That's right. Just tell me what's wrong with this junk *** nissan and I'll send you $20 via paypal. Must fix the problem, naturally.

This car has been doing this since it was under warranty, and all Nissan did was change some sensors out and didn't fix the problem. Now it's just got so bad I don't even drive the car. Only code that throws is an EGR code, and no, I haven't tried to fix that yet, but I can't imagine that keeping the car from starting, or starting hard like it does.

Belt started squalling like that after I put an alternator on the car. It goes away after a few seconds of idle, normally.

http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...aximamovie.flv

1997 Nissan Maxima SE

Just fix it!

 

Check the tension in the belts. Idler pulley might be bad.

Seems like the timing is wierd

 

fuel filter, sparks, that noise from the belt all you have to do is tighten the tensioner and put some belt greese on it.

does it drive fine or is it just starts that are hard?

 

no speakers right now, so I can't hear...but many starting problems are caused by bad grounds. sometimes adding grounding wires helps, other times it's a poor ground between the starter and tranny or tranny and engine.

Crank and cam position sensors also play a big role in proper starting...

also, when you're low on fuel, it helps to let the fuel pump "prime" and build up pressure. turn the key to "on" and wait a couple seconds before starting.

could there be a vacuum leak?

I'll post later once I hear the vid.

 

Changed fuel filter already, put new plugs in it a few days ago, tightened the idler pulley and belts, still squals, now louder than ever. Never tried any grease, but have thought about it.

Car runs like a champ when it's started. Couldn't ask for a better driving car.

Oh yea, also added another ground wire from battery post to starter.

 

For one, in order for that belt to be making that much noise, its nowhere near tight enough. second a clogged egr down pipe will cause it to be a little tuff starting. What I would do is tighten that belt & remove the egr down pipe and give it a good cleaning along with removing and cleaning the iddle air control assembly. then I would give the throttle body a cleaning while your in there.

 

try grounding the starter to the body, not the battery. I had a starting problem due to poor grounding and the only fix was taking out the tranny to sand the mating surfaces between it and the engine...grounding cables didn't help, but that fixed it all!

I also had weird start/idle problems due to improper adjustment TPS...is it possible your TPS needs to be re-calibrated/adjusted?

 

I've tightened the belt as much as I could...I've actually worried I've overtightened it at times. I've changed a million alternators and this is the only one I've had this happen with.

I've thought about the EGR as the problem, since it does throw the code, but I didn't think it would cause hard starting as all it does is recirculate exhaust gas.

Not sure exactly where the IAC is on these cars, as I haven't really messed with it much. I cleaned the TB a while back and had the whole assembly apart the other day and it looked decently clean. I've got some MAF cleaner, I figured I'd try that out if no one had any other ideas.

If I have to remove the tranny to sand a surface to get a good ground, I'm going to Nissan and kicking someones ***, just for good measure.

 

Your belt isn't tight. Plan on wearing out the bearings of that alt. if it isn't fixed. Is your computer throwing any codes?

 

You aren't tightening the belt correctly. Loosen the bolt on the idler pulley (15mm if I remember correctly) before tightening the tensioner. Re-tighten the bolt once done.

 

I would remove the drive belts and see if the noise goes away.
the fact that you said it got louder AFTER you tightend the belts makes me think that there is a bad bearing(thats what the noise sound likes from here)probably the tensioner but could be a/c clutch , p/s ,or alternater.
if the noise goes away after remving the belts ,replace them one at a time until the noise comes back...
also while you have everything off , check for excessive play in all of the pullys
hope this helps...

 

Haha, I can't blame you. Kinda ridiculous if that's the solution to the problem...but it really isn't THAT hard. If you set aside a saturday, you should be able to do it. Even an almost n00b could do it in a weekend. If it comes down to that, and you want to try it...PM me and I'll help you out. It's alot easier when you know what to expect and what to do.

I still need to hear this video! Will post again later...

 

Alright, thanks guys. I'm not too worried about the pulley at the time, but I'll probably mess with it in a minute anyhow, as I'm bored...

Mow, I'll keep you in mind, but I'll be pissed off...

 

I went through a similar experience - squealing on start-up, got progressively worse. I changed the idler pulley and serpentine belt (necessary), but still had a squeal upon start up, much less than before, but still enough to drive me nuts.

Turns out that the lower alternator pivot bolt / custom nut was missing from the alternator. the last person who worked on it must have not tightened it. I noticed other on the org discovered a similar problem. So without that long pivot bolt, the alternator spun out of true, and eventually destroyed the bearing.

Not good news for you, it's a PITA job, and I'm still suffering b/c after moving my a/c compressor all over to replace the alty, I pulled out the hot lead to the a/c compressor clutch and don't know where it goes.

