TPS corroded harness...rewire and solder?
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TPS corroded harness...rewire and solder?
My TPS harness is cracked and corroded. wires are completely green inside. Im guessing some of that green crap runs through some of the wire too. I was thinking of cuting some the wire off, adding some, and soldering the wire directly to the TPS. I don't think you can replace the connector unless you get a complete wire harness or cut one at a junk yard, good chance that one is corroded anyways. Anyone else have a connectors like this, and what did you do to fix it? I sprayed electrical parts cleaner on the connector. When I test it, with meter, it seems to be up to par, but Im guessing it could also cause intermitent problems? Thanks everyone in advance. Its a VE autotragic
still eats hondas 
and ****s out geo's
still eats hondas and ****s out geo's
The corrosion doesn't run through the wiring harness, it's usually concentrated at the plug connector..
Grab a can if CRC electrical parts cleaner spray and a small set of wire brushes at your local parts store..Spray the connector and the sensor prongs, then use the brush on both/spray again.Some dielectric grease will prevent the corrosion from returning.
Edit: just seen it was cracked also...Cut/spice in a j-yard connector is the only way to fix it.
Grab a can if CRC electrical parts cleaner spray and a small set of wire brushes at your local parts store..Spray the connector and the sensor prongs, then use the brush on both/spray again.Some dielectric grease will prevent the corrosion from returning.
Edit: just seen it was cracked also...Cut/spice in a j-yard connector is the only way to fix it.
Last edited by Greeny; Mar 7, 2008 at 05:19 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 488
The corrosion doesn't run through the wiring harness, it's usually concentrated at the plug connector..
Grab a can if CRC electrical parts cleaner spray and a small set of wire brushes at your local parts store..Spray the connector and the sensor prongs, then use the brush on both/spray again.Some dielectric grease will prevent the corrosion from returning.
Edit: just seen it was cracked also...Cut/spice in a j-yard connector is the only way to fix it.
Grab a can if CRC electrical parts cleaner spray and a small set of wire brushes at your local parts store..Spray the connector and the sensor prongs, then use the brush on both/spray again.Some dielectric grease will prevent the corrosion from returning.
Edit: just seen it was cracked also...Cut/spice in a j-yard connector is the only way to fix it.
VE, VG different TPS? or if I find a nice connector for a vg tps, are they interchangable?
thanks greeny, you've helped me out alot
I'm new but lots of questions. thanks to everyone who has helped me.Im guessing cut in splice for the VTC connectors too than? right now I had cut off the connectors to those, and got a small female connector that slides on the connector on vtc solenoid. electrical taped so no air/water/debris/etc can get into them. seems to work fine, I definately feel the pull 3.4k+
Last edited by maximaman1313; Mar 7, 2008 at 05:37 PM.
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Originally Posted by maximaman
VE, VG different TPS? or if I find a nice connector for a vg tps, are they interchangable?
thanks greeny, you've helped me out alot I'm new but lots of questions. thanks to everyone who has helped me.
Im guessing cut in splice for the VTC connectors too than? right now I had cut off the connectors to those, and got a small female connector that slides on the connector on vtc solenoid. electrical taped so no air/water/debris/etc can get into them. seems to work fine, I definately feel the pull 3.4k+
thanks greeny, you've helped me out alot
I'm new but lots of questions. thanks to everyone who has helped me.Im guessing cut in splice for the VTC connectors too than? right now I had cut off the connectors to those, and got a small female connector that slides on the connector on vtc solenoid. electrical taped so no air/water/debris/etc can get into them. seems to work fine, I definately feel the pull 3.4k+
Their is no point in replacing the tps if it's not broken, just cut the tps plug off any 3rd gen maxima(yes the connector is the same for both ve/vg)..You can even use the various plugs from a 90's model stanza/sentra for a tps/vtc solenoid plug replacments if you can find one the j-yard,( the tps plug may not be the same on either, but both stanza/sentra have several sensor plugs to various sensor that are identical to the 3rd gen plugs.
