93 VE5. I recently reinstalled my tranny with a new Nissan clutch kit (PP,TBearing Clutch). It has a Fidanza flywheel and the disc was replaced (equivalent of resurfacing).

The tranny was inspected prior to installation for any defective components and it's in perfect condition.(Bearings synchros etc).I use Amsoil gearoil.

The tranny shifts smoothly thru all the gears, no grinding or anything else. However, when the clutch is disengaged there's a whirrring noise coming from the tranny which stops upon engagement.

I removed the starter and it SEEMS as if something is rubbing against the outer part of the pressure plate just inside of the pressure plate bolts. I base this because of the slight indentation marks on the pressure plate. I also removed the rubber on the fork where the throwout bearing is located and it seems to be intact.

Any "light" on this issue would be much appreciated.

Thx

 

just because a bearing seems intact doesn't mean it is tho... my a/c idler pulley bearing was shot, but just looking at it, you'd never know. swapped in the one from my parts car, stuffed some grease in there, and it's smooth as butter.

TOB sounds like the only thing it can be, hard to take as that may be. that's the only thing that will grind when the clutch is depressed, unless you have a badly marred clutch disc that has stuff sticking out from the surface that is dragging against the flywheel or PP facings when the clutch is disengaged.

 

Awright thanks. Right now the car is more or less parked because it needs injectors (the problems never end). After thats rectified I'll have a mechanic inspect it. I was wondering if adjusting the clutch would make a difference. Also forgot to mention that the clutch kit is for a 4/5th gen. dunno if that is contributing to the problem.

Thanks again

 

clutch is the same for 2nd-4th gen 5th gen changes, but is compatible.

 

If the noise is only when you push the clutch in, your TOB is probably bad. Might have installed it backwards or something.

~Alex

 

You like to Scam say what?

 

dood... we know about it....

 

Sry to highjack thread, but My Clutch is starting to slip and i'm going to get it replaced with an EXEDY clutch kit. My engine always has oil underneath, but does really leak (more burns) oil. I wanted to get the seals replaced but which ones would be accessible while the clutch is being replaced. The hanes manual says to replace "Driveaxle Oil Seals" , "Speedometer Cable O-ring" and "Front Oil Seal". Is this correct? What about rear main seal? Any info would be useful concerning clutches oil leaks or anything. Thanks.

 

good luck finding a speedometer cable o-ring. the haynes manual has NO GOOD INFO specific to 3rd gens. 2nd gens have speedo cables. 3rd gen and newer use electronic speed sensors with no need to even remove the sensor unless it goes bad. there's a site about fat luxurious Sentras (har har) that has an FSM you can find that isn't specific to a 90 (it's a 94... so all info will be about the VE if it's a manual b/c there was no VG manual past 91) but it'll do just fine.

cam and front oil seals are on the belt side. rear main oil seal and driveaxle oil seals are what you need to focus on when the flywheel is off and tranny is out. may as well do the striking rod oil seal while the tranny is dry, and if there's any cracks in the release fork dustboot, get a new one of them too.

 

the G20 is not a sentra, their only relationship is they used the same motor

 

yes, well, it's a nice little roundabout way of telliing people where the FSM is without actually saying it. IMO a 2.0L FWD compact nissan sedan w/ dead rear axle is Sentra-esque, if not truly a sentra. Even if it's got a notched oval on the grille.

which is why we all have maximas. well. all of us but you. but i know you're happy with your awd so we'll just let that be.

another question related to OP: is it possible for a TOB to be totally shot even if it's not making any noise at all?

 

my brother has a G20. and we had a sentra, they are 2 very different animals, and peoples equation of the g20 with the sentra is what killed an excellent car.

 

well i always knew it LOOKED way better than sentras. i guess i just never knew a whole lot about them. critics (that i've read from) didn't like them too much tho.

neways what about the silent TOB thing?

 

is T O B he or she?

 

i believe there was some surgery involved so i can't say for sure

 

Didnt get it TOB yet ... must figure out myself: She would be noisy (?) ... still dont get it TOB.

 

K, I got my clutch installed last week with the rear main and drive axle seals but I still have a problem. The clutch doesn't slip or anything and feels alot stronger than before but... When I engage the clutch roughly (like downshifting) or quickly or when I step on the pedal (2nd gear 25mph and step on it), the car makes a serious of clattering sounds. It goes usually 1, 2 or 3 times like something is bouncing. clat clat clat. It sounds like its coming from inside the clutch housing like the pressure plate or something. Some has mentioned motor mounts (motor does not rock at all) or transmissions mounts (maybe). CV joints? I replace the slave cylinder as well. Any ideas? Thanks, Nick.

 

did you get the flywheel resurfaced before you installed the clutch?

 

Read much?

 

yup, and apparently better than you.
my reply was to the post directly above mine which is not by brudda bob.

 

No, The mechanic said it did not need it. The sound is sorta like a thump thump thump like a spring that shakes the car so it feels like somethings bouncing.

 

I would seriously want to take it apart again, I have a feeling there are "hard" spots on the flywheel causing the issue.

 

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...%20it%20apart/

examples of "hard spots" in that album

 

K, maybe this will shed some light. Now in addition to the clutch pressure plate "clunk clunk clunk" after shifting hard i'm getting more popping and clunking noises coming from elsewhere on hard acceleration. I jacked the car up and observed a slightly broken inner cv joint on 1 side but the outers and other side all look fine. The tie rods (or boots that come from steering rack) are both busted and have no grease or oil in them. Also, the bushings for the control arm next to the tire looks gone. Could this be causing the probelms? Are these DIY jobs or should i just bite the bullet? Thanks

 

did you also check your motor mounts?
the boots on the rack and pinion should be dry inside, no oil/grease goes in there.
your clunk is probably at least partially related to the bad control arm bushing which is fairly easy to replace,

 

Took it in today. Mechanic said it was missing bolts from the motor mounts from when the clutch was installed. All better now!