Just wanted to share that I finally have the Emanage Ultimate installed and fully up and running in my CA spec ‘99 5spd Maxima. I believe I’m the first to install one in a ’99. Car starts right up and idles like stock. During driving, there are no indications that the EU is even there. Car drives and pulls like it did before the install (like it should).


Key points I would like to share:
1. ECU pinout for 99 is much different than 95-98’s. Regarding installation of the EU, pin 44 needs to be changed to pin 46.

2. Jumper Pin 13 must be set to OPEN (not 1-2 as shown on page 27 of Dan's writeup), otherwise your fans will not kick on and your car will overheat. I've tested this. Thanks for the footnote Dan!!

3. The 99 FSM is all screwed up, so don’t go by it. Hours and hours were wasted trying to figure out the 99 FSM and compare it to the other year FSM’s I have. The 99 FSM led me to believe that 3 pinouts had to be changed at first. Before I hacked or cut a single wire, I did a continuity test (per Dan’s recommendation) and figured out which wires were really what. Only one wire on Dandy’s ECU diagram had to be switched as stated above.

4. My Emanage Ultimate is version D. I don’t have any CEL’s!!
This illustrates that resistors don’t need to be soldered in (for version D).

5. Also, I have no issues with burning/melting coilpacks as some have experienced.



Thanks to Peter (Godfather) for answering my emails during the preliminary planning stage a while back.

Last but not least, I would like to give a big thank you to Dan (Dandymax). I sent him 3 or 4 emails asking for help/clarification on several issues before the install. Dan always got back to me within 24 hours or so, and provided in depth explanations. With his awesome writeup, and his “tech support”, he made the install a breeze and trouble free. Lastly, I found many, many mistakes in Greddy’s install manual (more on that later), but couldn’t find one in Dan’s writeup! Great job Dan!

Next up is bigger injectors and some real tuning.

More details and pics to come. Stay tuned.

-James

Edit: After checking my notes, I modifed my post to reflect the correct Pin change. Also noted by Dandy is post #7

 

Congrats on the successful installation. Please demonstrate the best of EU. I can't wait to convince myself to get it. Nothing beats 15-20 silent HP and knowing you car is potentially running healthier with more accurate O2 readings.

 

Very glad to hear. Yet another member with some more knowledge to help out the new 'to be users'

Explain ...

 

Very nice.. There is the ?? CAM Reference signal ?? I think that alot of guys were having problems with. You figured that out ??

 

Thanks for sharing.


And your avatar...kinda bootleg lookin', but it works.

 

Well you are going to be healthier/more efficient if your car isn't running consistently a little rich, dumping extra gas, losing a few ponies, and putting extra carbon deposits everywhere. If you are lean, well then clearly that isn't a very good thing.

EDIT: my bad ... I was insinuating that he had a wideband 02 in addition to EU. I always kinda make that assumption because EU is basically 50% unusable without a WB02. That is unless the entire plan was just to advance timing, datalog, and use 2-step or something.

Did you install WB02 Wizard?

 

Congrats James, good to hear it went well. I do have a few comments to make though...


As per your findings with the continuity test the crank and cam lines are slightly different on the 99's as opposed to earlier 4th gens. I might as well post them (hope you don't mind):

For 99's only: Crank REF is pin 46 instead of 44, the POS is the same on 49, and the CAM is 48 (but not needed for the EU).

BTW, a couple weeks ago I did revise my writeup with a couple notes for the "lucky" 99's and sent it to Luke so the VQPower version should be current.


I hate to be the bearer of bad news but they will be needed for most A32/33's, even on version D. I have installed a "D" and an "E" board lately and still needed them. I don't know if it's related to the ECU type whether the code comes up or not, and sometimes it seems to take a few driving cycles so you may yet get a code.. who knows.


I'm still 90% sure that's mostly a myth. The few cases I know of were found after the fact to have been caused by faulty wiring, or other non-related issues. The only one I'm not sure about right now is eng92's... but he didn't have resistors, and I don't know if that plays into it or not.


Your welcome! Hmm you know it occurs to me that's one area that I never got around to including in the writeup (listing the Greddy manuals' mistakes). The writeup got big enough as it was.. lol. Although as you've said, if one follows the writeup there shouldn't be an issue as it contains the corrections without actually spelling out what all the Greddy errors were.

Again congrats on the successful install. Oh and nice avatar..

