BOSE SPEAKERS WORK WITH AFTERMARKET RADIO!!! I THOUGHT IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE
BOSE SPEAKERS WORK WITH AFTERMARKET RADIO!!! I THOUGHT IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE
so i changed my stock bose cd/tape player to an aftermarket pioneer and to my amazement, the speakers function. i thought this was impossible???
no signal converter nothing at all done. the car has been in the family since 92, about a year ago i took the original tape player out and added the double din unit from a 95 maxima. I cut the pigtails off the 95 car to connect to the back of the stereo. I then bought a stereo wiring kit for a 93 maxima and soldered that to the corresponding wires on the 95 pigtail. (this was done in an attempt to keep my stock wiring in the vehicle and for easy disconnect) anyways...this weekend i had an aftermarket pioneer headunit i took from my old car, i got a radio intall kit for the 93 maxima and soldered the ends onto the pioneer harness and hooked it up just out of curiosity and the sound played thru on the speakers. not only that but the sound is ALOT better than with the factory bose unit. WTF is going on??? I thought this was impossible???
I PURCHASED A PIONEER HEADUNIT A YEAR AGO AND PUT IT IN MY PREVIOUS CAR. SOLD THE CAR AND KEPT THE HEADUNIT IN STORAGE.
ABOUT A WEEK AGO I PURCHASED AND IN DASH DOUBLE DIN MONITOR, 6.5" COMPONENT SPEAKERS AND 6x9" REAR SPEAKERS. I DID THIS SO THAT I COULD REPLACE THE BOSE STEREO SYSTEM WITH AFTERMARKET COMPONENTS.
THIS WEEKEND, I JUST WANTED TO SEE IF THE PIONEER UNIT WOULD WORK IN MY BOSE EQUIPED 93 MAXIMA SO I INSTALLED THE UNIT ALONE OUT OF CURIOSITY AND TO MY SURPRISE...IT POWERED THE BOSE SPEAKERS AND WORKED WITH THEM....I THOUGHT TO USE AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT WITH THE BOSE SPEAKERS YOU NEEDED AN ADAPTER THAT CHANGED THE SIGNAL FOR THE BOSE AMPLIFIERS. I HAVE USED NO SUCH ADAPTER.
ARE YOU GUYS SAYING THAT AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT WILL JUST PLUG IN AND PRODUCE SOUND FROM THE BOSE SPEAKERS??? CUZ THATS ALL THAT I DID WAS PLUG IN AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT.
ABOUT A WEEK AGO I PURCHASED AND IN DASH DOUBLE DIN MONITOR, 6.5" COMPONENT SPEAKERS AND 6x9" REAR SPEAKERS. I DID THIS SO THAT I COULD REPLACE THE BOSE STEREO SYSTEM WITH AFTERMARKET COMPONENTS.
THIS WEEKEND, I JUST WANTED TO SEE IF THE PIONEER UNIT WOULD WORK IN MY BOSE EQUIPED 93 MAXIMA SO I INSTALLED THE UNIT ALONE OUT OF CURIOSITY AND TO MY SURPRISE...IT POWERED THE BOSE SPEAKERS AND WORKED WITH THEM....I THOUGHT TO USE AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT WITH THE BOSE SPEAKERS YOU NEEDED AN ADAPTER THAT CHANGED THE SIGNAL FOR THE BOSE AMPLIFIERS. I HAVE USED NO SUCH ADAPTER.
ARE YOU GUYS SAYING THAT AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT WILL JUST PLUG IN AND PRODUCE SOUND FROM THE BOSE SPEAKERS??? CUZ THATS ALL THAT I DID WAS PLUG IN AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT.
ok yeah, if you hook it up with the amp channels from your HU of course the speakers are going to work. from what i have gathered from what you have said, if the bose speakers have amps at each speaker, all thats happening is the amps are getting a signal, hence your speakers working. you dont need an adapter but it will sound like ****. if there are no amps at the bose speakers and your HU is supplying power to your speakers, say good bye to the hu's internal amp, the 1 ohm impedence of the speaker will fry out your HU due to the increase load.
so if you are done ranting and what not, i suggest you read some of the recent threads to get an idea of how and why you came to the conclusion you did
not to sound like an ***....
so if you are done ranting and what not, i suggest you read some of the recent threads to get an idea of how and why you came to the conclusion you did

not to sound like an ***....
ok yeah, if you hook it up with the amp channels from your HU of course the speakers are going to work. from what i have gathered from what you have said, if the bose speakers have amps at each speaker, all thats happening is the amps are getting a signal, hence your speakers working. you dont need an adapter but it will sound like ****. if there are no amps at the bose speakers and your HU is supplying power to your speakers, say good bye to the hu's internal amp, the 1 ohm impedence of the speaker will fry out your HU due to the increase load.
so if you are done ranting and what not, i suggest you read some of the recent threads to get an idea of how and why you came to the conclusion you did
not to sound like an ***....
so if you are done ranting and what not, i suggest you read some of the recent threads to get an idea of how and why you came to the conclusion you did

not to sound like an ***....