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I said replacing the TPS connector, not the TPS. I was just wondering if the VG and VE had the same TPS because then I know a VG that might have the TPS connector I can go get. I will be out soon to the junkyard then for search of non cracked connectors.
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Last edited by Greeny; Mar 7, 2008 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Hi lawrence :-)
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link didnt work for me
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ya i figured it out, looked at link and noticed at first you include a set of quote marks at end.. I just read that entire thing. I didn't see anywhere that you talked about the TPS connectors. Just the IACV. did I miss something?
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There you go verbatim
On the rough idle thing:
I have experienced rough idles too - but on VGs only, and managed to solve the issue with paint of all things
I have on my own vehicle found intermittent rough idles to be caused by the TPS, and since I stay in this armpit of the earth where nothing seems to be available at a decent price, I decided to apply personal engineering to the item.
On stripping the TPS and looking at the socket with the 3 prongs coming from the wiper assembly I noticed something really weird:
(Magnifying headset with built-in illumination required for this) The "contacts" are actually made up of a metal "pin" part that serves to carry a conductive "membrane" that is deposited on the pins and THAT membrane is in contact with the resistive wiper inside the TPs body - in my case I found that "membrane" to have become brittle and it was separating/pealing away from the pins - in such a way that the plug/socket simply could no longer make decent and reliable contact.
So what I did about it:
I cut the plastic socket wall away with a micro grinder, soldered 3 wires directly to the TPS pins' tips (quickly so you don't further damage that membrane) and then after cleaning the whole pin assembly, I used conductive paint to "make" new membranes from the front of the pins where the soldering is right to the back of the pins where the original "membrane" seems to be in much better condition. Allowed it to dry overnight, and then filled the whole of the socket with silicon sealer (suitable for cars).
3 spade terminal sets later on the those wires (to replace the original plug/socket) , and I have had a solid idle ever since ..................... and as a result a few of my VG friends as a result too.
I have experienced rough idles too - but on VGs only, and managed to solve the issue with paint of all things
I have on my own vehicle found intermittent rough idles to be caused by the TPS, and since I stay in this armpit of the earth where nothing seems to be available at a decent price, I decided to apply personal engineering to the item.
On stripping the TPS and looking at the socket with the 3 prongs coming from the wiper assembly I noticed something really weird:
(Magnifying headset with built-in illumination required for this
) The "contacts" are actually made up of a metal "pin" part that serves to carry a conductive "membrane" that is deposited on the pins and THAT membrane is in contact with the resistive wiper inside the TPs body - in my case I found that "membrane" to have become brittle and it was separating/pealing away from the pins - in such a way that the plug/socket simply could no longer make decent and reliable contact.So what I did about it:
I cut the plastic socket wall away with a micro grinder, soldered 3 wires directly to the TPS pins' tips (quickly so you don't further damage that membrane) and then after cleaning the whole pin assembly, I used conductive paint to "make" new membranes from the front of the pins where the soldering is right to the back of the pins where the original "membrane" seems to be in much better condition. Allowed it to dry overnight, and then filled the whole of the socket with silicon sealer (suitable for cars).
3 spade terminal sets later on the those wires (to replace the original plug/socket) , and I have had a solid idle ever since ..................... and as a result a few of my VG friends as a result too.
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From: EU Scandinavia
Here [the] wire is .............
[the] zero pos wire
-OR- [the] potentiometer wire
-OR- [the-m] both?
As LVR states, both [the] wires may be directly be soldered... here some pics how [the] problem cracks open an u gain access to the potentiometer attachment pins on the pcb: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/6
Wiring may become/grow oxidized at 'any' length, rip out far beyond the rotten part to ensure the rot not going to renew. Use self vulcanizing rubber tape.
[the] zero pos wire
-OR- [the] potentiometer wire
-OR- [the-m] both?
As LVR states, both [the] wires may be directly be soldered... here some pics how [the] problem cracks open an u gain access to the potentiometer attachment pins on the pcb: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/6
Wiring may become/grow oxidized at 'any' length, rip out far beyond the rotten part to ensure the rot not going to renew. Use self vulcanizing rubber tape.
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