Major issue with GOODRIDGE SS brake lines
Major issue with GOODRIDGE SS brake lines
So I did an entire brake overhaul over the weekend; new rotors, pads, rebuilt the calipers, and lastly Goodridge SS brake lines. Well I noticed that after installing the brake lines, there was a big problem:

When the wheel isn't even turned completely the line runs directly into the cv boot. The oem brake lines go straight up from the caliper, to completely avoid the cv boot and axle.
So my questions is: has anybody else had this problem and if so how did you remedy it?
I'm going to email Goodridge tomorrow after work and see if they know about this issue.

When the wheel isn't even turned completely the line runs directly into the cv boot. The oem brake lines go straight up from the caliper, to completely avoid the cv boot and axle.
So my questions is: has anybody else had this problem and if so how did you remedy it?
I'm going to email Goodridge tomorrow after work and see if they know about this issue.
Originally Posted by Snypa
i think the least we can do here is help out the NEWBIE,....damn, i think thats why he came here and posted in the first place.
Originally Posted by UncleMax98
No problem with mine. Make sure the metal end goes in between the two posts on the caliper, just like the factor rubber hose.
Originally Posted by MaxGordon7
you put them on wrong
uh, that's kind of a bold statement to make when you haven't even seen how they're actually installed. which is now the wrong way to make it work, but when they're installed correctly it puts it into the cv boot.
Originally Posted by mtrai760
says it all.
Originally Posted by mtrai760
There is a reason I have this as my tag: Read the manual stupid.
now i absolutely love this!! cause you don't ask IF i have read the manual, you just arbitrarily decide that i haven't. when in fact i've spent a minimum of three weeks reading the entire section on brakes in the hayne's manual and the FSM, and after i finished that, i re-read it, then i spent several days on maxima.org using the search function (yes some
's actually do know what that is and how to use it) to read up on anything relevant about brakes. and then i re-read the manuals again. and even then; when my problem came up i spent the weekend, once again using the search, trying to find if anyone else had already made a post about this problem. and only after all this did i decide to ask, so not all noobs are trying to make pointless threads. so
@$$
and for anybody else who might actually have some input i took some a picture while i was doing my cv boots that i think would help explain the problem better;

the factory hose has a little post to put in between the two post on the caliper to keep it in place while taking the hose straight up and to the support bracket, keeping it all far from the cv boot. but the goodridge line doesn't have that, and when you align it so that the hose goes through the post to keep it in place it points it directly at the cv boot like i was saying. so i turned them up to temporarily fix the problem.
sorry for the crappy pic, all i had was my phone. let me know if better pic's are needed and i'll try to get that. and thank you to all the others who have actually tried to help.

