so is it safe to say that Ksports are quality coilovers?
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so is it safe to say that Ksports are quality coilovers?
before anything, i must *knock on wood* * knock on wood*. been running ksports for 2 full years and no problems. no blown shocks or anything. i never maintain them either.
how about the rest of you guys sporting ksports or d2's? any problems so far? if so what kind? just want to know if its safe to consider them quality kits. how happy are you with the product?
i love them except for the garbage wrench they provide you with to loosen the collar. i bent both of mine and they arent very easy on ur palms either. and i find it rather difficult to loosen them. height adjusting is rather a PITA too. other than that, quality wise, im satisfied.
how about the rest of you guys sporting ksports or d2's? any problems so far? if so what kind? just want to know if its safe to consider them quality kits. how happy are you with the product?
i love them except for the garbage wrench they provide you with to loosen the collar. i bent both of mine and they arent very easy on ur palms either. and i find it rather difficult to loosen them. height adjusting is rather a PITA too. other than that, quality wise, im satisfied.
Yep, I bent both my wrenches already too. The wrenches and the spring collars are really cheap compared to my old Teins. The ksport spring collars chip very easily and I actually rounded off one or two of the edges.
Mine click and the springs bind every time I turn. After 2 months, the crap ksport spring isolators are shredded to pieces already. I just bought some ES poly isolators and hopefully they will take of that problem. I do not consider them to be quality coilovers, but I will say they are worth what I paid (and that is not very much).
Mine click and the springs bind every time I turn. After 2 months, the crap ksport spring isolators are shredded to pieces already. I just bought some ES poly isolators and hopefully they will take of that problem. I do not consider them to be quality coilovers, but I will say they are worth what I paid (and that is not very much).
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not quality, but inexpensive. ride sucks for all my passengers, im used to it. ride is even worse on blown shocks
VIP - how do you know your shocks are not blown? are they leaking? your also in CA so that helps.
i dont use those wrenches. i use a huge screw driver and hammer
VIP - how do you know your shocks are not blown? are they leaking? your also in CA so that helps.
i dont use those wrenches. i use a huge screw driver and hammer
VIP if you lived in a big city like Chicago with tons of potholes and winters, those Ksports would have been garbage by now.
My JICs are now almost 4 years old..... oh and they ride like a dream.
My JICs are now almost 4 years old..... oh and they ride like a dream.
Originally Posted by ewuzh
Yep, I bent both my wrenches already too. The wrenches and the spring collars are really cheap compared to my old Teins. The ksport spring collars chip very easily and I actually rounded off one or two of the edges.
Mine click and the springs bind every time I turn. After 2 months, the crap ksport spring isolators are shredded to pieces already. I just bought some ES poly isolators and hopefully they will take of that problem. I do not consider them to be quality coilovers, but I will say they are worth what I paid (and that is not very much).
Mine click and the springs bind every time I turn. After 2 months, the crap ksport spring isolators are shredded to pieces already. I just bought some ES poly isolators and hopefully they will take of that problem. I do not consider them to be quality coilovers, but I will say they are worth what I paid (and that is not very much).
klick sports ftl!!!! ....
boss chen brass spring isolators ftw!...
For what I paid for them they seem alright. But then again the roads here aren't crap, just average, and I don't drive the car in the winter.
Properly lubing and installing though I've never had noises, only if the collars weren't tight enough.
Properly lubing and installing though I've never had noises, only if the collars weren't tight enough.
I actually love my D2's.. this is the 3rd summer I've had them on..
keep in mind I remove them during the winter ( I run stock schocks and springs in winter)..
as for potholes, I avoid them ( trust me, Quebec( canada) im sure is like the capital of potholes plus the fact the city uses massive salt in winter)..
but a quick question.. how do you guys "raise" the suspension? cause I need to raise the rear approx 1/2 inch more, but I've used the wrenches and now, I think I've raised them to the max by spinning the rings.. do you suggest I raise the car by raising the whole perch/shock by spinning it (at the current time, the black threaded part of the shock actually sticks out of the bottom of the part that bolts onto the wheel hub) --- I hope my explanation was clear?
keep in mind I remove them during the winter ( I run stock schocks and springs in winter)..
as for potholes, I avoid them ( trust me, Quebec( canada) im sure is like the capital of potholes plus the fact the city uses massive salt in winter)..
but a quick question.. how do you guys "raise" the suspension? cause I need to raise the rear approx 1/2 inch more, but I've used the wrenches and now, I think I've raised them to the max by spinning the rings.. do you suggest I raise the car by raising the whole perch/shock by spinning it (at the current time, the black threaded part of the shock actually sticks out of the bottom of the part that bolts onto the wheel hub) --- I hope my explanation was clear?
No idea and I'm not willing to find out. My Tosers are killing me, I've adjusted them time and time again and still isn't to the point where I want them to be. My latest research here on the .org puts these at 12kgf/9kgr ... meep. Bouncy!
I think I'm going to go with a spring/strut setup later this year.
I think I'm going to go with a spring/strut setup later this year.
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
d00df00d thinks they are total junk......just ask him.....he's blown out at least 3 dampers last I remember.....
d00df00d finds little amusement in 97SEdriver's baiting.

