should I force the camber to be the same?
should I force the camber to be the same?
firestone lifetime alignments are good.......but.....
when I went this last time, here's what I got

So, the question is....do I go out and get some camber bolts or something to at least force them to match?
My left front is starting to cord on the inside since the wife curbed it and I ignored it for a while....but I know they do the camber when it's still in the air.
Should I care?
if you can't make out the pics, the camber is -1.4 L and -0.7 R
when I went this last time, here's what I got

So, the question is....do I go out and get some camber bolts or something to at least force them to match?
My left front is starting to cord on the inside since the wife curbed it and I ignored it for a while....but I know they do the camber when it's still in the air.
Should I care?
if you can't make out the pics, the camber is -1.4 L and -0.7 R
Yes.
Camber is important, your car can develop a pull if it's too uneven.
The alignment dude should at least be able to get them within a few tenths of each other.
Plus you can run a little moar for mad tyte handlings, I try to keep it around -2 degrees. I get camber wear but it is not too bad if you drive like a madman.
Also, they don't measure the camber when it's in the air... that would be retarded.
I'm not completely sure what you mean by that.
Camber is important, your car can develop a pull if it's too uneven.
The alignment dude should at least be able to get them within a few tenths of each other.
Plus you can run a little moar for mad tyte handlings, I try to keep it around -2 degrees. I get camber wear but it is not too bad if you drive like a madman.
Also, they don't measure the camber when it's in the air... that would be retarded.
I'm not completely sure what you mean by that.
Yes.
Camber is important, your car can develop a pull if it's too uneven.
The alignment dude should at least be able to get them within a few tenths of each other.
Plus you can run a little moar for mad tyte handlings, I try to keep it around -2 degrees. I get camber wear but it is not too bad if you drive like a madman.
Also, they don't measure the camber when it's in the air... that would be retarded.
I'm not completely sure what you mean by that.
Camber is important, your car can develop a pull if it's too uneven.
The alignment dude should at least be able to get them within a few tenths of each other.
Plus you can run a little moar for mad tyte handlings, I try to keep it around -2 degrees. I get camber wear but it is not too bad if you drive like a madman.
Also, they don't measure the camber when it's in the air... that would be retarded.
I'm not completely sure what you mean by that.
perhaps with the low offset 19s i may need them
and bend the rear beam 
97SEdriver: take it back and have them re-adjust it to the specs you need. btw alignments are done with the car sitting on all four wheels on the ground with suspension under normal load. gotta be on crack for the suspension to be hanging and do an alignment like that...
firestone lifetime alignments are good.......but.....
when I went this last time, here's what I got

So, the question is....do I go out and get some camber bolts or something to at least force them to match?
My left front is starting to cord on the inside since the wife curbed it and I ignored it for a while....but I know they do the camber when it's still in the air.
Should I care?
if you can't make out the pics, the camber is -1.4 L and -0.7 R
when I went this last time, here's what I got

So, the question is....do I go out and get some camber bolts or something to at least force them to match?
My left front is starting to cord on the inside since the wife curbed it and I ignored it for a while....but I know they do the camber when it's still in the air.
Should I care?
if you can't make out the pics, the camber is -1.4 L and -0.7 R
heres the factory specs:
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Camber, in degrees.
-1.00 Minimum
-0.25 Nominal
+0.50 Maximum
+0.75 Maximum left and right difference
Caster, in degrees
+2.00 Minimum
+2.75 Nominal
+3.50 Maximum
+0.75 Maximum left and right difference
Kingpin inclination, in degrees
+13.50 Minimum
+14.25 Nominal
+15.00 Maximum
Total toe-in distance, in millimeters
+1 Minimum
+2 Nominal
+3 Maximum
Total toe-in angle (left plus right), in degrees
+0.09 Minimum
+0.18 Nominal
+0.27 Maximum
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Camber, in degrees
-1.75 Minimum
-1.00 Nominal
-0.25 Maximum
Total toe-in distance, in millimeters
-3 Minimum
+1 Nominal
+5 Maximum
Total toe-in angle (left plus right), in degrees
-0.27 Minimum
+0.09 Nominal
+0.43 Maximum
camber is the most important. also if your pulling slightly in either direction, its b/c of the camber. is your suspension stock or aftermarket? if aftermarket and have elongated struts holes, just tell the mechanic to mess around w/ that for more camber adjustment.
i actually need to get another alignment really really bad. outer front tires are worn like hell and the car pulls to the left. i am running a lot of neg camber, for auto-x and that "mad tyte handlings"
how much is it for the lifetime aligntment?

how much is it for the lifetime aligntment?
I think when I did it...it was around $150, but since then I've done it 4-5 times at least.....
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