I did a search and it looks like most people with this problem are those that did a 5 speed swap. Has anyone figured out how to get rid of it? I can start my car without the car being in neutral so I think that has something to do with it.

1003 - park/neutral position switch

1003 is triggered when, "The signal of the park/neutral position switch is not changed in the process of engine starting and driving."

 

edited/deleted........

 

I wish i could just live with it but im 6 months overdue for my smog test and cali is stupid and wont let me pass with any codes at all, emissions related or not.

so is this a harness related problem? Does the auto harness just not have the right connector for this sensor? I'm wondering if I can just connect the p/n sensor to the wires that used to connect to the auto p/n sensor.

 

I don't have the code but I wired the PN switch to the back of the clutch pedal so I could have cruise control.

 

Yeah that's what I was saying, and mass is the same way every two years though........

After a quick look in the fsm I believe it is as simple as running a wire between ecm terminal #22 and the G/W wire on the 5-speed R/N switch, and also have the Black wire on the R/N switch running to ground. I really think it's that simple, you should try that...........

 

this may help, #22 is what you're looking for......

 

Taken directly from www.dynomagic.com

In step 1.5, it says to connect two wires on the tranny harness. You instead, need to run a wire from both of the tranny wires, to the clutch pedal switch (small switch that is engaged when you push the clutch all the way down). This will let your car know when it is "Neutral (since it thinks it is an automatic)".. your reason for doing this, is so that 1. You cant start the car without the clutch(safety)... and #2, SO CRUISE CONTROL WILL WORK.

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So in other words, you wire up the p/n wiring like so: Connect 1 wire from the ORIGINAL AUTO TRANNY harness (the only one with 2 wires running near the tranny) to one end of the clutch pedal switch, and the other clutch pedal switch wire to the other tranny wire. This will in turn send a signal to the ECU when the car is in neutral, and when it isn't in neutral. This should've been your first step to the 5spd swap.

BTW, you don't even need a ECU pinout, you simply run wiring through the firewall to the tranny wires. That's it.

 

NO NO NO! that wire is for the starting system, it does NOT send a signal to the ecu, with it hooked up like that you will STILL get 1003, the starting system is completely seperate from the ecu. Keep it how you have it (for the a/t p/n relay and cruise) and also do as I listed above.

 

is it pin 22 or 27? my FSM for 99 maxima shows pin 27

btw. when im looking on that FSM it looks like you (WE) dont have to run a wire to that pin in ECU. We can just connect G/W wire from tranny to R/G wire which is on auto tranny conector (auto P/N switch)

 

99 have some pins that are different so that might explain it

 

Actually I don't believe you can do it that way, the R/G wire on the auto harness sends a 12v signal to the tcm which grounds out pin 22 (27 on '99's apparantly).

I can't say 'we', I'm originally a 5-speed, but someone who I did a conversion for is coming up this saturday to pick up some axles, if no-one else tries this before then I geuss we will know soon enough..........

 

hmm
in my FSM says its 5V not 12

 

interesting, sometime tommorrow I'll download the '99 fsm and take a look, but as far as pre-99's go: pin #22 needs to be 'open' during driving conditions, ie it is grounded only in nuetral (or park & neutral via the tcm on an auto)

 

Strange, because I don't have a 1003 code on my 98 auto ECU. Perhaps I have a factory freak?

 

lucky you!!!

 

i think only 5-speed ECUs throw the code. My auto ECU didnt have 1003 but it had all kinda of transmission codes as expected.

 

deleted, see above post.........

So blazinchimp, you get a chance to run some wires yet?

 

i did not have it either when i was running on auto ECU

 

If your worried about the smog test just take out your cluster remove the bulbs for the lights go in for the test and after just put the bulbs back in. I know in illinois all they do is test your evap system or whatever its called. They just plug into the obd2 port and run some tests but they dont check for any codes. Hey in your state when they plug you in do they run a complete system check? like with a nissan consult tool kind of thing, if they dont then just pull the bulbs.

 

Unfortunatly in both massachusetts and cali they hook up to the obdII port and not only check for codes but also the 'readiness checks' to make sure you didn't just recently reset the ecu......

 

Dam that sucks, hey you try running a resistor into that sensor? That might be a temp solution just to get through the emisions

 

I just wanted to add an update since I'm sure many in this forum probably haven't noticed the thread in the 4th gen forum. Someone tried wiring it up like I mentioned, and it works.....

it is as simple as running a wire between ecm terminal #22 and the G/W wire on the 5-speed R/N switch, and also have the Black wire on the R/N switch running to ground. If you're '99 then use pin #27. This is for manual ecu's only of course.

 

awesome, i've been having this code since doing the 5spd swap. just curious though, does it cause the CEL to come on? i know some codes don't make the CEL come on, and i have a couple other ones so i don't know if the 1003 is responsible or not.

 

Code 1003 or also known as P0705 is a Park Neutral switch code that appears when the signal of the park/neutral position switch is not changed in the process of engine starting and driving.

For those of you that did the 5spd swap and put in a 5spd ECU will usually get this code.
How to fix it:

It is simple as running a wire from Pin 22 (pin 27 for 99s) on the 5spd ECU to the G/W cable or pin 2 on the position switch sensor, and then grounding the black cable or pin 4 on the position switch sensor.

credit goes to KRRZ350 from the org

 

That someone will be me, but ohwell. Big thanks to Krrz350

also it might be a hassle trying to wire pin 22 all the way to the engine bay so this is what I did.

