I have looked through all of the threads I could find, but don't see anything like the problem I'm having.

I bought Raxles for my 1997 no ABS, no LS and attempted to put in a new seal (p/n 38342-81x00). The problem is how easily I'm able to put the seal in with pressure from my fingers. It sits evenly, but moves around a little bit side to side. I was sure it would leak, but went ahead and put my new axle on and it clicked in nicely. Sure enough it continued to leak a constant drip with the axle installed and torqued. There is no play with the diff. so let's not bring that up.

Is it possible the seal needs to go in further? It seems like most folks have trouble getting it started in the first place, it almost seems like the seal diameter isn't large enough and went in to easily. I read in one post that there are a few different seals depending on production year, vlsd/ od. Nissan says it only lists that seal for my car.

I will be taking the axle off again tomorrow morning, any suggestions are appreciated.

 

You can try pushing the seal in further, and since it's loose you can also try pulling it out and tapping it in again. The outer edge of the oil seal (called the case) should be flush with the tranny. You can even drive it in a little further, maybe 1/8" beyond.

I suggest using silicone sealant around the outside of the oil seal and installing it again. Use a good oil pan sealant like Hondabond. If you drain the gear oil you'll have get the bore clean and dry enough for the sealant to hold. It may help to lower the front of the car a bit when trying to clean the bore so the oil level goes down at the seal.

If you can pull it out without damaging it, I would do that and check the bore to see if there is any damage to the bore. Every axle seal I've used has been a tight fit, enough that there's no way I could move it with my fingers. If both the seal and bore are undamaged, something is wrong.

It might help too to use an aftermarket oil seal that doesn't have a metal surface on the OD. The seals I use for rebuilds are completely coated in rubber and I would suspect they might work better for your situation.

Dave

 

I will try to tap it in further with a 36mm deep socket. When you start the seal are you able to get it in to the bore with hand pressure or is it difficult to get started in the first place?

 

The left and right sides are diff part numbers, not interchangable. Double check that you have the right one.

I have an extra driver side one, still in the nissan dealership bag if u need it.

Jae

 

I am aware of the fact they're different, I have both of them. My real question is more about the proccess of seating the seal. The Nissan part goes in the bore easily, once it is in, do I need to seat it further with a socket? Or should I have trouble getting it in to the bore in the first place. My worry is that if I seat to far I might damage something.

There is no damage to the bore, no fragments or anything when I changed the GL-4. The old seal was in tightly.

Does the flatter side of the seal seat on the diff. side, with the cupped portion of the seal facing the wheel side?

 

It should not just slide into the bore. It should take a little bit of driving.

If you drive it in an extra 1/8" it won't hurt anything. IIRC there is even a step in the metal to prevent the seal from going in way too far, as if tapping in an oil seal would even begin to damage the carrier bearing.

The flat portion of the seal case faces out. The garter spring under the seal lip is on the inside, and on the outside there is a dust excluder lip that hangs out but gets covered by a shield on the CV. If you have it reversed that would explain your trouble.

Dave

 

I have the flat part of the seal case facing inward, I didn't get a chance to take the old seal out with my hand and it pretty much popped out on to the ground so I never saw which way it goes. I will give it another go tomorrow, It's a little stormy out tonight. Thanks for your help Dave.

 

Took the old seal out today, and put in the NAPA equivalent and guess what? The NAPA seal wouldn't go in with finger pressure. Weirdest thing. Anyways, I tapped it in flush with a 36mm socket and no leaks. It seams as if the aftermarket seal is a little better quality also, there is a retaining spring on the CV side of the seal that keeps it flush with the axle and the rubber seems more durable.

Passengers side tomorrow on the lift for ease of install, hope the factory seal fits more snugly this time. Otherwise another 10 bucks wasted...

Again Dave, thanks for the help.

 

I also found this to be true. The aftermarket was ever so slightly larger diameter, measured with calipers. Very strange. glad you got it fixed!
Jae