If what your saying is that you used a standard harness and connected it direct using the high level outputs, then yes it will work, but longevity will be limited as your OEM amp and the HUs internal amp are eventually going to be toast.
What's up. Hooking it up this way will not sound like $#!t as someone stated before. The setup will work but as stated longevity in that format may eventually be an issue. At really really high volumes you may start getting sound cut outs in the music (due to the amps cutting off). They will cut back on in bout a second or two but will keep going in and out until the volume is lowered.
What you could do that will save lots of rewiring and time is to line level convert your speaker wires coming outta the CD player and then hook up those wires to the existing wires in the stock car harness. Now you have an awesome setup that will perform great with minmal work.
What you could do that will save lots of rewiring and time is to line level convert your speaker wires coming outta the CD player and then hook up those wires to the existing wires in the stock car harness. Now you have an awesome setup that will perform great with minmal work.
What's up. Hooking it up this way will not sound like $#!t as someone stated before. The setup will work but as stated longevity in that format may eventually be an issue. At really really high volumes you may start getting sound cut outs in the music (due to the amps cutting off). They will cut back on in bout a second or two but will keep going in and out until the volume is lowered.
What you could do that will save lots of rewiring and time is to line level convert your speaker wires coming outta the CD player and then hook up those wires to the existing wires in the stock car harness. Now you have an awesome setup that will perform great with minmal work.
What you could do that will save lots of rewiring and time is to line level convert your speaker wires coming outta the CD player and then hook up those wires to the existing wires in the stock car harness. Now you have an awesome setup that will perform great with minmal work.

The metra is essentially a line level converter, it takes the low level outputs of an aftermarket head unit and uses that signal to the bose amps....
Dude, maybe i should be more clear for the better understanding of some people.
You don't need that harness. You can line level convert the actual speaker wires (from the headunit) yourself without having to buy the metra. This way is by far a cheaper and easier alternative than buying the metra.
Dude, maybe i should be more clear for the better understanding of some people.
You don't need that harness. You can line level convert the actual speaker wires (from the headunit) yourself without having to buy the metra. This way is by far a cheaper and easier alternative than buying the metra.
You don't need that harness. You can line level convert the actual speaker wires (from the headunit) yourself without having to buy the metra. This way is by far a cheaper and easier alternative than buying the metra.hes got a point....i dont need to do that. I have all new hardware going into the car and dont need the bose speakers/ amps. thanks though
Dude, maybe i should be more clear for the better understanding of some people.
You don't need that harness. You can line level convert the actual speaker wires (from the headunit) yourself without having to buy the metra. This way is by far a cheaper and easier alternative than buying the metra.
You don't need that harness. You can line level convert the actual speaker wires (from the headunit) yourself without having to buy the metra. This way is by far a cheaper and easier alternative than buying the metra.
Yeah, i guess by nature thats always been the way i approach things. LOL It would prob take me longer to unpackage the metra and get it ready to put in, than it would for me to start soldering and putting together circuits. I guess it's easier this way for me b/c its more fun to me.
Yes, it will work..
BUT
have any of you actually taken out ya BOSE speakers and look at them and see what they are made off?
i mean seriously. they are old, dusty, the material that they use to put the speaker together actually deteriorates, plus the speaker itself is made of a cardboard paper like material.
off the no bull.
do some research, put ur HU in, Take ur doors and backseats out and splice the wires BEFORE the amp, get some additional speaker wires and connect the wire together and connect them to your speakers.
a little more work, but not hard. i have to still do my doors, but the backseat is easy people.
trust me.. change them darn speakers.
BUT
have any of you actually taken out ya BOSE speakers and look at them and see what they are made off?
i mean seriously. they are old, dusty, the material that they use to put the speaker together actually deteriorates, plus the speaker itself is made of a cardboard paper like material.
off the no bull.
do some research, put ur HU in, Take ur doors and backseats out and splice the wires BEFORE the amp, get some additional speaker wires and connect the wire together and connect them to your speakers.
a little more work, but not hard. i have to still do my doors, but the backseat is easy people.
trust me.. change them darn speakers.
