Hey guys! I tried to look this up on the forum bit without luck. I am planning to change my CV axles pretty soon on my 5 speed 98 Maxima SE (136k). I know that normally people would drain the gear oil from the transmission and refill it after installing the CV axles. However, I just replaced the oil with synthetic Redline 90 a couple of months ago, so changing it again
seems excessive (and expensive).

So here is my question - I think I read somewhere that "if you jack up the car correctly, you don't have to drain the oil". Is there any truth to this? If I put the front of the car high on two jack stands would the tranny oil go to the back of the transmission and not leak out when I pull out the CV axles?

 

How hard is it to remove the axle seals? I know that the new seals should be basically hammered in. Would I need a special tool, or I can just pull them out with a screwdriver or something?

 

1. You have to drain the tranny fluid. There is no other SAFE way to do the job. If you just changed the fluid and it looks clean reuse it.
2. Axle seals are not hard to remove. A flat head screwdriver will do the trick. Make sure you always use NEW seals every time you swap an axle.

 

I'm changing mine right now, a 97 5spd. Per motorvate's how-to, you're supposed to pull the gear indicator switch (like a plug in the bottom of the tranny case on the driver's side), and once you do, there will be plenty coming out. I jacked up the nose of the car and put it on jackstands behind the front wheels pretty high up, and still had lots come out.

Bad timing, but you'll likely have to re-fill the gear oil. If you catch it in a clean vessel, just pour it back in and no harm done.

 

In case you don't have it, here's motorvate's how-to link:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

 

I'm having trouble getting my driver's side axle back into the tranny. Won't seem to go in. There seems to be a "pin" inside the tranny blocking the way through. Anyone else seen this? Btw, I had both axles out at once--don't know if that matters.

 

Nope it doesn't matter if both are out. Grab a rubber mallet and tab 1 axle end jently. It always worked for me for all the cars I've owned.

 

No need to use new axle seals every time you pull the axle. It's more time and expense than necessary, if the current seals are fine.

Don't use the switch as a drain plug, that's not what it's meant for. There's a good chance that you'll break it as well, when removing it.

The trans has a drain plug. It's there for a reason.

Easiest way to reinstall circlip-retained axles is to use them like a slide hammer on reinstallation. Generally pop in with one try.

 

Please explain this concept, for someone that has never seen a slide hammer.

 

Seat the axle into the diff as much as you can just by pushing, then grab the threaded end where the axle nut goes, pull back a little, and slam it towards the trans. Best way I can describe it, really.

Slide hammer:

 

also ... a slide hammer is used for a few things to give you an idea. to remove dents from metal, they drill a small hole in the skin, tap the slider into it and the backwards thrust pulls the dent. also used to break down ignitions, but you dind't hear that from me

 

Never done a backwards thrust before...must be some freaky girls up in MI

 

Pmohr ... you gotta try it then mate! hehehehehe


LOL ... mo = missouri! hahahahaha

what i mean is ... you pull the slider back and when it hits the stopper, it's the "thrust" i mentioned! but i'll give consideration to the other too ....

 

I was reading this thread and I was wondering why the NEED to drain the fluid? I think its a good Idea if the fluid needs to be changed any way,"kill two birds with a stone and a half" kind of thing ,but if the fluid is new, why drain it?
usaully if you jack up only one side of the car and remove the axle you get very little ,if any, fluid loss. Of course, if you are using a lift or the front of the car is elevated evenly your gonna get a lot more fluid loss
I am not one for "shotcuts" and I am completly for maintenance, however , I evaluate every situation individualy and if I am not mistaken Redline products are pricey and its really new...sounds like a good situation not to drain to me
Hope this helps

 

you'd have to tip the car a LOT to not get any leak when pulling an axle. I suppose it can be done, but .... just catch the lost fluid and replace it when you're done. and yes, Redline is expensive! (but SO worth it)

 

you dont have to tip it as much as you might think, and I guess you could catch it ??? I was thinking more along the lines of topping it off when you are done...1/2 a quart is a lot cheaper than 3 .

 

I'd say that you loose at least 1 - 1.5 qts when you pull an axle. If you are going to "tip it", it'll need to be at a pretty good lean to not loose any at all. Seems sortta senseless to me to try not to loose any fluid at all. Just pull the axle and catch what is coming out. Not a difficult operation here by any means. You put a pan under the axle so when the fluid runs out, it drips into the pan.

 

Hell yea there some freaky ones here

 

Getting the seals out were easy for my friend and I but we couldn't get the passenger side axle seal back in without dropping the transmission.

 

you have a good point about catching it, i just wasnt thinking of that at the time.
I dont mean to argue but it just so happens last weekend I did a drivers axle on the ground and I actuallyl didn't loose any fluid. I did have it jacked up alomst to the extreme of a 2 1/2 ton floor jack though. I had it up that high to make it a little easier to work on( Im getting old).It just works out that no fluid comes out .

 

are you certain it was full to begin with? I say do it if it makes it easier, but i've always lost some fluid. maybe it's technique!?!

 

Thanks a lot guys for all the good ideas!!! I also have to change my lower control arms, for which the car has to be level. So if I do all of this at the same time, I'll just drain whatever comes out and then pour it back in when done. On the other hand, tilting the car enough has the big advantage that I don't have to deal with oil dripping all over the place and makign a big mess... Hm, I guess I'll decide which way to go on the spot and go from there. I'll try to post some pics as well to maybe help out the other noobs out there.

 

Car doesn't have to be level it just has to have the suspension under load when the final tightening is done.

It was already covered but I also want to say for others NOT to use the plastic p/n switch to drain the gear oil. You risk breaking it and it will not seal as well the more you have it on and off.

 

It's sad that we see one of those 'i broke my drain plug' or 'why did nissan make the drain plug out of such brittle plastic' threads every so often. A little common sense is missing around here, methinks.

 

^^^ maybe it's because of the Motorvate site .... or my write up But, I agree, use the DRAIN plug for what it was intended. Get a 12mm box end on it and pull it to drain gear oil.