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Rear deforster barely works

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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #1  
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Rear deforster barely works

I just acquired this 3rd gen and I noticed that only 2 or 3 of the lines on the rear defroster grid seem to clear. Any clues?
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by gapboi210
I just acquired this 3rd gen and I noticed that only 2 or 3 of the lines on the rear defroster grid seem to clear. Any clues?

Check the defroster lines for breaks (even small ones). then place and tape some aluminium foil over the breaks.
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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the window is tinted so i guess i would to remove the tint to repair it.
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Removing that rear tint is horrible, horrible job. You will hate your life, and destroy even more of the defroster. I did this because the tint put in by the last owner started to bubble and I couldnt see what was behind me with any certainty.

There is a procedure in the FSM to diagnose and fix the defroster, I can put up the 2 pages here if you wish. Its EL 105 and EL 106.
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
Removing that rear tint is horrible, horrible job. You will hate your life, and destroy even more of the defroster. I did this because the tint put in by the last owner started to bubble and I couldnt see what was behind me with any certainty.

There is a procedure in the FSM to diagnose and fix the defroster, I can put up the 2 pages here if you wish. Its EL 105 and EL 106.
Definitive answer on your problem. You will screw up the defroster more when you take off the tint and the FSM does have a detailed check and fix.
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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if you could post it please. I am guessing if only 2-3 lines work then it means ALL the others have a break in them......yay
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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If 2 or 3 lines work now, it's a pretty good be none will by the time you're done scraping that tint off. BTW, plain old run of the mill rubbing alcohol works wonders at softening up the window tint glue, but you have to get it off the window pretty quickly after wiping the alcohol on it, because the alcohol dries pretty quickly, so the glue hardens back up pretty quickly.
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gapboi210
if you could post it please. I am guessing if only 2-3 lines work then it means ALL the others have a break in them......yay
yay - check your pm for link to fsm
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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Here are the specific pages anyway, in case someone is running a search later:


Old Nov 15, 2007 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
There is a procedure in the FSM to diagnose and fix the defroster, I can put up the 2 pages here if you wish. Its EL 105 and EL 106.
My defroster doesn't work at all The light on dash board turns on but nothing else happens.

What is FSM? Is it available online?
Old Nov 15, 2007 | 01:15 PM
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FSM = Factory Service Manual.
if you google maxima FSM you should be able to find it.
Old Nov 15, 2007 | 01:25 PM
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you can get this defroster repair paint at most auto stores. Mask on either side of the broken wire with tape and just paint it on. It's conductive (silver filled) and bridges the broken gap in the wire electrically. As for the tint, I don't know what to do here. Perhaps slit it with a razor over the break? No good options there.
Old Nov 15, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mfghazi
My defroster doesn't work at all The light on dash board turns on but nothing else happens.

What is FSM? Is it available online?
I'm not sure if the light would come on if the fuse is bad, but it might not be a bad idea to check the fuse anyway. Its unusual for all lines to go bad.
Old Nov 15, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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Bad news topic. It goes out on any and every car.

Last edited by '90_Maxima; Nov 15, 2007 at 09:32 PM.
Old Nov 15, 2007 | 11:40 PM
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I never seen a rear defroster be a common thing to fail. Hell there aren't any moving parts. I think mine doesn't work right cause whoever tinted the window.
Old Nov 16, 2007 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by gapboi210
I never seen a rear defroster be a common thing to fail. Hell there aren't any moving parts. I think mine doesn't work right cause whoever tinted the window.
a rear window defogger on a fixed rear window vehicle should never fail in normal usage.
if someone takes a scraper to it, or leaves crap on the rear deck that can nick the lines, then it will have problems.
Old Nov 16, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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Well, here in Texas I've always seen them fail at one point in time, or another. A few of the lines will go out, then a few more. I don't know if it's because of the high heat, or what, but I've owned many vehicles with rear window defrosters that either were completely out, or on their way out.
Old Nov 16, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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How can something designed to make heat fail from a level of heat that is probably lower than it operates at?

I'm in for the scratch theory. I scratched a few of mine when I was removing old tint, have yet to fix them though.
Old Nov 17, 2007 | 02:28 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
How can something designed to make heat fail from a level of heat that is probably lower than it operates at?

I'm in for the scratch theory. I scratched a few of mine when I was removing old tint, have yet to fix them though.
It could be like oven burners or anything else goes out that are made to heat up and cool down.

I know anytime you remove the tint you have to replace the window if it's a rear window defroster...and maybe scratching is a concern. But, I've run into quite a few rear windows here in TX where they either don't want to work or barely want to...and have never seemed to be tampered with....
Old Nov 17, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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Mine looks like it has one break in a line. I wonder if it is like a circuit and it is preventing the others from working.
Old Nov 17, 2007 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gapboi210
Mine looks like it has one break in a line. I wonder if it is like a circuit and it is preventing the others from working.
nope, each line can break and the other good ones will still work.
I think one of my cars had 1 line working
Old Nov 17, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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well teh break isn't on the line it is on the bottom where it curves and gets thick
Old Nov 19, 2007 | 12:52 AM
  #23  
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could the plug in be corroded? right there on the bottom corners
( i think ones the antenna booster )there is alot of
moisture and fogging in that area
Old Nov 21, 2007 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mfghazi
My defroster doesn't work at all The light on dash board turns on but nothing else happens.

What is FSM? Is it available online?
FSM from niccoclub.com
hope this helps
Old Nov 22, 2007 | 08:03 AM
  #25  
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I had to remove the rear tint as well and ended up damaging at least a couple of lines. I found that it was primarily due to me using the wrong equipment to take it off....too abrasive a pad. A softer dish washing pad will not damage your defroster unless you are simply too aggressive and impatient.

I second checking the plugs on the back glass, I had done some work in the rear and left one connector unplugged. Also, it took me a year to find a defroster repair kit. They finally had some in at AutoZone...it was about $10. They also sell a tint remover kit, but can't use the razor to scrap off the excess glue due to the narrow spaces between the defrost lines.

I had originally looked into having a tint shop remove the rear tint for me. They told me they charge extra for removing old tint and moaned when I told them what I wanted them to do. I think they wanted like $50 or so just to remove the back glass tint. In hindsight it would have been worth it for me, personally. It truly is an ugly job. I'm waiting for Mike Roe to do this "Dirty Job."
Old Nov 22, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by maximagician
could the plug in be corroded? right there on the bottom corners
( i think ones the antenna booster )there is alot of
moisture and fogging in that area
oh and the plugs are behind the rear pillar covers which pop on and off
and maybe slid away from the rear?
and can be moved even with the rear shoulder belt still going thru them
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