Hope this is a clearer version of what im saying.
ok lets clear some things up
For all intensive purposes, getting the 70-7551 is just as easy to install as the 70-7550 except you have to connect 8 more wires, cry cry, tear tear, not that bad, you are already splicing a bunch as is, its not hard.
the 70-7551 benefits you because the signal quality is a thousand times better because you are using a low level signal and thats what the bose amps want as do pretty much all amps to reproduce a good quality sound.
the 70-7550 will work, but uses a high level signal which has not been cleaned and refined as low level rca signals are. The sound produced via this method is staticy, not like white noise static, but there is a clear distinction between high and low level signal quality. When using this harness it is best to get a pac converter to clean up the signal and reduce it to a low level signal which will be clear to the BOSE amps. At this point, its the equivalent of using RCA's
Now for pros/cons
70-7551 has a high potential for ground loop/alternator whine issues. Many professional installers have had issues with this and op for the 70-7550 instead. Personally, mine presents alternator whine due to a ground loop and popping betwen tracks, sources types and on/off. the popping i am attributing to the bose amps being old, my subs do not pop that i can hear so i am assuming thats the issue.
the 70-7550 didnt prresent a ground loop or alt whine issue to me, but i have no idea if it would produce that problem after a line in converter, who knows, i am not going to spend the 60 bux to find out, **** it, i would rather spend 400 on new speakers and an external amp.
For all intensive purposes, getting the 70-7551 is just as easy to install as the 70-7550 except you have to connect 8 more wires, cry cry, tear tear, not that bad, you are already splicing a bunch as is, its not hard.
the 70-7551 benefits you because the signal quality is a thousand times better because you are using a low level signal and thats what the bose amps want as do pretty much all amps to reproduce a good quality sound.
the 70-7550 will work, but uses a high level signal which has not been cleaned and refined as low level rca signals are. The sound produced via this method is staticy, not like white noise static, but there is a clear distinction between high and low level signal quality. When using this harness it is best to get a pac converter to clean up the signal and reduce it to a low level signal which will be clear to the BOSE amps. At this point, its the equivalent of using RCA's
Now for pros/cons
70-7551 has a high potential for ground loop/alternator whine issues. Many professional installers have had issues with this and op for the 70-7550 instead. Personally, mine presents alternator whine due to a ground loop and popping betwen tracks, sources types and on/off. the popping i am attributing to the bose amps being old, my subs do not pop that i can hear so i am assuming thats the issue.
the 70-7550 didnt prresent a ground loop or alt whine issue to me, but i have no idea if it would produce that problem after a line in converter, who knows, i am not going to spend the 60 bux to find out, **** it, i would rather spend 400 on new speakers and an external amp.
Please explain how the 7551 differs from the 7550 with RCA pigtails. They are nothing short of exactly the same. To say one is better than the other is snake oil ..
if you place an inline converter on the 7550 the sound quality should be the same as the 7551, without the inline converter the 7550 will sound like ****. difference between the two is money, 7551 u dont need an inline converter and 7550 you do need an inline converter (good ones being betwen 40 and 70) so harness plus converter, you can do the math.
if you dont believe me when i say there is a clear difference betwen sound that the harnesses produce without a converter on the 7550, spend the 24 bux for both harnesses and go test them and i garuntee you will come back onto the boards and admit the sound clarity sux in comparison to the 7551
if you dont believe me when i say there is a clear difference betwen sound that the harnesses produce without a converter on the 7550, spend the 24 bux for both harnesses and go test them and i garuntee you will come back onto the boards and admit the sound clarity sux in comparison to the 7551
if you place an inline converter on the 7550 the sound quality should be the same as the 7551, without the inline converter the 7550 will sound like ****. difference between the two is money, 7551 u dont need an inline converter and 7550 you do need an inline converter (good ones being betwen 40 and 70) so harness plus converter, you can do the math.
if you dont believe me when i say there is a clear difference betwen sound that the harnesses produce without a converter on the 7550, spend the 24 bux for both harnesses and go test them and i garuntee you will come back onto the boards and admit the sound clarity sux in comparison to the 7551
if you dont believe me when i say there is a clear difference betwen sound that the harnesses produce without a converter on the 7550, spend the 24 bux for both harnesses and go test them and i garuntee you will come back onto the boards and admit the sound clarity sux in comparison to the 7551

Your seriously kidding right? A 7550 with RCA pigtails is EXACTLY what a 7551 is. Theres still no need for any type of 'convertor'. They are one in the same.
Try it? Do you know what I do for a living? Do you have a remote clue of how many Maximas I have done? Sorry bud, been there and done that. Your statements guarantee nothing more than you really do not have a clue of what these two pieces are.
SO now what do I get for Not coming back and saying you were right? After all you Did put a guarantee on it didnt you?
are you talking about a custom 7550 with pigtails? if so, yes they are the same and i misunderstood your statement. I just tried this the other night and yes it does work, i am sorry for the confusion otherwise.
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