d00df00d has blown 5 dampers. But he was a retard setting them up initially and then drove on them year-round around Philly and NYC, so he has no one to blame but himself for at least 4 of those blowouts.
To the OP: I would definitely not call them "quality" regardless of how long they last because their dampers are pretty primitive: they control body motion adequately but don't really do much to absorb small bumps. What I would call them is "perfectly adequate for the price."
Originally Posted by d00df00d
d00df00d does not think they are total junk. 97SEdriver just trolls every single thread that d00df00d posts in about Ksports as a means to taunt d00df00d about never autocrossing.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
d00df00d finds little amusement in 97SEdriver's baiting.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
d00df00d has blown 5 dampers. But he was a retard setting them up initially and then drove on them year-round around Philly and NYC, so he has no one to blame but himself for at least 4 of those blowouts.
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
that's not completely true...you didn't post in this thread yet....

Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
Not for nothing, but you don't think you should be able to drive on them year round? I got turned off to the idea of coilovers when I called JiC, and they told me to rebuild the dampers every two years. At that point, I came to conclusion with 1 kid, and one on the way, I can't be spending a guaranteed $400 every few years because my dampers blew out. I could put that money to better use, or at least potentially smarter.........I didn't want to explain it to the wife either......
I just don't think it's possible to have coilovers with such stiff springs that are guaranteed to stand up to use on rough roads in winter unless you are willing to spend thousands of dollars.
It's important to note, though, that the important part of what I was saying was the part about my idiocy setting them up initially. I set the springs lower than they should have been to allow fine-tuning of the ride height without unbolting the lower mounts, but ended up dialing out precious damper travel in the process. My usage patterns just made it worse.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
I didn't say you ONLY troll threads where I post. I said you troll ALL threads where I post. 

Originally Posted by d00df00d
IShould be able to? Yes. But I don't expect it to happen, so I don't hold the vendor accountable if something breaks.
I just don't think it's possible to have coilovers with such stiff springs that are guaranteed to stand up to use on rough roads in winter unless you are willing to spend thousands of dollars.
It's important to note, though, that the important part of what I was saying was the part about my idiocy setting them up initially. I set the springs lower than they should have been to allow fine-tuning of the ride height without unbolting the lower mounts, but ended up dialing out precious damper travel in the process. My usage patterns just made it worse.
I just don't think it's possible to have coilovers with such stiff springs that are guaranteed to stand up to use on rough roads in winter unless you are willing to spend thousands of dollars.
It's important to note, though, that the important part of what I was saying was the part about my idiocy setting them up initially. I set the springs lower than they should have been to allow fine-tuning of the ride height without unbolting the lower mounts, but ended up dialing out precious damper travel in the process. My usage patterns just made it worse.
since ksport an D2 are teh same, just one is hot orange and the other is cook purple, this is a universal question:
how do you guys "raise" the suspension? cause I need to raise the rear approx 1/2 inch more, but I've used the wrenches and now, I think I've raised them to the max by spinning the rings.. do you suggest I raise the car by raising the whole perch/shock by spinning it (at the current time, the black threaded part of the shock actually sticks out of the bottom of the part that bolts onto the wheel hub) --- I hope my explanation was clear?
how do you guys "raise" the suspension? cause I need to raise the rear approx 1/2 inch more, but I've used the wrenches and now, I think I've raised them to the max by spinning the rings.. do you suggest I raise the car by raising the whole perch/shock by spinning it (at the current time, the black threaded part of the shock actually sticks out of the bottom of the part that bolts onto the wheel hub) --- I hope my explanation was clear?
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the easiest way to raise the rears is to take off the bolt on the bottom holding the coilover in place, then twisting loose the lowest perch and furthermore twisting the bottom to the desirable height. however, if you are SOL, your bottom perch like mine is LOCKED in place and wont cut loose. i hate those damn things. you pay for piece of mind of knowing that your suspension is ride height adjustable yet you get screwed over with $hitty perchs and wrenches that bend or brake your fingers
Originally Posted by Digitized
how do you guys "raise" the suspension? cause I need to raise the rear approx 1/2 inch more, but I've used the wrenches and now, I think I've raised them to the max by spinning the rings.. do you suggest I raise the car by raising the whole perch/shock by spinning it (at the current time, the black threaded part of the shock actually sticks out of the bottom of the part that bolts onto the wheel hub) --- I hope my explanation was clear?

