I'll cut to the chase....questions as follows:

1) My stereo cuts out and blows the fuse when I turn it up past a certain point. My speakers begin also begin popping just before it cuts out...though I've heard them get louder. I have a newly installed Pioneer DEH-P980BT headunit with a dedicated ground. My alternator also has a 4 awg ground wire installed on it. I'm still noticing some dimming of the headlights and the rpm's drop a bit ever time the base hits..though there's no sub. Theres an amp for the front speakers, and the rear speakers are on the factory amp. There is also a new alternator and yellow top battery installed. Why is the stereo cutting out and how do I stop it?

2) I have a crimestopper CS-2016 DP-II FM alarm system waiting for install. Should I just have it installed by an authorized installer or do it myself. I have done ALOT of wiring before, covering everything from X-Box mods to custom LED lighting and circuitry. So, the skill level is not the problem, just weather it'll be worth my time... should I just get it done? Also, any opinions of this alarm system? I can't really find any.

3) I'd like to know if there are white LED's I can put in place of the maplights? I don't know the bulb style, haven't found anything similar at autozone, and a search didn't yield much either.

4) Can I remove the drop resistor since I just put in the new 5speed?

5) As of right now since the transmission has been in, the car will start while both in gear and without the clutch engaged. Basically, the starter can move the car if it was in gear. So, how do I make it so it starts only with the clutch in and out of gear?

 

1-3) dunno
4) go for it. weight reduction ftw
5) wire your P/N switch on the old a/t harness into the BOTTOM switch on your clutch pedal, in series. when clutch is pushed, it will think it is in neutral/park so it'll let the starter run. When clutch is NOT pushed it'll assume it's in a gear, and won't run the starter. You may have to drill small holes in the firewall. Grommets or caulk/rtv should seal it back waterproof after you feed the wires through.

 

I'd run a dedicated power feed from the battery with a sufficiently sized fuse for the radio.
also check your belt and tensioner to make sure there is no slippage

 

Concerning the 5-speed...yes, you can remove the drop resistor, the clutch safety switch must be wired in from the clutch pedal (I don't know anyone who has done this), and if you followed the wiring instructions from the swap threads correctly you shouldn't be able to start the car in gear...does your cruise control work?

 

I followed the write up on my car and cruise doesn't work and I can start it in gear. The writeup has nothing to do with the clutch pedal which is what controls starting, obviously.



<------ I really need to do this over here....
~Alex

 

yeah you do....nice av by the way.

 

To those who don't have working cruise control: take a pic of your M/T wiring harness (w/ wires showing, obviously) and I will compare it to mine and let you know what you need to change...

 

i looked at it once. One way to do it should involve cutting ONE wire from under the relay box under the hood. That wire is the one that will send signal from NSS to ASCD inhibitor relay. No inhibition, nothing preventing cruise from clicking on the Hold Relay and being in standby.

once i chow down I'll look to see what wire I think it is.

 

it's on FSM page EL-112 thru 114

Go to the relay box under the hood. Unscrew it to access wires from behind. Make sure you are under the "Inhibitor relay" and snip both the Green/white wire, and the Blue/Orange one. Now you have 2 options. Either connect them together, OR run wires from those, to your clutch pedal's UPPER button switch.

that ought to do it. if you run your wires to your pedal, then cruise turns off when you hit your clutch. basically if you need to shift for whatever reason, then you are not in conditions where you should be using cruise control anyways. keep in mind the clutch pedal has 2 switches. One at the bottom so you have to fully depress the pedal to start the car... and one near the top so the cruise control disengages as soon as the clutch begins to be pressed.

