help or opinions are appreciated.
Sounds like a vaccum leak to me and the stock IACV is unable to adjust beacuse of it.
Take off the 5th IACV completly and block it off correctly with a seal and plate. Re-adust the TPS back to spec and report back
-matt
Take off the 5th IACV completly and block it off correctly with a seal and plate. Re-adust the TPS back to spec and report back
-matt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Digital Alchemy, I'm a graphics design major and just wanted to say your sig is DOPE! Back on topic.......
There could be a vacuum leak coming from anywhere considering you had both IM's off. pyroil extra strength starting fluid is your freind, unless of course in the rare case it happens to start a fire and your a dumb-*** and were spraying starting fluid all around with out a fire extinguisher near by, then it's not really your freind
Originally Posted by matty
Sounds like a vaccum leak to me and the stock IACV is unable to adjust beacuse of it.
Take off the 5th IACV completly and block it off correctly with a seal and plate. Re-adust the TPS back to spec and report back
-matt
Take off the 5th IACV completly and block it off correctly with a seal and plate. Re-adust the TPS back to spec and report back
-matt
There could be a vacuum leak coming from anywhere considering you had both IM's off. pyroil extra strength starting fluid is your freind, unless of course in the rare case it happens to start a fire and your a dumb-*** and were spraying starting fluid all around with out a fire extinguisher near by, then it's not really your freind
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
There could be a vacuum leak coming from anywhere considering you had both IM's off. pyroil extra strength starting fluid is your freind, unless of course in the rare case it happens to start a fire and your a dumb-*** and were spraying starting fluid all around with out a fire extinguisher near by, then it's not really your freind
My car was doing a similar thing and I went a looked at it tonight. Turns out my IACV-AAC VALVE was stuck open so the engine was trying to idle too high. The ECU wouldn't have it so at a round 2000 rpm it'd shut down the fun till the RPM would drop. Then it'd turn it back on and the action would repeat. Vroom.....Vroom Non stop. So to me it sounds like you have too much air getting into the intake either through the IACV-AAC VALVE or some other source. I'm not sure if it will help you but the way I verified mine was I removed the airflow meter from the throttle body then started the car. I covered the hole in the inside bottom of the intake (which was sucking air loudly) with a tool. DO NOT use your finger or hand. Engines can pull some good vacume. With the hole mostly covered the car idled beautifully.
I pulled my IACV-AAC VALVE off and ran some tests (my engine is a 5th gen so it should run with it and it used to). Turns out my IACV-AAC VALVE is broken.
Interested in selling your 5th gen IACV-AAC VALVE? Is it from a 2000 or 2001?
I pulled my IACV-AAC VALVE off and ran some tests (my engine is a 5th gen so it should run with it and it used to). Turns out my IACV-AAC VALVE is broken.
Interested in selling your 5th gen IACV-AAC VALVE? Is it from a 2000 or 2001?
OK here is what I've learned. if your using the the 4th gen IACV for the swap. you have 2 choice's. if you use the 5th gen TB your gonna need a block off plate or get the TB adapter and use the 4th gen TB. because the 5th gen TB has the IACV attached to the bottom, air will be sucked through cause it's not regulated. the 4th gen TB doesn't have that problem
the engine is a 2000, if your talking about the IACV attached to the bottom of the TB yea I'll sell PM me
Originally Posted by Thaniel
Interested in selling your 5th gen IACV-AAC VALVE? Is it from a 2000 or 2001?
Hate to bump an old thread, but i'm running into the same issues with my DEK swap, what was the end result of this? I wired up the plug for the IACV and plugged it right into the 5th gen IACV (same method as twising the 4th gen plug and breaking the connector). Same problem as OP. Runs fine for like 5 seconds, then it jumps from 2k-2.5k. Checked it out with a vac gauge and its bouncing between 18-22hg, which is pretty normal and its relative to the rpms. Do I have a crapped out IACV? Its letting air in, then closing it off, in off, etc.
I've read like 6 threads so far with no clear direction to take this in. Thanks. No codes at all, I have a 95.
I've read like 6 threads so far with no clear direction to take this in. Thanks. No codes at all, I have a 95.
Last edited by TJ_Max; Nov 7, 2008 at 12:56 AM.
Actually, it isnt that weird, the EGR temp sensor is plugged in, and the EVAP is NOT monitored on early model 95s. I have a 95 with a 4/1994 production date
pretty sweet huh? Actually got rid of evap and EGR and still no codes. Light isn't blown and I own a scanner. My big quesiton before I start picking brains is....
The 4th gen plug, does it go in 180 degrees or NOT? I used the 5th gen IACV connector and wired it up 180 degrees from the 4th gen IACV so that it would be a clean plug and play set up.
To 180 degree or not? Could that be it?
Hate to bump an old thread, but i'm running into the same issues with my DEK swap, what was the end result of this? I wired up the plug for the IACV and plugged it right into the 5th gen IACV (same method as twising the 4th gen plug and breaking the connector). Same problem as OP. Runs fine for like 5 seconds, then it jumps from 2k-2.5k. Checked it out with a vac gauge and its bouncing between 18-22hg, which is pretty normal and its relative to the rpms. Do I have a crapped out IACV? Its letting air in, then closing it off, in off, etc.
I've read like 6 threads so far with no clear direction to take this in. Thanks. No codes at all, I have a 95.
I've read like 6 threads so far with no clear direction to take this in. Thanks. No codes at all, I have a 95.
Could be or could be wiring or some other vacume leak. The bouncing on my car came from a uncontrolled RPM gain (my IACV stuck open) then The computer pulling a fuel cut. Then turning the fuel back on over and over. IACV wasn't actually moving at all. I'd suggest finding out if the IACV moves. If memory serves me right if you turn the key to on the computer will move it to set the initial startup idle or something (that buzzing when you first turn the key). When mine crapped out the buzzing no longer happened (first clue). you could also remove the intake hose and block the opening to the IACV gradually (don't use your fingers it pulls too much vac) and see if that can bring the idle in line. (If not you have a VAC leak).
Good luck.
Thaniel
Actually, it isnt that weird, the EGR temp sensor is plugged in, and the EVAP is NOT monitored on early model 95s. I have a 95 with a 4/1994 production date
pretty sweet huh? Actually got rid of evap and EGR and still no codes. Light isn't blown and I own a scanner.
My big quesiton before I start picking brains is....
The 4th gen plug, does it go in 180 degrees or NOT? I used the 5th gen IACV connector and wired it up 180 degrees from the 4th gen IACV so that it would be a clean plug and play set up.
To 180 degree or not? Could that be it?
pretty sweet huh? Actually got rid of evap and EGR and still no codes. Light isn't blown and I own a scanner. My big quesiton before I start picking brains is....
The 4th gen plug, does it go in 180 degrees or NOT? I used the 5th gen IACV connector and wired it up 180 degrees from the 4th gen IACV so that it would be a clean plug and play set up.
To 180 degree or not? Could that be it?
Thanks for the input guys. I had the connector wired in backwards for the IACV! A friend of mine has a DEK swap and could have sworn it went in backwards. After my 5th one, why did I doubt myself? LOL. Thanks again though fellas.
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