Anyone know any tricks for removing the power steering belt quickly and easily? I need to rule the PS pump out for a new engine noise I am getting. Thanks in advance.

 

This is how they explain it:
http://www.rd.com/home/home-and-gard...icle13006.html

A socket wrench set is used to tighten and loosen nuts and bolts, especially where space is limited. The set contains a variety of sockets that can fit onto either a spinner handle, also called a nut driver, or a ratchet handle. When you're working with hard-to-reach fittings, you can attach an extension to either handle.

Using a Socket Wrench

Snap a socket onto the ratchet handle, or onto an extension fitted to it. Tighten the nut or bolt by moving the handle forward and back. To loosen the nut or bolt, reverse the ratchet action by turning (or pushing) the button.

 

Ooooouuuuch! That was very good Wiking! Now ask me if that was actually helpful.

 

Hmm? Why not? (Forgot the 'open the hood' -sentence?)

The FSM (that you can access if u can) contains all. Plus I gave u lots of crayon pics to fill in. Like the No.4 below ... fits to socket no.13. Million ppl have managed their belts w/o access to any of those.

No. No videos coming...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23

 

'soundquest" .....it'd be a perfect world if I\WE\YOU\THEM could learn
how to do something we admitedly know nothing about the "easiest fastest way the first time.....a local auto parts stores repair manual is the best 20 dollarsanyone can "invest in their machine,but till then this may help.....
1.this car had 2 engine options(but the drive belts appear to be similar)
*each motor has the first outer most belt going to the"main" or "crank"pulley
and the a\c compressor and the highest "tensioner pulley"
*the second belt"inward"goes to the crank and the alternator
*the third belt(closest to the engine) goes to the crank and the waterpump
and the power steering pump and the lower of the 2 tensioners
*its best to remove the steering\waterpump\lower tensioner belt and the
a\c compressor\upper tensioner belt by loosening the 2 tensioners side bolt a little(these go back slightly tight@19-24 foot pounds)
and turning the adjustment bolt counterclockwise to loosen enough to remove belt (the adjuster is located on the top of upper tensioner and the bottom of lower tensioner these as well as the sidebolt should be 12mm or 14mm .....AND remove the alternator belt by finding the alternator tensioner
bolt and turn counterclockwise(loosen)(it has a locking bolt on its side,it goes back @12-15 foot lbs tite(not much)

 

after removing all three belts turn each pulley one by one by hand (except crank)and check for "wobble",high resistance,and noise or crunchiness then start and make sure its not something else making noise or even the crank pulley
(DONT run the car to long)since the alternator wont be spinning\charging and the water pump wont be spinning
but it would take quite a while on a hot day to overheat
...then if no noise, start installing belts (suspected pulley first)(spin tensioner adjuster bolts clockwise
and tighten belt to @ 1\4 inch deflection when
pushing kinda hard between 2 pulleys)and tighten tensioner side lock bolts to 19-24 ft lbs for the big 2 and 12-15 ft lbs
for that smaller alternator tensioner side bolt restart car
"the fast way would be to cut the belt out..lol since the steering belt is "inside"the outer 2 belts and will flop around
if thats the only one you remove to test pulleys

 

im trying to "read my fsm's drawings lines to determine which belt sits where as far as inner and middle and outer so i migt be wrong there but no matter ,secondly my fsm shows the upper and lower tensioner side lock bolt torque at
@19-24 foot lbs and the ALTERNATOR tensioner side lock bolt at @12-15 foot lbs as for belt deflection,a little loose(as long as they arent squealing ) is better than overtite which can damage pulley bearings my fsm has too much info on belt deflection between the 2 differentengines but they are similar so to sum it up *alternator belt(.24-.29 inch new)-(.31-.46 if its a used one)*a\c compressor belt(.18-.24 inch new)-(.34-.39 if its a used one) *steering and water pump belt(if vg sohc .31-.39 new\.44-.60 used) (if ve dohc .25-.29 new\.31-.47 used)
basically at least 1\4 inch plus a LITTLE ...i dont know get a book or search within maxima.org oh, and disclaimer,not liable,talk to my lawyer blah blah

 

Fastest way for removal is


...next gimme a link pls: one universal stretch over belt doing the work for all three...

 

Masochists do that. The easier solution (not for middle fingers) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23

 

i was gonna say something like that.... definitely the easiest way to remove a belt.(although i used a utility knife on a pesky a/c belt during my timing belt replacement...same difference)

 

On timing belt I always mark the belt and engine, sprockets with white marker, pull belt away (thus I can retrack all thats been done). Then copy the markings on the new T-belt. On installation, my markings should align with factory settings...

On accessory belts markings I seem to fail always ... next week all seem to be misaligned.

 

Serpentine drive system FTW and lose

 

Personally I don't know what the hubbub about actually removing the PS belt is all about.

If all you want to do is to check the PS, then slacken the PS belt tensioner a lot and the PS pump will simply not be rotated - QED

 

Man that looks like Danger & Co. product: if its the lazynstall stretchover -type, u might end as slingshot bullet into mexico?

 

I suggested just that on earlier thread, writeup puffed with pics... but now the quest is for easier (!?) method. Scissors, knife suggested. What else... shotgun?

 

psh, screw the shotgun. LIGHTSABER!

anyhow.. I don't see the issue here either unless the tensioner is stuck tight like my a/c one is/was. I had to put the belt on and then bolt the tensioner into place afterwards. Which is fine b/c the reason i removed the belt in the first place is because i had to replace the tensionser pulley, whose bearing was shot.

 

I am sorry, pls forgive me. Actually I am very nasty person ... this time I just could not contain myself and all the wicked garden hose wiking-sockets burst out. I havent had so fun in a veeery long time, but this fullsinful fun doesnt make right for Sound ... his question is legitimate and my attitude arrogant.

Whatever, seeing first time VGE belt jungle is an amazonian experience for anyone. And this is why I made a writeup, and basically just want to hlp yall ppl. Read its txt, rip it to pieces and complain - I will correct until everyone can understand how accessory belts are to be changed. But video. No. (Cape, its your turn

 

nothing to be sorry for... didn't mean to make it sound like there was, if I did. I just like lightsabers that and I didn't understand what all the hooplah was about, seeing as my uncle got all 3 of my belts off in under 5 minutes. And he doesn't even own a nissan.

 

All is forgiven Wiking...the temptation was too great -- I get that. I would have to agree though that a light saber would be most effective...not to mention the most enjoyable of all methods. I plan on getting under the hood tomorrow (under the whole car as well) and will inform you all of my success/failure.

Cheers mates

 

Yes but your uncle is a viet vet, grn beret... Service time is limited while 'kong is peppering your jeep. And man, you got his blood in ya veins. (Actually belts are nonissue when toolbag is full of worn sockets.)

A nasty person like me always seeks a chance to throw glossy wiking spears... here the target agitated the hunting nature, was too delicious. Then the target was like ouch (thks to greeny cleanup = nosee). This is the reason why all bearded wiking warriors escaped to sea: mama always forbid to play with the spears...

Whatever, suggestions to my belts swap -writeup will be considered. Video?

 

ummm ok...

well i DO have an annoying noise on the belt-side of the engine that i'd like to track down... so i may do a video for you.

 

does any one now how to replace the power steering pump on a 1990 nissan maxima

 

3 bolts through the pulley, one really hard to find bolt on the other side of the pump. then just pick where exactly you want to disconnect the hoses (flare fittings, or banjo bolts, or slip on hoses depending where you undo them)

 

Yes.