If this is the correct answer, I'll pass on the $20 if you or someone can just tell me where that darn wire connects!

 

Just an idea. I have had a case on my 3rd gen that the car started difficult. In the end of the day my battery needed a good charge. It did turn the engine, did not sound like a low battery and measured 12.??V (can remember exact value) but the battery was not giving enough punch for a easy start. Put your car's battery on a charger for 15-24hours( as long as you can) and see if it makes a difference. I know it does not sound like the battery.


Good luck

 

"I would remove the drive belts and see if the noise goes away."
+1

 

had this^^^issue for the past week. Put a Nissan battery in today at work and starts beautiful. Would only give me a weak start after sitting 4+ hours.

back to the original issue, I agree that belt needs to be tightened or passibley even loosened if its rediculously tight. And I also had that starting issue. I have an egr code and I'm sure my tube is clogged solid, but I just bumped the idle up a little and its okay for now until I get a chance to pull the tube. The believe the theory of the egr causing problems is the engine is designed to have the extra air flow from the egr and without the flow the engine gets less air, like a restriction in and air intake.

 

try a new battery, then pm me for my paypal id








jaykay, i hate to see a fellow white 97 se in trouble.

 

For the starting issue, check the connections for the CKPS REF, had an issue like that for a while.

Long story short, I'm an idiot.

 

tension bearing.

 

I can't believe this is a serious thread but yeah, it's a belt squealing.

If the bearing on the tensioner has gone bad enough then it's possible that the pulley is cocking to the side and rubbing against the tensioner rod itself (the vertical rod) and that could be making noise too. Happened to me this spring.

 

OMG! now I know why people kept posting about the belts! That's a completely different video with sound, lol...

Anyway, the starting problem sound like a combination of things.

IMO, here it is:

First, it sounds like bad grounding (or maybe CPS). If you pay attention, around the middle of the cranking, you can hear the starter sort of stutter. It's almost like it gets punched in the stomach. This is what mine did due to poor grounds. The only difference is, yours did it once...mine would do it 2-4 times and take even longer to finally start.

Second, it cranked for a while because it had to build up fuel pressure. This is common with a low fuel level. (could also just be because of the starter stuttering.)

What to do:
- run a butt-load of ground cables. (engine to body, tranny to body, starter to engine, starter to body, etc.)
- remove the starter and sand the mating surfaces between it and the tranny.
- pull the crank position sensor that's on the flywheel and clean it off (mine was COVERED in metal shavings).
- turn key on and wait a couple seconds before starting. this builds up fuel pressure and allows for quicker starts.


The idle seemed fine after the initial start (and you say it runs well), so I'd say the MAF, IACV, TPS, etc. are probably fine...I place my money on poor grounds, or possibly a crank or cam position sensor.

 

check your crank pulley seal maybe oil is leaking out going on the belt causin it to squeak

 

quoted for future reference....

 

Lots of good ideas, I'm going to try a new battery, although my battery shows a bit over 12v on my DMM when the car isn't running. That's pretty much the only thing I haven't tried, as I've tried grounding more cables, unless more than two are needed...if so, wtf was Nissan thinking? And why is this is an issue for some and not for others. Where do you run the grounds? Just keep running grounds from starter to chasis or what?

I always wait for fuel pressure to build up. I got used to it with my other toys that had aftermarket pumps and you could hear them primer.

I was really hoping that someone had this identical problem and fixed it with one thing instead of me having to try numerous items.

EDIT: fixed the belt btw. Finally got out and messed with the car a bit last night. I guess it was just a bit loose, although you could feel no obvious slack....weird. Oh yea, already pulled the MAF and all off and cleaned everything, even the MAF, and still hesitates to start as it did before. On a good note, it's firing without me having to give it gas, just takes a bit and kinda hunts for idle for a split second after starting.

 

Run more than two ground cables, run them to the places I listed, and make sure they are GOOD grounds (bare metal).

What about the other two things...tried those?

Hunt's for idle= dirty IACV

wanna make another vid, since there is no squeeling now? maybe a couple different starts?

 

[quote=97Max4Me;
EDIT: fixed the belt btw. Finally got out and messed with the car a bit last night. I guess it was just a bit loose, although you could feel no obvious slack....weird. Oh yea, already pulled the MAF and all off and cleaned everything, even the MAF, and still hesitates to start as it did before. On a good note, it's firing without me having to give it gas, just takes a bit and kinda hunts for idle for a split second after starting.[/quote]

please update if you figure this out, I have the same problem with the starting and the same results after cleaning t/b and idle control...exactly!
thanks

 

Sometimes a battery can show roughly the correct voltage but can not deliver the current, the punch needed. You maybe just try and give it a long charge with a car battery charger before you buy a new battery.