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Car Drives Like Crap - Please Help.

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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 02:40 AM
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Car Drives Like Crap - Please Help.

I've had an 00 maxima for 2+ years now. It always ran well, although a few parts did die on me - most recently the starter which was replaced.
Anyway, right after I got it back from the shop, I noticed that the car lost a lot of power. On cold starts, the engine would need roughly 3-5 minutes to warm up or else the car would twitch when I accelerate - even on first gear. On extreme cold days, the engine dies right after start if I don't keep the gas pedal pressed slightly for a little while. On the highway, it doesn't accelerate as it used to when I want to pass someone and need to speed up. Furthermore, I got a P0135 engine code. Does anyone have any ideas?
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 02:43 AM
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How many miles does it have?
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 03:01 AM
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Thanks for the reply.
It currently has 107k miles.
GXE Model, 5 Sp Transmission
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 06:32 AM
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P0135 code=upstream oxygen sensor heater fault9right bank).Hope this helps.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 07:23 AM
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MAF may be shot, too.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 12:00 PM
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Can you define 'twitch'?

The cold start issue could be IACV.

And as Progress said, the MAF could be failing as well. You have to remove the intake to get to the starter, they may have tossed parts around, damaging it.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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Mass air flow sensor would be my guess, since i was experiencing similar problems on cold start-up and driving in general. Ebay prices are $150 or lower while local shop prices seem to be closer to 400. I believe the replacement requires a ecu reprogram or reset as well. I drive a 2000 gle, had it replaced at 120k or so and my problems were solved. Dunno if this will be your solution though. . .
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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Btw. . .

I experienced lurches on cold starts while in first gear(auto) Seemed as though the car didnt want to drive at all without being warmed up. Power loss was very noticeable throughout all speeds and gears
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by joemax2000
Mass air flow sensor would be my guess, since i was experiencing similar problems on cold start-up and driving in general. Ebay prices are $150 or lower while local shop prices seem to be closer to 400. I believe the replacement requires a ecu reprogram or reset as well. I drive a 2000 gle, had it replaced at 120k or so and my problems were solved. Dunno if this will be your solution though. . .
That's crazy.

You can get a brand new one for under $100 from Dave B.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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I had the max for about a month before i had it replaced. Paid local shop prices and had no idea about doing any of it my self at the time. Hindsight = 20/20
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by joemax2000
Btw. . .

I experienced lurches on cold starts while in first gear(auto) Seemed as though the car didnt want to drive at all without being warmed up. Power loss was very noticeable throughout all speeds and gears
That may be due to the intake manifold gasket. My car (5-spd) bucks when cold but is fine once warmed up. I've learned that it's due to the gasket expanding.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Can you define 'twitch'?

The cold start issue could be IACV.

And as Progress said, the MAF could be failing as well. You have to remove the intake to get to the starter, they may have tossed parts around, damaging it.
Yeah, what I mean is that the card jerks very sharply on acceleration - kind of pulling me back and forth a few secs before it settles. This seems to happen on cold starts - although I usualy wait 1-2 minutes before I begin driving. It's almost as if there's something wrong with the transmission or the engine choking. There's no noise from the ordinary, but there is definitely a loss in power from all gears.
One more thing that I forgot to mention, the gas mileage is terrible since I found this problem.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by d40sithui
Yeah, what I mean is that the card jerks very sharply on acceleration - kind of pulling me back and forth a few secs before it settles. This seems to happen on cold starts - although I usualy wait 1-2 minutes before I begin driving. It's almost as if there's something wrong with the transmission or the engine choking. There's no noise from the ordinary, but there is definitely a loss in power from all gears.
One more thing that I forgot to mention, the gas mileage is terrible since I found this problem.
That sounds like what my car does when cold. The colder it is, the worse it is and the longer it lasts. I'm pretty sure the motor is running lean due to air getting in around the gasket before it heats up and expands.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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yah mine does the same thing only when its really cold and if i go to second or 3rd gear before its properly warmed up. After the temp needle passes the first line, it stops.
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 12:32 PM
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So it seems that this is a normal thing then?
I hope so because I do not want to spend anymore money this month to repair it.
This morning, it was about 40 degrees out - had the same problem after waiting 2-3 minutes for the engine to warm. The reason I posted is because I did not have this problem in winter 06 or 07. Perhaps shes starting to show her age =/
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 12:47 PM
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Sometimes you can take out the maf and clean it with carb cleaner and a q tip.Be careful tho.You need to know what u are doing!!!i have fixed a few by cleaning them
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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http://forums.maxima.org/4524568-post20.html
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Progress
I'm pretty sure the motor is running lean due to air getting in around the gasket before it heats up and expands.
Is that overall a bad thing? could it damage anything if the air is seeping into the engine from a leak in the maf tubeing or some other strange place?

I ask because the other day i popped my hood open and take a look at my air filter and i notice it was extremely clean aside from 1 giant dust ball, i litterally banged the filter on the floor, the dust-ball fell off and i put it back and the filter still looks brand new, extremely new. its getting me worried now lol


Oh last time i replaced it was in november...makes me wonder
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dewd
Is that overall a bad thing? could it damage anything if the air is seeping into the engine from a leak in the maf tubeing or some other strange place?