 

1. Regarding the Stereo: I'm kind of confused about how your system is set up. However, here are a few things I do know. If your new Headunit is hooked up to Bose amps, this is a "no-no." You are sending a high output signal to a low input amp. Also, if you are running any aftermarket amp, then you are going to need adequate power to run it. I'm not sure how your amp is wired, but it sound like you don't have enough power to sustain voltage at higher volumes. The "popping" you describe indicates this. Without more info, hard to really tell what is going on beyond that.
2. If you have the wiring schematics for the factory alarm and you state you have the skill, I say you install it. I had no skill when I installed mine and learned along the way. Although you could argue I had the skill but not the initial knowledge. Whatever. Tap into as many stock components you can to reduce the amount of wires you have to run. You should be able to use at least the horn/headlights, starter kill, and door open signal at the stock alarm. If you have auto door lock/unlock you will have to run those wires into the friver's door, no biggie. I installed a Radio Shack LED behind the little vent on the cover beside the radio to signal the alarm is armed.
3. I'm sure they do, pull the bulbs and take them into Auto Zone or even Radio Shack may carry something. Not sure why, those bulbs last forever. I've found it's typically the plastic light covers that yellow, and not so much those bulbs if that is the issue.
4-5. Answered well.

 

well cool. you answered everything i couldn't
i know #5 didn't originally ask about the cruise control but does my fix look OK to you Chris? i still have autotragic for now so I haven't actually done the cruise rewire on my car.

 

Without looking at the wiring schematic itself, I would say that you got it covered in terms of hooking the wires up to the clutch pedal switch. Sounds about as stock an operation as I know for the manual cars. My only recommendation is to try and make sure when you cut the wires you leave enough wire to repair it if you make a mistake. Lesson learned for me!

 

well, you could cap the wires with quick disconnects and use the same for your long wires so you can just undo it and plug in the original wiring if needed. easier than using shrinkwrap in a potentially confined area. that's what I did for my TCU mod. I have switches for the solenoids but I also left the original wire intact and able to be quick-reconnected to restore original configuration.

 

I don't have the bose, but the stock system is still amplified...how do I bypass it? Anyone have wire color codes?

 

The R/N switch has 4 wires, but only 2 are used for the swap. What are those other two wires used for, and which should I use to wire into the clutch?

 

this sucks!!! but i was just trying to find the 5-speed swap thread that a bunch of us put together and now it seems that it doesn't exist. why is that? well, in that write-up i specified what wires you need to mess around with in order for your car to start without pressing down on the clutch pedal and then your cruise control will work and so will your reverse lights. if you want me to do this again then give me sometime and i will write it up again.

 

don't need to then.
the active system can be left in place and works with regular aftermarket speakers and HU

 

i have a little box behind my radio with a 5 amp glass/wire type fuse and a few capacitors/whatever......... when i turn my radio up too high, it will shut the radio off, most of the time not blowing the fuse, but if it is WAY loud when it blows, like volume being left on too high, it blows the fuse.

any idea what the little box is? it's not an inline fuse setup.....i will get pics sometime and repost if need be, i just thought maybe someone knew off hand.

 

It exists....the search function on the forum is just absolute CRAP. A few days ago I was looking for a thread that I had seen the day before and couldn't find it. It was on like page 24 of the forums, but I couldn't remember at the time. I remembered the title and tried to search it, but found nothing. A careful scan of the forum again and I found it. I put the thread up in a different window and tried to search the EXACT thread title, and it came up with nothing....whaddafuxup with that??

 

This one?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=293320

 

yes...more specifically this:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/3

 

Ok this link is now stickied again..(original link was lost during the server incident)

 

sounds like a line converter to me.
it may be designed to match your H/Us output to the factory amps inputs

 

actually, i wasn't referring to this one. it was another thread started by Daniel but then i took over and finished up the write-up on how to do the complete re-wire to make the reverse lights, cruise control and starting the car. i had pics of all that and long posts specifying on how to do it.

 

Who is Daniel?(screename)

 

Phatsta from Sweden.

 

Phatsta posted his cardomain link in that thread..

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...6&postcount=26

 

yeah, i know but i took over another thread that was being done by him i guess and then i finished it up for others to have their cruise control and reverse lights to work again.