I found out that pin 22 goes to pin 13 on the TCU and also found out that pin 19's wire(R/G) from the TCU goes all the way to the inhibitor switch plug in the engine bay, so I jumped pin 13 to pin 19 on the TCU harness. Then spliced the G/W cable (pin 2) from the trans to the R/G cable on the inhibitor switch plug. then grounded the black cable (pin 4) one from the trans.

I'm not liable for the mistakes you make from my instructions. But you can PM me if you need help.

 

whats good about splicing terminals on TCU and inhibitor switch?

 

It avoids having to run your own wire from the ecu to the r/n switch.

DarkLegend that is absolutely genius, I'm super impressed

 

good job toshi, proud of you son...

 

ok but its not gonna work if your TCU is out

 

Yes it will, assuming your TCU harness is still there, you don't actually run anything through the tcu, you're just connecting two of the wires togethor on the tcu harness, once you connect tcu wires 13 & 19 togethor it makes it so the r/g wire on the unused inhibiter switch plug is going directly to pin #22 on the ecu. So woila, by connecting those 2 wires you instantly have a wire from pin #22 right to the engine bay!

 

So do I simply splice a wire from the #22 pin or do I need to cut the #22 pin wire and run it straight to the switch?

 

Also Im still unsure which harness is the P/N switch harness. How many pins are on that harness? I couldnt find one with G/W (green/white?) wire.

Is it one of these?

 

California diagnostic for smog INCLUDES checking the functionality of the CEL. If the bulb is pulled out it wont turn on with the key in the on position...

If your going to cheat the system...do it the RIGHT way and wire it with the battery light There is only about a half of a second delay between the two lights or less...no one will notice...

 

for me running wire from P/N switch to ECU sounds much easier

 

which harness is the p/n?

 

that one which comes out from bottom of your tranny

 

Thank you very much. I been looking at the top

 

any questions PM me, I'm not a person that lurks around the all motor forums.

 

so can somebody w/ an FSM or knows clarify quickly:

1st: what colors are wires 13 and 19 out of the TCM? there's no numbering anywhere on the harness or the TCM and i don't have a FSM. or which way are they numbered?

2nd: are you sure pin 2 and 4 are the correct ones to use? there's 4 pins available on my P/N harness, and i'm using pins 2 and 4 for my reverse lights (hooked up to the green and green/white wire). pins 1 and 3 are continuous when my car is in neutral, but right now not hooked up to anything. the old wires that came off that were black and i think green/orange, which are now hooked up to the switch on the back of my clutch pedal. so this is where i'm confused, am i not supposed to use pins 1 and 3 (because no wires are hooked up to them in the harness right now)? when you say splice, do u mean leave the green/white wire (which i am using for my reverse lights) and run another wire off of it to the inhibitor switch plug (as opposed to cutting the wire)? and i see 2 red/green wires that are cut from when i did the swap a long time ago, so are those from the inhibitor switch?

thanks.

 

okay i think i got it figured out today. my P/N position sensor was from an 01, so the pins are arranged and numbered differently, which threw me off. anyway, so you guys can learn from what i spent an afternoon scratching my head about i typed up a writeup to help you guys. i took some pics and i was going to upload to cardomain w/ the writeup so ppl can check it out, but it's giving me problems so i'll do that later. thanks to krrz and darklegend for initializing this project otherwise if i didn't see this info i probably would not have looked into it later.


so here's the brief writeup i just typed up of how to fix the 1003. i'll upload pics later:
1003 is triggered when, "The signal of the park/neutral position switch is not changed in the process of engine starting and driving."

If you did a 5speed conversion and you’re using a 5spd ECU and have pulled out the TCU, its likely you have this code.

To correct this, it is as simple as running a wire from the park/neutral position switch to pin 22 of the 5spd ECU. Now the park/neutral position switch has 4 pins. Two of them will be continuous when the transmission is in reverse, and two of them will be continuous when the transmission is in neutral. I used an 01 maxima tranny w/ the park/neutral position sensor, so my pin numbers differ from those of you using a 4th generation tranny and sensor. Either way, it’s a good idea to identify those pins by putting the tranny in neutral and reverse and checking for continuity with a voltimeter. The 2 pins you find continuity in when in neutral are the ones you want to use for this case.

Now, you can run a wire from the P/N pos switch to pin 22 of the ecu, but I find running a wire from the engine bay into the cabin is a pain in the butt. So, I like to make use of what I already have. There are several wires from the inhibitor switch that run to the TCU, and then there is a wire that runs from pin 13 of the TCU to pin 22 of the ECU. Bingo!
So to make use of this, you’ll have to access the TCU wiring harness (which if you did the 5spd conversion and pulled the TCU, you should know where it is) and cut the wire from pin 13 and cut the wire that runs out to the engine bay that you plan on using to connect to the P/N pos switch (in my case I used pin 16, a purple/white wire).
You can also cut the wire in pin 17 (P/B), 18 (Y/L), and a few others. After you cut the two wires, put them together (I like to solder them together and wrap up with electrical tape).
Now go out to the engine bay and find the wire you’re using (in my case, the Pu/W wire), extend that to one of two pins for neutral (which you checked earlier w/ the voltimeter) on the P/N pos switch. Then, grab some extra wire and ground the other pin (I just spliced it into a nearby running black wire, which I believe is ground by default).
Then, reset your ecu and hopefully 1003 doesn’t come back again.