I ask because the other day i popped my hood open and take a look at my air filter and i notice it was extremely clean aside from 1 giant dust ball, i litterally banged the filter on the floor, the dust-ball fell off and i put it back and the filter still looks brand new, extremely new. its getting me worried now lol


Oh last time i replaced it was in november...makes me wonder
My car has been doing it for a while and I don't seem to have any consequential side effects. My guess is it's only air that is getting past the gaskets and any microscopic particles in the engine bay at the time will have a negligible effect. Of course I could be wrong and anyone else could chime in at this point.

The leak I am referring to has nothing to do with the MAF.
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:49 AM
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This air leak thing actually makes sense...
I'd like to test it, but the linked post implied that there are "gaskets" (more than one). Being a novice to all this, can someone tell me where to find these "gaskets." I do have a BERK intake system installed early 2007.
Today it was again ~40 degrees out. I started the car @ 9:14AM, let her sit until a bit after 9:16AM. I tried to accelerate and right away I knew this was going to be a rough ride. First gear hesitated - ALOT. There were jerking, twitching, bucking, you name it - more importantly it was way underpowered. The engine just didn't idle well, it would rise and fall and often it would rise and fall quickly. After a quarter of a mile, the engine light started flashing. I drove back to my house and using a reader I got P0300. I cleared the code, restarted the car, and let her warm some more and drove to work. The light has not come back on (after 35 miles) and it drove quite well the whole way.
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by d40sithui
This air leak thing actually makes sense...
I'd like to test it, but the linked post implied that there are "gaskets" (more than one). Being a novice to all this, can someone tell me where to find these "gaskets." I do have a BERK intake system installed early 2007.
Today it was again ~40 degrees out. I started the car @ 9:14AM, let her sit until a bit after 9:16AM. I tried to accelerate and right away I knew this was going to be a rough ride. First gear hesitated - ALOT. There were jerking, twitching, bucking, you name it - more importantly it was way underpowered. The engine just didn't idle well, it would rise and fall and often it would rise and fall quickly. After a quarter of a mile, the engine light started flashing. I drove back to my house and using a reader I got P0300. I cleared the code, restarted the car, and let her warm some more and drove to work. The light has not come back on (after 35 miles) and it drove quite well the whole way.
It would be the gasket between your upper intake manifold and the lower intake manifold.
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
It would be the gasket between your upper intake manifold and the lower intake manifold.
I just called the dealership and explained to them that I want a "Intake Manifold Gasket" replaced. They quoted me for $1048. Holy Christ. Is this accurate?
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by d40sithui
I just called the dealership and explained to them that I want a "Intake Manifold Gasket" replaced. They quoted me for $1048. Holy Christ. Is this accurate?
Parts and labor?

Sounds right if they thought you meant the manifold itself.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/14010a-...-p-193607.html
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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Would it be hard for me to buy the gasket and do the work myself?
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by joemax2000
Mass air flow sensor would be my guess, since i was experiencing similar problems on cold start-up and driving in general. Ebay prices are $150 or lower while local shop prices seem to be closer to 400. I believe the replacement requires a ecu reprogram or reset as well. I drive a 2000 gle, had it replaced at 120k or so and my problems were solved. Dunno if this will be your solution though. . .
If you paid $400 they sold you an 02-03 and you paid tooooo muchhhh... they dance in your
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by d40sithui
Would it be hard for me to buy the gasket and do the work myself?
Not really, if you like getting your hands dirty. Put aside half a day for your first time, and be sure to take a lot of pictures and/or label everything that you take off.
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Wierd I had this happen to my car tonite. It suttered when I gave it gas and the check engine light was flashing but didn't stay on. After I drove around the corner it was ok. I figure it might be that I only drive the car 3 or 4 times a month and I may need to drive it more. I got 73000 miles and its an 03 6 speed and I am only putting like 5000 miles a year on it now that I have a company vehicle...........
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by boondoxmax
Wierd I had this happen to my car tonite. It suttered when I gave it gas and the check engine light was flashing but didn't stay on. After I drove around the corner it was ok. I figure it might be that I only drive the car 3 or 4 times a month and I may need to drive it more. I got 73000 miles and its an 03 6 speed and I am only putting like 5000 miles a year on it now that I have a company vehicle...........
It shouldn't misfire that badly without a reason, just because you rarely drive it.
Old Feb 11, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
It shouldn't misfire that badly without a reason, just because you rarely drive it.
I am hoping maybe bad gas or water in line
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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good stuff
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by maxion20's
good stuff
You going to post ***** to 15? Seriously, use the newbie thread. That's why it's there.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 08:31 AM
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Hello Fellas,

First Of All Wish You All A Mery Christmas.

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima, with California Emission with Milage around 112k. It has the Service Engine Soon Light on since last couple of months but some 10 days back it has started behaving weird. Whenever the car engine is cold (in the morning or in the evening) it kind of misfires, so badly that I can feel the vibrations.

I went to Autozone and the read the OBDII Error code as : P0135 O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor1.


Now,
I am an absolute begineer and I am not very sure where can I find the Sensor Bank 1 Sensor1 in the car.

Very basic question: Is it under the hood or under the car floor? I mean do I need to go under the car to fix it or can I do it by opening the hood.

I hope you are getting what I am trying to see. I have seen a few diagrams which tells about the location of all the sensors but I am not sure if its under the car or under the hood. If its under the hood I will try by myself otherwise I will have to see some car mechanic.

My Observation: The RPM of the car in Idle state is just about 1k rpm and when I put it on drive and keep it at halt then it drops to almost 750 rpm.
Is it something to do with the Spark Plugs / Ignition Coils?


Pls Pls Help Me out of this.


Thanks in Advance
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