Mine should be waiting for me when I get home from work today. I've been waiting on them for over 2 weeks, BTW. Not sure if the accompanying instructions will specify this or not, so I will go ahead and ask while I am killing time at work:

When you tighten up everything should the car be in the air with the load off of the bars or on the ground with the suspension under load?

 

I don't think it matters much. But I think they are easier to install while the car is at ride height. ie... tires on a set of ramps vs tires hanging down from the car being on jacks

 

personally i always final torque when the car is on the ground.

 

that for the big bushings only? or for the lower nut on the endlinks too? I actually just swapped my gxe swaybar for an SE swaybar today and it started raining and i was in a hurry so i just torqued the bit bushing nut/bolts when the car was on jackstands... given how much better the car feels around a corner, i'm not sure it's as important as, say, parallel link or LCA bushings to tighten it on the ground. Preferrably, yea I would have.. it just slipped my mind due to the rain.

 

Just got done installing and I can definitely say "not bad!" The tires squeal around corners when I lay into it easier, but it definitely feels more solid.

 

are your blehmco links welded on? did matt weld them on himself or were they on there before you moved?

 

No welding necessary. They work just like the stock units, but they are beefier.

 

oh... people have had them require welding in the past. mebbe ask matt about it? there was a thread on here in the spring iirc about it.

 

Nah no welding is necessary on the Blehmco sway bar links.

 

first question, mounts for sway bars should be tightened "under load".
second question, the Blehmco links do not need to be welded in...but it is a good idea.

 

No welding necessary but it's recommended.

 

The links should come with brackets to weld on. I didnt weld mine on but the brackets are much beefier than stock. You would most likely have to cut the old ones off the weld on the new ones but if you do a little cutting, you may be able to weld the new ones on in conjunction with the old ones. That being said, my factory ones didnt break or bend as of yet.

 

They will, trust me. I had a place just weld plates to the stock mounts. That worked for me.

 

I picked up my links second hand. The L-brackets were not part of the package. If the stock mounts end up breaking I'm sure it won't be a big deal to get some from Matt (or make my own) and have them welded up.

 

i think that should be next on my mod list. just installed Matt's RSTB in my car today. feels a little stiffer now in the back. do you have his Stage II lower tie bar? if not, get it. i think its worth it. then again, all of Matt's mods are worth every penny.

 

No Ifs, they will.

 

Same here, i just put on Blehmco RSTB on and i like it very much. U have to go to a parking lot and drive a lil crazy before and after. I cant wait for my LTB II .

 

no need for that. but i will try it either way. i did enjoy it on the highway today in the morning. im speechless! invest in his Stage II LTB, i have it and i noticed a big difference.

 

I've installed the same ST front/rear sport springs and swaybars and Blemco RSTB on GR-2's (1990 Max) and I'm curious if you were to go to a parking lot and do same circles to determine if it's neutral, oversteering, or understeering @ a moderate speed are you tires squealing? I noticed the my D21 p'up B4 the adjustable swaybars were installed just turning and driving in a parking lot you would hear the wheels squeal. After the Nissan Motorsport swaybars were installed I never heard any tire squeal ever again. Plus I was able to adjust them to a neutral state, so that the wheels would equally drift in cornering. It worked like a charm in those backroads/mountain roads of The Big Island (Hawaii). It was normal for me to chase motorcyles down the mountain....and they never could lose me!

 

Here's a pic of my new toys before installing them. I wish I had been given a color choice, lime green really doesn't go with the color scheme of the car...I've seen all sorts of other colors of ST bars on various Maximas.

 

you can always just repaint them and wait another few days before putting it on so they are moar sexier blacker-colored... (<- trademarking that nonsensical phrase)

 

That is STs current color scheme.

 

ST switched to the fugly green a few years ago when ricers started buying their stuff. about 4/5 years ago, they did a charcoal grey that looked nice.
I have the same green on my 240 too. ugh.

 

i just noticed something on the front bar... the holes seem to be parallel to the ground intsead of perpendicular... does this bar use straight links instead of the 90* links on a stock swaybar?

 

They use straight links w/ donut bushings on both ends (just like what goes through the control arm)

 

I also found it interesting how they ignore the stock connection on the wheel hub assemblies for the RSB and make you install new mounting plates.

 

awesome.. i hate the stock link design....

do they include all the hardware with them or is it literally just the bars?

 

Everything is included (except for Matt's links, of course).

 

i have the charcoal grey on mine. i ordered it from Brian like 2 years ago with the red bushings.

 

Guess you and I got pretty lucky getting our s a few yrs ago... that green is too much for me! Hey I like your Blemco lower brace...will it clear headers such as Pacesetters?

 

thanks, we did get lucky. the clearance issue you would have to ask Matt on that one cuz i wouldn't know.

 

Dunno if it'll clear headers on a 3 gen, but they don't clear them on 4-5 gens.

... then again, I wouldn't touch pace$hitter with a 10 ft pole... unless it was with a cutting torch.

 

Guess I'll have to not purchase your lower brace setup... Cause I've got Cattman headers for the 03 Maxima, just testing out Polydyne's Cobra black ceramic coating on My D21's Pacesetter headers B4 I coat the Cattman Header with the same color or their 3000 degree titanium ceramic coating. My plan's for the 3rd are with the only headers I can buy and have a warranty! They're better than the Oem logs and my heads are set up to flow, I need the exhaust out as fast as possible and the log isn't gonna cut it. I know your stand on the Pacesetter brand but I've had pretty good luck so far in the cars I've installed their exhaust products on...If there were any problems (maybe twice) the problem has handled rather well and quickly.....

 

Wait until you install the headers for the VG... hint. they're designed for the Z31 and "modified" to fit the Maxima. They simply don't fit.

I've found their products to be hit-and-miss over the years, and the pacesetter header on VG Maximas is a miss.

But that's okay. try it yourself. don't listen to us who've been around for ten years and seen this same type of thread come up over and over again.