I have access to sawblades with bad no name all season tires, my 17s that have good performance tires on them, and unbalanced steelies with worn michelin all season tires on them.

The sawblade combo is the lightest, but also have the worst tires. The 17' combo is about 4lbs heavier per corner, and the steelie combo is almost the same as the 17s, maybe a 1 or 2 lbs difference.

What would be the better choice of the three? Last time i went with the sawblades and couldnt pull a better 60' than a 2.3x. The 17s feel like they have a good amount more traction than all the other choices, but they're the heaviest and biggest...

 

Man, I'd run the 17's with better traction.....cause I really cant see 16 pounds making that much of a difference.

Afterall, I would assume better traction would counter or surpass the little amount of time the 16 pounds is giving you.



Btw, my VIAS seems a bit better, but Im still gonna pull it off and take a peak inside. Probably gonna have to break the head on that last screw though....:/

 

well the 8lbs each from the fronts could be good for about .1 if good traction, but if there is a difference in traction im sure the difference is negated

 

I don't really believe you'll be able to tell any difference between the sets.

 

Ok thanks, i'll just use the 17s then. Hopefully going to the track tomorrow, but i still have a decently sized exhaust leak....vias and ks are fixed though, so im hoping for something better than 15.3@90 that i ran last time.

justin-you could possibly take off the fpr to get to that last screw with vice grips, but thats a big maybe....might have to take the manifold off or get better vice grips....you going friday?

 

Not quite sure yet, man. Didnt get a chance to mess with the VIAS today, but if I get it fixed, then yeah, Im all about it.

Im gonna put in some work tomorrow, (flush the radiator, try fixin the vias, change/flush tranny fluid, change oil, ect), so if you wanna come up and hang out, you are welcome to do so.

 

you remember nick with that red truck? he just sold that thing yesterday finally, we're going up to columbus tomorrow at 3 to hopefully pick up his new maxi...98 black 5spd, not sure if i'll make the track tomorrow, i'm gonna try my best to make it though. I'll give you a call around 6 and let you know what's goin down.

 

Sounds good man, just let me know.

(and actually, the later in the day we go, the better; say between 7-8 pm should have a good temp drop)


Btw, what nick sell that truck for?.....I know he was askin 15 for it......Also, pretty sweet he's gettin a 98 the same day....what kind of shape is it in?

 

He ended up selling it for 14k, he bought it for 14k like 6 months ago too, so not bad at all.

The 98 seems like its in pretty good shape, but we've only seen the autotrader pictures though. I hope its all good cause i dont wanna drive all the way up there and find a grinding tranny.

buahaha maybe if he buys it, he'll come up to the track with us and bring his car

 

Lighter wheels will always have better 60' times vs heavier ones given the same grip. I feel you should sell the heavier wheels and get some custom Lenso or bogart 15in wheels with your choice of DOT cheater slick. What good is it to try hard and run 2.2x-2.3x 60' on street tires when you could drive cheater slicks to the track and run 1.8x-1.9x 60'?

 

Yes, we understand.

Now read his question again.

 

The answer is still the same performance tires or all seasons would both probably cut similar 60's anyway. A street tire is a street tire, unless its a drag radial. Even then with worn tires why not run a cheater slick to get best performance. I bet a near stock max with slicks would run quicker than a mildly modded one with street tires.

 

Dude I'm sorry but your answer is irrelevant. You're basically saying "go big or go home" which has nothing to do with his two choices.




Ok, not that sorry.

 

Ended up getting POURED on, so we didnt go to the track. Going next friday with 4 maximas though, should be interesting

 

keep us posted !!

 

Negative I said even with his choices there wouldn't be much if any difference. Nothing is stopping him from taking both sets and trying them to see which gives a better time. I figure why waste time on cutting 2.1-2.2x 60' and the 14.5-14.7 @ 97-99 when he could do 13.9 -14.1s @ 96-98mph on slicks.

 

I would get slicks if that was an option, however its not. Slicks cost money, and you said get wheels too....thats gonna be what, another 500-600 bucks? with that money i could do some more real mods and run faster on street tires than i would if i bought those slicks and added no mods.

 

According to your sig it seems you have full bolt ons. At your level of mods, slicks would probably make a bigger difference than other mods. If your car can run 98-99mph in the 1/4 then with slicks you could run 13.5-13.6s with 1.8x 60' all day long. On street tires you'd be lucky to run a 14.0-14.2. Tell me a mod outside of FI that would allow you to drop so much ET?

