looking for near OEM ride quality
looking for near OEM ride quality
time for the suspension overhaul when taxes come in. I don't want much more than a 1" drop all the way around and as close to OEM ride quality as I can get. I don't mind it being a bit firmer in the twisties, but I have a 45 mile commute each way to work. So far I am thinking the tokico HP strut/spring combo would get me closest to what I want with very minimal drop.
any other suggestions (around $500 total)
keep in mind commuter car!
any other suggestions (around $500 total)
keep in mind commuter car!
This thread might be of some help:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=359419
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=359419

$500.00 is enough to buy a nice bicycle with oem suspension.
You'll also have some left over money to buy an electric motor.
Looks so good maybe I'll buy one.
Order Now Click Here
FRONTSUSPENSION
27 Speed SHIMANO XT
ROCKSHOX
DISC BRAKES
TRUVATIV CRANKSET
WTB SEAT + WTB TIRES
+ DISC BRAKES
+ ADVANCED FRAME
+ 100MM FORK
Limited quantities at special factory direct prices. Save OVER 50% off MSRP. Brand new trail-tested '07-08 MTB
ORDER NOW
FREE SHIP TO THE 48
Only $439.95
Order Now Click Here
LIST $995
More Incredible
Mountain Bike Deals! Click Here
LCA busings will be done also
Now heres a big question I'm not sure many people have looked in to. Are there frame mounted bushings on the power steering rack?? I've noticed a lot of people complaining of shuttering/shaking that is not attributed to out-of-balance tires or other suspension components.
I get a lot of feedback through the steering column so I suspect that the entire rack is shifting under stress
anyone looked into this?
yeah, there's rubber bushings there. the 3rd gen guys are seeing them go out more often now, but it's sitll fairly rare. wouldn't hurt to replace them though.. but you'd better be a glutton for punishment. it's a ROYAL PITA to get the steering rack off the firewall to replace the bushings. I've done it a few times on 3 gens and I'd rather take a kick in the nutz from Donkey than do that again.
if you're doing springs and struts, i'd recommend the H&R springs and KYB GR-2 struts.. or just leave the stock springs on it. without knowing what year/model your car is, I can't comment much more than that. if you've got a GXE/GLE, you might want to just put on a set of SE springs. they're a bit stiffer but don't lower the car much. will give you a bit better handling, but keep the ride quality.
if you're doing springs and struts, i'd recommend the H&R springs and KYB GR-2 struts.. or just leave the stock springs on it. without knowing what year/model your car is, I can't comment much more than that. if you've got a GXE/GLE, you might want to just put on a set of SE springs. they're a bit stiffer but don't lower the car much. will give you a bit better handling, but keep the ride quality.
yeah, there's rubber bushings there. the 3rd gen guys are seeing them go out more often now, but it's sitll fairly rare. wouldn't hurt to replace them though.. but you'd better be a glutton for punishment. it's a ROYAL PITA to get the steering rack off the firewall to replace the bushings. I've done it a few times on 3 gens and I'd rather take a kick in the nutz from Donkey than do that again.
if you're doing springs and struts, i'd recommend the H&R springs and KYB GR-2 struts.. or just leave the stock springs on it. without knowing what year/model your car is, I can't comment much more than that. if you've got a GXE/GLE, you might want to just put on a set of SE springs. they're a bit stiffer but don't lower the car much. will give you a bit better handling, but keep the ride quality.
if you're doing springs and struts, i'd recommend the H&R springs and KYB GR-2 struts.. or just leave the stock springs on it. without knowing what year/model your car is, I can't comment much more than that. if you've got a GXE/GLE, you might want to just put on a set of SE springs. they're a bit stiffer but don't lower the car much. will give you a bit better handling, but keep the ride quality.
time for the suspension overhaul when taxes come in. I don't want much more than a 1" drop all the way around and as close to OEM ride quality as I can get. I don't mind it being a bit firmer in the twisties, but I have a 45 mile commute each way to work. So far I am thinking the tokico HP strut/spring combo would get me closest to what I want with very minimal drop.
any other suggestions (around $500 total)
keep in mind commuter car!
any other suggestions (around $500 total)
keep in mind commuter car!
But if I were you, I'd get Koni dampers and forget the springs. If you only have $500-ish and are concerned about ride quality on your 45 mile commute (I don't blame you), it's best to put all your money into some top-notch dampers instead of splitting it and ending up with okay dampers and okay springs.
the car is a 97 i30t, but I am concerned that the springs are very worn out. I have some slightly uneven ride height.
I also think the ride is very sloppy in the corners, and thats why I was leaning toward the HP combo.
as for the steering rack, I am going to try putting some pressure on it and see if there is any movement.
I also think the ride is very sloppy in the corners, and thats why I was leaning toward the HP combo.
as for the steering rack, I am going to try putting some pressure on it and see if there is any movement.
Outer tie rod ends are simple if you have an impact gun. You just have to count the threads so you can put the new one on approximately where the last one was. If you don't have an impact gun, though, don't try it.
Inner tie rod ends are a little more complicated, mostly because you need a special tool and there isn't a lot of space to work. Most auto parts stores can rent you the tool, though, so it's doable.
Either way, you'll need to take it in for an alignment when you're done, so it might be worth paying a little extra to have the shop do the install as well.
Inner tie rod ends are a little more complicated, mostly because you need a special tool and there isn't a lot of space to work. Most auto parts stores can rent you the tool, though, so it's doable.
Either way, you'll need to take it in for an alignment when you're done, so it might be worth paying a little extra to have the shop do the install as well.
1. you need to specify what year maxima you have.
2. then you need to check the stickies in the generation section that applies (5th generation suspension sticky is very informative)
3. moving to general discussion...
2. then you need to check the stickies in the generation section that applies (5th generation suspension sticky is very informative)
3. moving to general discussion...
2. did, but nothing specific to the 4th gens/i30 that was relevant
3. ok thanks

$500.00 is enough to buy a nice bicycle with oem suspension.
You'll also have some left over money to buy an electric motor.
Looks so good maybe I'll buy one.
Order Now Click Here
FRONTSUSPENSION
27 Speed SHIMANO XT
ROCKSHOX
DISC BRAKES
TRUVATIV CRANKSET
WTB SEAT + WTB TIRES
+ DISC BRAKES
+ ADVANCED FRAME
+ 100MM FORK
Limited quantities at special factory direct prices. Save OVER 50% off MSRP. Brand new trail-tested '07-08 MTB
ORDER NOW
FREE SHIP TO THE 48
Only $439.95
Order Now Click Here
LIST $995
More Incredible
Mountain Bike Deals! Click Here
LOL
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