Doing the trans fluid flush thing... well, I started the trans fluid flush thing.

Here's the reassurance I'm looking for:

The fluid screen mounting bolts?... well, if you've done your own tranny service you know that one of those bolts ain't a bolt, it's a nut on a stud. Mine snapped. Initially the stud just spun. Couldn't get the nut off. After a whole bunch of "F"ing with it, I finally just vice-gripped it and snapped the stud myself.

Do you guys suppose what's left of the stud will be alright staying in the tranny case (i.e. in the hole)? I mean the friggin thing wasn't coming out with the nut so I'm thinking it ain't coming out just sitting in there. Also, I'm thinking that even if it does fond its way out, the magnets will catch it up. I'm also thinking I'm not concerned about there being one less mounting point for the screen on accounta there were orginally like 12.

What's yall's feelings about this?

Here's the info I need:

The sealant that goes on or with the tranny pan bolts. Does the sealant go on the bolts or does it go in the bolt holes or does it matter?

 

How much of the bolt is left? If you only broke off a few inches, it'll stay in place. It's lodged between the valve body and the trans case, it can't go anywhere.

Don't think of it just as a fastener for the screen, it goes all the way through and secures the valve body together. It's extremely unlikely, but it's possible that you could have some issues without that clamping force there; fluid crossing into the wrong channel within the VB.

Did you get new bolts? They have the sealant on them from the factory. If not, don't worry about it. I never bothered getting new bolts, or sealing up the old bolts. As long as you have a good bead of RTV on the pan itself, it shouldn't leak.

Personally, I'd replace that bolt and nut that broke. It's only another half dozen bolts to drop the VB, and you'll get a lot more fluid out that way too. I've actually got that long bolt sitting on my desk (it looks like the right one, anyway, and smells like ATF).

 

mohr,

Honestly, I have no idea how much stud is left inside as I never got it out far enough to know or guestimate. I can tell you that I sheared off probably 3/8" and the rest is left in the tranny.

I haven't looked at the FSM... I'm tired and I've been drinking.... upon removing the VB bolts, does it (the VB) just drop out as a whole unit?... i.e. remove VB bolts, drop VB, remove broken stud, reinstall VB... is it that easy? If so, I'm in the perfect sitch... the car's in the air, the trans pan is still off and all's I'd have to do it pull the screen again and drop the VB... tomorrow that is.

Assuming this is an on-the-garage-floor deal, I'm thinking I'd replace the stud and nut thing with an appropriately sized bolt... I've never been a big fan of the stud/nut thing... not even on big block valve covers.

 

Yes, a dozen bolts and the entire VB assembly (upper, lower, and spacer plate) comes out together.

It's not a stud, it's actually a bolt that comes in from the top of the VB and just has a nut on the bottom.

The bolt is 3 1/4" long, so there's more than half of the bolt still in place.

 

So with that length still in the tranny what's your call of removing it or letting it stay?

Also, in your opinion, is my theory that I can replace the "upside down" bolt with the right-side-up bolt plausible?

 

It's broken regardless of length, even though it's a bit more of a PITA, even I would replace the bolt.

Not really, I wouldn't do that. If you ever need to replace the screen again, imagine trying to thread a bolt from the bottom into a free-floating nut on the top of the VB...ain't gonna happen. There are no actual threads anywhere for the bolt or the nut other than eachother.

 

Aahh, I see now... no wonder it just spun... so what battens the bolt head at the top and why do you spose mine broke loose and spun? Who designs this s@*t?!!

To replace it, I certainly don't have to order some obscure part thing do I? I'd really like to get this thing put back together in the next couple of days.

I can just go get an appropriate, say grade 8 and be done right? Or is there some crazy, Nissan-only head on that friggin thing?

I swear, the more I dig into this thing the more I'm thinking cast iron and carbs are the way to go.

 

Actually I don't really remember what holds the head of the bolt from spinning. I always thought it was just a nut and a stud until i pulled my VB, and found out it was a bolt. Might just be friction between the bolt head and the housing of the trans, dunno.

Nothing special about it. Second pic sucks but head of the bolt says 7, one dot. 10mm head, 6x1.0 threads. Looks to be 78mm overall length, threaded portion alone is 17 or 18mm long. I believe this is the correct bolt, but I picked one at random from my bolt drawer (though I do have a very high accuracy in determining what bolts are from what/where, so this should be it).

 

Sweet...

I'll be delving deeply into my tranny in the morning.

I agree, I'd feel much better having replaced a broken thing than to allow a thing to remain broken.

Thanks for the help and the talk-through.

I'll let you know how things go.

... but for now it's back to Gin and Tonic.

 

Gin and tonic? Need to get some real drinking going on, get a few shots of Jack Daniels in ya.

 

wild turkey + transmission work =