The whole point of this suspension is to let you adjust height without touching the position or preload of the spring. You're supposed to do it by adjusting the position of the lower mount, not the collars that the springs sit on. Those are supposed to be just high enough to keep the spring in contact with the top mount when your car is off the ground. If you set them lower than that, your dampers will blow out prematurely; if you set them higher, your car will ride poorly AND your dampers will blow out prematurely.
If the damper is sticking out of the lower mount and you've raised the spring perch "to the max".... Wow. Your car must ride like crap...
Originally Posted by VIP Maxima
the easiest way to raise the rears is to take off the bolt on the bottom holding the coilover in place, then twisting loose the lowest perch and furthermore twisting the bottom to the desirable height. however, if you are SOL, your bottom perch like mine is LOCKED in place and wont cut loose. i hate those damn things. you pay for piece of mind of knowing that your suspension is ride height adjustable yet you get screwed over with $hitty perchs and wrenches that bend or brake your fingers
Just checking.
Un-coated threads will rust. Yours did, and seized. Your best bet is a wire brush and lots of PB Blaster (or similar).
Originally Posted by d00df00d
The more I hear questions like this, the more convinced I become that very few people are actually installing their coilovers correctly. That would shed a lot of light on the question of how often they break and why... 
The whole point of this suspension is to let you adjust height without touching the position or preload of the spring. You're supposed to do it by adjusting the position of the lower mount, not the collars that the springs sit on. Those are supposed to be just high enough to keep the spring in contact with the top mount when your car is off the ground. If you set them lower than that, your dampers will blow out prematurely; if you set them higher, your car will ride poorly AND your dampers will blow out prematurely.
If the damper is sticking out of the lower mount and you've raised the spring perch "to the max".... Wow. Your car must ride like crap...

The whole point of this suspension is to let you adjust height without touching the position or preload of the spring. You're supposed to do it by adjusting the position of the lower mount, not the collars that the springs sit on. Those are supposed to be just high enough to keep the spring in contact with the top mount when your car is off the ground. If you set them lower than that, your dampers will blow out prematurely; if you set them higher, your car will ride poorly AND your dampers will blow out prematurely.
If the damper is sticking out of the lower mount and you've raised the spring perch "to the max".... Wow. Your car must ride like crap...
I've had the suspension like this for 3 yrs now and nothing has broken from it..
The springs did not come preloaded.
The damper that is sticking out is on the front shocks..
I want to raise the rear..( the rear, the damper doesn't stick out)
but if i raise the damper from the lower mount/perch, won't that weaken the lower part of the perch since inside, it will have a gap bwtween the bottom of the damper and the bottom of the mount/perch?
Originally Posted by Digitized
if i raise the damper from the lower mount/perch, won't that weaken the lower part of the perch since inside, it will have a gap bwtween the bottom of the damper and the bottom of the mount/perch?
Originally Posted by d00df00d
The black collar thing at the bottom also screws onto the damper and distributes the load so not all of it is at the top of the mount.
I will try raising it from the bottom next year..
I just found that the black collar thing ( with the threads), would sit/be more stable in the damper if it was sitting at the bottom of the "sleeve/damper"..
I had thought, if there is a gap in between, it will only be a matter of time before the damper/sleeve ( bottom purple part of the rear unit)will weaken..
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