 

Yes, an Innovate LC-1 is tied into the EU. For monitoring purposes, a XD-16 A/F gauge is mounted on the steering column in a custom made gauge pod.

No doubt. My first photochop ever.

 

where are the pictars!?

 

congrat on the install james . would the install be the same as for a 99 fed like the 99ca

 

I should remove Godfathrxx's writeup until he can give me a more concrete version. That would be terrible for someone to completely fubar their wiring harness by following it.

 

Here you go Alfonso...







The red connections you see are for the wires that get tapped. The taps are 2.5" of wire with a female connection on the end. I crimped a male connector on each of Greddy's bare tap wires. It did it this way so the EU can be removed quickly and easily from the system if need be.

The clear connections are the connections Greddy provided and are for the intercepted lines. It worked out really nice because Greddy would put a female connection on say Injector #1 IN and a male connection on the Injector #1 OUT. All I did was crimp on the opposite of each onto the OEM harness. If the EU is taken out of the car, the female/male Greddy connections will join together and the car is back to stock.

I plan on installing it under the seat and running the harness cable under the center console for a super clean look. When it's done, it will look like it's not even there......

 

Tommy, as far as I can tell from the FSM, the install will be the same for your '99 fed spec max as my '99 CA spec max. It couldn't hurt though to do a continuity test on the crank REF sensor to make sure; very simple procedure.

 

Solder FTW. The first thing I did was throw those Greddy Connectors.

Definetly good labeling. I did that as well just so if you ever have to trace a problem.

-matt

 

good job james.. looks really clean..

 

good god, thats a lot of wiring

 

Please tell me you got the 2 step working???? And what the latest version of EU out right now guys??? I need to know, I will be doing this in weeks to follow.

 

as far as melting coil packs goes, i fried out one of mine, i figured out what i did wrong, dont know if its what happened to others but, when i was uplading my new "tune" my laptop connected to my wireless internet and attempted to update the software, and the combo of allthat happening fried out my #6 coil. once i put a new one in, now problems.

 

I have a motec running a VQ30 and it would fry the coils if it was left on while adjusting and had to program a delay so they would not come on until the engine was cranked over. The stand alone ECU's can bring out a lot of horsepower from the VQ. I am running a junkyard Vq30 from a 96 Maxima in my 350Z race car and with just headers I have 208 hp at the rear wheels. I have another VQ 30 that I am putting on the Nismo heads with JWT cams and I will let you know what it will do when I get it set up.
Scott

 

Let's stay on-topic.

 

Umm.. okay, so you connected to the internet, ran the update and because you did a couple things at once on your laptop then your coil blew?

No offense but this is exactly how misinformation gets spread. If you're going to blame the EU then please provide some concrete reasons/proof. Or at least give more detail- do you have resistors wired in, what version of board, how long was the key ON with the car not running, which firmware, etc?

Somebody needs to measure the coil outputs from the EU with the key ON! I'd do it myself but I won't be able to get to it for a while. We've been going for 2 years without much in the way of coil failures with the EU and now all of a sudden people are claiming blown coils? IF the EU is really causing it, then what's changed? Maybe just the newer firmware >2.00??

 

Well there is nothing wrong with f/w 1.14. I hooked up the scope to the EU tonight. One channel on coil#5 input to the EU and the other on the output.
The difference between them was negligible (within a few microvolts of 0 relative to ground)
I tried with the key on, without the software running, and also during a firmware update and the results were both the same.

I have had problems with the data logs in earlier versions of 2.xx so I removed them from my laptop. I will try monitoring the voltage during a f/w update to 2.12 in the next few days.

 

Thanks Dave, that's good info. I'm glad you measured during an update as well, I was going to suggest that also. Now if you can repeat the exercise for v2.00 and v2.12 that would be great!

EDIT: you still have no resistors on there right? (just for clarification)

 

Good job on your wiring. And I'll say I'm thoroughly impressed by you and all others who wire it directly into the main harness. If I had to be working in that small area for so long I would be dying. And also wow for all the labeling, very tedious but it does help with any confusion.

But congrats.

 

excellent ! yeah you cant beat dan and his knowledge of the EU. i think he used to work at Greddy but cant tell anyone due to some contract? now you just need somewhere to mount it.

 

I LOVE YOUR CAR.. im a ceasar groupie...

wow... this is nice.. i want to go supercharge within next year or so.. and this will be excellent...