the factory hose has a little post to put in between the two post on the caliper to keep it in place while taking the hose straight up and to the support bracket, keeping it all far from the cv boot. but the goodridge line doesn't have that, and when you align it so that the hose goes through the post to keep it in place it points it directly at the cv boot like i was saying. so i turned them up to temporarily fix the problem.
sorry for the crappy pic, all i had was my phone. let me know if better pic's are needed and i'll try to get that. and thank you to all the others who have actually tried to help.
loks like you simply need to tighten the banjo nut in a verticle position, No post to use as alignment I would not cse the hard part of the line to hold the banjo in position while tightening the bolt
Never done this, scared of bleeding brakes, figure would be best to align same as oe lines.
Never done this, scared of bleeding brakes, figure would be best to align same as oe lines.
thurz; the driver's side is the same, just flipped. no reason other then that's the side i happened to take pictures of. the rears did fit just like the originals, i'm only having the problem in the front. that'd be good to get a picture of somebody else's.
josh; it is tightened in the vertical position, but there's nothing securing the line in between the two posts on the caliper to prevent any possible movement. and yes, it would be best to align same as oe lines, that's what i'm trying to fix.
josh; it is tightened in the vertical position, but there's nothing securing the line in between the two posts on the caliper to prevent any possible movement. and yes, it would be best to align same as oe lines, that's what i'm trying to fix.
Originally Posted by seanwn
now i absolutely love this!! cause you don't ask IF i have read the manual, you just arbitrarily decide that i haven't. when in fact i've spent a minimum of three weeks reading the entire section on brakes in the hayne's manual and the FSM, and after i finished that, i re-read it, then i spent several days on maxima.org using the search function (yes some
's actually do know what that is and how to use it) to read up on anything relevant about brakes. and then i re-read the manuals again. and even then; when my problem came up i spent the weekend, once again using the search, trying to find if anyone else had already made a post about this problem. and only after all this did i decide to ask, so not all noobs are trying to make pointless threads. so
@$$ 
jae; thanks for the pic's, now it looks like your bolt doesn't have anything securing it between the two posts on the caliper either, how long have you had your's on like that?
BTW, to sum up what has been discussed here numerous times... No aftermarket brake manufacture makes lines with the exact same fittings as Nissan. The major difference is that they are all missing the tabs which theoreticaly prevent the line from turning, which would cause the bolt to loosen up. Goodridge, Technafit, Russel, they all make their lines with the same fitting style, no tabs. They have been contacted about this before, and they do not make a fitting in that style. Why? Its not cost effective, it would only work for our cars, which is not a large enough market.
So you end up with two things that may be an issue. One is the fact that there are no tabs. The second, is that stainless steel brake lines should be frequently inspected. Once that stainless wire braid starts to break down and lets contamination through, it is only a matter of time before your line fails. This is a little talked about aspect, but stainless lines are not just 'put it on and forget them for the next decade' like most people do with there stock lines. I inspect mine every time I do an oil change, front and rear.
Everyone running these lines has them setup just like Jae, or at least pretty close to it. My latest set has been on for the last 3 years/30k miles with no issues. The bolt should be installed and torqued with an accurate torque wrench to spec. To be on the safe side, I re-checked the torque on mine after a week, but thats just me.
All of this information has been covered before. I read it before I installed mine. People are so quick to come forward and beg for help OMGMYCARISFUXOREDBECAUSEILACKINTEHSKILLSDEPARTMENT without doing any real research on their own, then you get all butt hurt when you get called out over it. I guess its 'When in doubt, panic!!!'
So you end up with two things that may be an issue. One is the fact that there are no tabs. The second, is that stainless steel brake lines should be frequently inspected. Once that stainless wire braid starts to break down and lets contamination through, it is only a matter of time before your line fails. This is a little talked about aspect, but stainless lines are not just 'put it on and forget them for the next decade' like most people do with there stock lines. I inspect mine every time I do an oil change, front and rear.
Everyone running these lines has them setup just like Jae, or at least pretty close to it. My latest set has been on for the last 3 years/30k miles with no issues. The bolt should be installed and torqued with an accurate torque wrench to spec. To be on the safe side, I re-checked the torque on mine after a week, but thats just me.
All of this information has been covered before. I read it before I installed mine. People are so quick to come forward and beg for help OMGMYCARISFUXOREDBECAUSEILACKINTEHSKILLSDEPARTMENT without doing any real research on their own, then you get all butt hurt when you get called out over it. I guess its 'When in doubt, panic!!!'
ha ha ha
well geeze thanks for the info, but for saying i didn't research and i was panicking; i did search, and i wasn't panicking. i was asking for suggestions and input. i did search, but could only find the i installed brake lines check it out and how do i change my brakes threads. i was not able to find any threads with anyone talking about how the ss brake lines don't use the factory posts for support. and if you would've just said hey this is a known problem and everybody just does it this way, or pointed me to the information which you knew was there i would've been very grateful.
but just for my own use; where was this information?
well geeze thanks for the info, but for saying i didn't research and i was panicking; i did search, and i wasn't panicking. i was asking for suggestions and input. i did search, but could only find the i installed brake lines check it out and how do i change my brakes threads. i was not able to find any threads with anyone talking about how the ss brake lines don't use the factory posts for support. and if you would've just said hey this is a known problem and everybody just does it this way, or pointed me to the information which you knew was there i would've been very grateful.but just for my own use; where was this information?
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