Does anyone know how to change a CV boot and where i can get one for cheap thanks

 

You can get a half shaft for about $60 + core. or you can buy a boot for $20. The labor is pretty much the same to install either one.

 

It takes a really long time to do. The Haynes manual has the best pictures and description on changing the CV boot. I have both the Haynes and Chilton...and Haynes is better for the CV boot because the Chilton shows a picture of a 3rd gen max and not a 4th. The CV boot can be purchased at a auto parts store or nissan dealership. What I mean by autoparts store are the store that sells only parts...not like autozone or kragens. I got mine for 7 bucks at small auto parts store

 

OH..forgot to tell you that the half shaft is $60 + core at AUTOZONE.

 

How do you know when you need a new CV boot? I am getting a bunch of black goop all over my front left wheel. Does that mean my boot is ripped/torn or is this something else? Thanks guys.

 

Turn your wheel all the way to the right. You should be able to see your boot and you can tell if it's ripped.

 

Seeing goop all over the back of your wheel is one symptom but you can see it by taking out your tire and see the CV boot run your finger around it to see if it's sercure and check to see any rip

 

I found it's easier to replace the whole half-shaft rather than replacing the boot...

Just my $0.02

 

I'll second that; I replaced the right side last night. It took me about an hour, including de-greasing the back of the wheel and the inner fender well. I would guess that removing the CV joints, replacing the boots, re-packing with grease, and then re-installing the CV shaft would take a minimum of 3 hours. Considering the big mess to clean out of the CV joints, the cost of the boot ($21 at NAPA) and the extra labor, I opted to just buy a rebuilt one.

FWIW, the CV shaft was $99 at AutoZone + a $55 core charge.

 

Yep..replacing the boot is just more messy than just yank the shaft out and pop a new one in. But shops usually charge the same amount of labor, don't ask me why.

 

I couldn't get my right side half shaft out last night. (It's a Gen 3 if that makes any difference). I've got the steering knuckle off, and Chilton then shows it prying out of the transaxle by prying against the bearing bracket. It just won't come out! Is there anything else holding it in or do I need a bigger bar?

Thanks!!!!!

 

I assume that you found the three small bolts holding the middle bearing to the bearing bracket. There isn't anything else holding the axle in (at least on the 4th gen). You may want to try GENTLY prying between the inner CV joint and the transmission housing. Also, you may have some rust on the outside of the bearing and the inside of the bracket. Try a penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.

 

Hey guys,

Is there a write up for this?

I really need to have my half shaft changed, and any information would really be appreciated!

TIA,

 

Remove wheel.
Remove axle cotter pin.
Remove axle nut with 36mm socket.
If equipped with ABS, disconnect wiring and move sensor out of the way to prevent damage.
Remove the clip holding the rubber brake line to the strut.
Pull brake line free from strut.
For the right axle, remove the three bolts attaching the mid-axle bearing to the bearing carrier.
Remove the two bolts attaching the bottom of strut to hub.
Pivot hub/brake rotor assembly outward while tapping on the end of the axle to push the axle back out of the hub.
Once the axle is clear of the hub, pull the axle out of the transmission.
To install new axle, reverse procedure.
Torque axle nut to 174-231 ft./lbs.
Torque strut bolts to 103-117 ft./lbs.
Install a NEW axle cotter pin.
If equipped with an automatic transmission, you MUST first remove the right axle to replace the left axle. Insert a large screwdriver in the right axle hole and drive out the left axle.

That's the short version, a Haynes, Chilton or FSM can give you more detailed info. If you have the right tools, it's about 1-1/2 hours of work.

 

Does anyone know how much for sure for a half shaft cuz i am getting 2 differnt prices thanks

 

Those cheap axles from autozone use rebuilt joints...very bad. I got an axle with all new joints and accessories from www.raxles.com.


Very nice guy and decent prices.

 

My front driver side wheel and fender well is all gooped up. Is this gonna cause a meltdown if I don't get it fixed real soon? I plan on driving on it for another week.

So I need to change the CV boot, which covers the halfshaft, right???

Thanks , and isn't search great sometimes. But if no one answers this up I might have to start a new thread.

 

I didn't even need to search, I just needed to scroll down the page.

 

i posted a few days ago i had the same problem! i'm trying to just get the CV boot changed by a garage, but they are terribly busy until the middle of this coming week.

 

Thanks sinewave,
That is about the best description for changing a CV boot that I have come across.
I have saved this; others may want to also.
Rick

 

Hi, I just found out both of my boots are broken.
The local shop here offered to replace them both for $300. That includes parts and labor.
Is that a good deal?
Thanks.

 

Well, it sounds a bit high. My Audi was $75 for one. That was 3 years ago and it is a different car so I'm not sure if it is an accurate comparison or not. But I was hoping to stay around that when I get mine fixed at the same shop. I hope to get an estimate soon so I'll let you know what they charge me.

 

I was checking out the axels at autozone they were asking for ~$90 + core per axel.. my guy at the shop said he will do it for 250 with lifetime warrenty but i am think that i could do the labor cuz the parts from autozone are lifetime too if anyone know any good prices post it this would help big time for all of us

later

 

Hi Supertool,

Boots are $11. Sinewave's post is a good description of how to get the axle out, then clamp it in a big vise and give the outer CV joint a good rap with a ball peen and a piece of wood (to prevent damage to the joint). Or I have also found remanufactured axles at PepBoys for $69 exchange.

LOL-

 

i'm waiting for some free time to install my remanufactured axle. i got it at pepboys. does anyone know how to keep the alignment when i remove the two lower strut bolts? also, i need to know how big a socket i need for the axle nut. is it 36mm? i hope this "proline" remanufactured axle can take the beating from a future 13 second all motor 4 door next year! just kidding.

 

It is a 36 mm. To keep the alignment, don't loosen the 2 lower strut bolts (that secure it to the steering knuckle); rather remove the 3 bolts holding the ball joint and separate it from the steering knuckle. You will probably need to loosen the 3 bolts holding the upper strut (strut bearing) to the body so the strut can swing out past the axle.

Good luck!!!!

Rick

 

thanks for trying to help. does anyone else agree with this? it's time to consult the haynes manual now. hmmmm

 

Sorry - you have a 4th gen I have 3rd. You may not have the 3 bolts securing the ball joint assembly on yours. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Regards-
Rick

 

ok cool, but is it still a 36mm socket?

 

It is a 36mm, MardiGrasMax can confirm this since I borrowed the socket from him. The only reason I didn't recommend disconnecting the ball joint is because it is pretty easy to tear the rubber grease seal. According to the local dealer, you can't buy the grease seal or the ball joint seperately, you have to buy the lower control arm with the ball joint attached.