For example my se-r ran 14.9 @ 92mph 2.1x 60' on street tires at the track, with slicks it did 14.5 @ 90mph 1.9x 60' on the same day. With a 50shot I did 13.5 @ 99mph 1.8x 60' later on the same day as well. On street tires I couldn't beat 14.3 no matter what I did with n2o.

 

Its funny, just the other night i was in my garage and was going through the same issue. I have the stock 15s steelies that came with my 00 gxe 5spd with almost new all season firestone's <came with the car>
Or i also have a set of forged 17s, but with really worn out Po Po Potenza's after weighing them both there was only a 1 pound difference between them. The 17s weighing in at 40 pounds 205 50 and the 15s 205 65 at 41 pounds.
The 15s actually have cut my best 60ft at 2.40 while the 17s pull consistantly 2.55 ish. I think ultimately what i decided to do was spend some money and buy some new performance all season tires like the kumho ecsta asx or the continental extremecontact. The continentals are some what less known than the Kumhos BUT are 1 pound lighter. I need all seasons cause i live in ny.

 

You can do much better than 2.40 60' man, how do you launch?

 

Wow 2.55 60 ft. do you just dump the clutch or something? My worst 60ft lately is still better then your PB of 2.4. You should definately aim for 2.2X range 60ft, with street tires, and if your good 2.1X range. I am glad my new wheel tire combo is almost 7lbs lighter per corner compared to stock (38lbs vs 44.6lbs)

 

It's not just the lighter weight of the 15's but also the smaller diameter which results in shorter gearing and more low-end response.

Now, that will get you a lower 60' time, but it does not guarantee a faster 1/4.

 

Doesnt work like that with street tires. The tire ends up filling up the space. If you look, the tire on a 15" rim is much taller than a tire on an 18" rim.

 

I have had multiple combos (all being street tires). there has been no difference in 60's, traps, ET, or traction for me.

Tires:
Cheapy no name 205/65/15
Goodyear eagle LS 225/50/16
Pirelli Pzreos 225/50/16 on both 6.5" and 7.5" wide wheels
Falken 451 235/40/18

My cousin ran lightish 3rd gen GXE (205/65/15 and big heavy 97-99 SE (215/60/16) wheels both front and back then switched front to rear on the same day. no difference.

 

True, as far as having equal outside diameters go. I was thinking more along the lines of the differences in rotating mass between the 15" and 16" wheels.

Maybe I have an oddball vehicle, but my 60' times were consistently lower when I drove on 215/60 x 15 tires as opposed to the 215/55 x 16 tires that I now use. Wheel size went from stock 15*6.5 wheels to stock 16*5 wheels), and the tire brands were different, too. BUT, the diameters are almost equal.

JSutter: your cousin started with a stock-sized, 4th Gen wheel+tire (205/65 x 15) and then went to a tire that was 2.5% bigger in overall diameter (215/60 x 16) than stock (215/55 x 16). I would have thought that the lighter, smaller in diameter 15's would have made a difference like they did in mine.

BTW, when you said, "no difference," did you really mean "zero difference?"

 

Same times at the track with either wheel. Yea the 60 series tires are bigger and the combo was id guess 7 lbs heavier.

 

I know I know my 60ft are pathetic. And thats my next issue im trying to tackle. My car has I/Y/E and poly mounts so far and i am cutting the 1/4 in exactly 15.0 with a 2.44 60ft i am almost certain if i could bring that down to a 2.2 or a 2.1 that i would crack into the 14s.
I usually bring it to about 2000rpm and just drop the clutch and floor it i checked the "launch technics" thread and i just dont get the "feather the clutch" method or the half throttle in first technics.
My next plan is to put some sticky ICKY tires on the forged 17s i have an try again maybe some BF'gs will do the trick.

 

"Feather the clutch" means you find the point in the clutch pedal travel where the clutch just begins to engage, and then you gently press down very slightly on the pedal to disengage the clutch, but you keep the pedal depressed at that point such that lifting your left foot just an inch or two will engage the clutch.

At the same time, you are doing the same thing with your right foot -- that is, finding the point on the gas pedal (and your tach) where the RPM's you're producing correspond to where the engine begins to make its low-end torque.

Then, you simultaneously lift the clutch while pressing down on the gas in one quick, smooth motion -- think of a see-saw with your left foot on one side and your right foot on the other.

You'll find that you'll get minimum wheel spin and maximum launch velocity doing it this way as opposed to dropping the clutch.

 

I thank you, from the bottum of my clutch.